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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-19-2006, 05:37 PM   #20656
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Sweet, be sure to post info about your 1st and successive runs with that 12X!!!
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Old 09-20-2006, 09:10 AM   #20657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Tim Potter: know what you mean...see the Corally 12X forum...somewhere it states that they are releasing the new kits with revised front ends, like the Associated style. Also, the 12X does have the aluminum arms, which would probably hold up nicely after any crash...not that you need it- I have seen you drive and you're the best in South Florida as far as i'm concerned. The only issues I worry about is the Fiberglass t-bar. Hopefully that wont snap like a twig, like Associated L4's. BUt the rest of the car looks like the best 12 scale to hit the market, yet. No upgrades needed with this kit, i belive. THe only problem is that will they work well on asphalt! We run on asphalt here in south florida and need kits that will work on asphalt as well as in carpet. Has anyone seen a 12X on asphalt? How did it do?
was used to win the IFMAR 2006 World Championship in Italy on asphalt. the question to ask is if the winning car had a thinner more flexible chassis than the one due for release?

of course they are top of the line drivers, in the a-main there were link cars that MR and PL drove for CRC...says alot, when they had 2 other cars from CRC with t-bars they could have run.
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Old 09-20-2006, 09:20 AM   #20658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
was used to win the IFMAR 2006 World Championship in Italy on asphalt. the question to ask is if the winning car had a thinner more flexible chassis than the one due for release?

of course they are top of the line drivers, in the a-main there were link cars that MR and PL drove for CRC...says alot, when they had 2 other cars from CRC with t-bars they could have run.
IFMAR 2006 World Championship in Italy was on carpet!!

Ronald
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Old 09-20-2006, 11:40 AM   #20659
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SP12X, The released kits also don't seem to have the much improved rear pod that Spahett used at the worlds. It has a top plate that goes all around and according to Dave is much stiffer than the version he used at the Euro's (which was a prototype 12x).
-SS
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Old 09-20-2006, 11:41 AM   #20660
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Does anyone know any Online Hobbyshops carry this Trinity part, I need about 4 pairs of these Trinity Axle spacer .050" SB085 for 1/12th scale rear axle
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Old 09-20-2006, 12:49 PM   #20661
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Good luck to Mike Haynes at the 2006 IIC race in Las Vegas. Mike will be wheeling the new Darkside Motorsports Mx2 Chassis in the 1/12 Mod Class.
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Old 09-20-2006, 12:58 PM   #20662
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Does anyone know where I can order receiver pack cells, one of the smaller sets (50 or 80mA)?

Would I have to recharge it after every race?
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Old 09-20-2006, 02:21 PM   #20663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooony
IFMAR 2006 World Championship in Italy was on carpet!!

Ronald
thanks for the correction on my mistake.......i was going off a photo that i saw and based on what it said. permanent paved track for the 2006 IFMAR Electric On-Road Championship in Italy as the results came in, i assumed the race was on this track. usually all cars/classes are all run on the same surface?

12th ran carpet
touring ran asphalt
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Old 09-20-2006, 03:55 PM   #20664
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Talking rc12l3

hi guys need some help ...!

i have an old rc12l3 that i have just started to race with but unfortunately i have managed to brake the t plate (offset L plate type) could any one tell me where i could get some spare ones from.

look forward to your replies ....
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Old 09-20-2006, 04:22 PM   #20665
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If it is the same ones as the 12L4 uses, you need to find the ones for the 12LC.
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Old 09-20-2006, 06:14 PM   #20666
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Subzero:
Where did you get the green anodizing done (the car in your avatar)?
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Old 09-20-2006, 06:52 PM   #20667
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subzero:
The part # for the t-plate you are looking for is asc4433 tower hobbies has it in stock.But according the AE site the L3 has a symetrical t-plate.
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Old 09-20-2006, 09:27 PM   #20668
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Does anyone have a link to a web page that gives a fair comparison or review between the latest 1/12th cars on the market?
Thanks Brendan
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Old 09-20-2006, 09:29 PM   #20669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzero
hi guys need some help ...!

i have an old rc12l3 that i have just started to race with but unfortunately i have managed to brake the t plate (offset L plate type) could any one tell me where i could get some spare ones from.
My parts listing shows the 12LC/L3 Symmetrical T -bar, .075" thick is part # 4520 and the 12LC/L3 Symmetrical T -bar, .063" thick is part # 4522. Fitment is 12L3 12LC 12L4 according to Associated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hanknmorgan
Any other recommendations that would be a good all around charger. The ice is too far out of my budget unfortunately.
Are you feeling lucky punk? I got my ICE off of e-Bay 3 weeks ago, with the temp probe, for $76 delivered. My GP3300's were down to 2340 ma when I first charged them, after running 10 cycles I've gotten them up to 2980.

Sure, I don't have the 5 year warranty but the only moving part is the fan. Electronics usually fail quite quickly or never.
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Old 09-20-2006, 11:10 PM   #20670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBucks
My esc came with thick guage wire that is definately affecting the pod's movement. I've searched but haven't found a source for really good flexible 16 guage wire. Local electronics stuff is to stiff, haven't seen on web either.
Where can I get this stuff? Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
If you need wire with a very thin jacket (like to fit two under batteries) you'll need Castle Creations 16ga www.castlecreations.com. their wire is no longer listed but I think you can special order it if you call them.
Just to follow up from an earlier post:
I ordered the Castle Creations wire and it is very nice stuff. Hard to believe it really is 16 guage, very flexible. 5ft of red and 5 ft of black for $5 + $5 shipping. It isn't listed on their site, but when I called they had it in stock and shipped it out.

Hot ticket.
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