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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-18-2006, 10:03 PM   #20641
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if it's DC only that you need I have no problems with my lrp comp sport charger. charge at 7 amps 4 cells and that's probably about as high as you want to. $100 some places
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Old 09-19-2006, 01:41 AM   #20642
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Thanks for the help. After reading up a bit more, I think I am going to keep my eyes open for gently used Ice charger. I may actually even be able to make runtime with my current batts if I can get them cycled and charged to their full potential. I am just learning, so I certainly dont need top shelf batts until I can make it around the track without dinging the wall. My charger kept false peaking and having trouble, so we'll see how the packs do with a Good charger.
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Old 09-19-2006, 08:10 AM   #20643
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Default Corally 12X

When is it comming out?
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Old 09-19-2006, 08:47 AM   #20644
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Default Corally SP12X

A buddy of mine wants to run the SP12X. I have told him that its still not out, but he insists its available from Corally already. Can anyone verify this? Also he states that the its selling for $275...Stormerhobbies has them for $249, but they are on on-order and awaiting their arrivals. The car looks to be best quality 1/12th has ever seen...its amazing. Dont like the t-bar though. What about parts availability and support?
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Old 09-19-2006, 08:57 AM   #20645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
A buddy of mine wants to run the SP12X. I have told him that its still not out, but he insists its available from Corally already. Can anyone verify this? Also he states that the its selling for $275...Stormerhobbies has them for $249, but they are on on-order and awaiting their arrivals. The car looks to be best quality 1/12th has ever seen...its amazing. Dont like the t-bar though. What about parts availability and support?
The car euro style car (00066) is already available.

You can read more here:
Corally SP12X

Ronald
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Old 09-19-2006, 09:55 AM   #20646
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Good luck with the car, I think it is the nicest looking 12th scale out there. I am however guarded about buying another Corally 12th scale. I bought an M when they first came out... and roughly 450 bucks later... I still had a car I could not even give away. If you must have the Corally wait for the one that you can put standard wheels on and put an associated front end on...

But then again. I am truley a disgruntled customer. so please take my opinion for what it is worth.... After Corally telling me there was no known problem with the front arms on the M, and I should just not hit anything.. I kinda got turn off....

Off my Soap Box....


Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
A buddy of mine wants to run the SP12X. I have told him that its still not out, but he insists its available from Corally already. Can anyone verify this? Also he states that the its selling for $275...Stormerhobbies has them for $249, but they are on on-order and awaiting their arrivals. The car looks to be best quality 1/12th has ever seen...its amazing. Dont like the t-bar though. What about parts availability and support?
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Old 09-19-2006, 11:06 AM   #20647
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Yes the Euro version of the Corally is out. There was one racing at Socal on Saturday.
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Old 09-19-2006, 11:45 AM   #20648
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Default Gear ratio's

I drive tourincar outdoor and now i am going to start 1:12th racing indoors.
I have some newbie questions about it.

With tc's you have a couple of gear ratio's you normaly use. How is that on the 1:12th? And is it possible to run 48dp pinions? cause i have those.

What kind of things are also important to think about when running 1:12the 4cell mod?

The car will be an CRC Carpet knive 3.2
Do i have to buy some specific spares/options for the car or are there specific things to look at when building/driving etc?

Thanks for the help.

Arjen
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Old 09-19-2006, 12:45 PM   #20649
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Default Corally SP12X

Tim Potter: know what you mean...see the Corally 12X forum...somewhere it states that they are releasing the new kits with revised front ends, like the Associated style. Also, the 12X does have the aluminum arms, which would probably hold up nicely after any crash...not that you need it- I have seen you drive and you're the best in South Florida as far as i'm concerned. The only issues I worry about is the Fiberglass t-bar. Hopefully that wont snap like a twig, like Associated L4's. BUt the rest of the car looks like the best 12 scale to hit the market, yet. No upgrades needed with this kit, i belive. THe only problem is that will they work well on asphalt! We run on asphalt here in south florida and need kits that will work on asphalt as well as in carpet. Has anyone seen a 12X on asphalt? How did it do?
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Old 09-19-2006, 12:47 PM   #20650
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What's a good arbor suitable for associated's front and rear wheels that i can fit with the OFNA auto truer? I'm searching thru Stormers but kinda lost.
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Old 09-19-2006, 12:49 PM   #20651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ammo
What's a good arbor suitable for associated's front and rear wheels that i can fit with the OFNA auto truer? I'm searching thru Stormers but kinda lost.

HUDY or Corally make the best arbors I've seen for truers of that style.
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Old 09-19-2006, 12:56 PM   #20652
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Thanks for the nice words... we have way faster guys then me.... But I am positive that car will work great on asphalt. and really, I would not be afraid of the T-Bar... I think you may have had some bad luck with breakage...



Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
Tim Potter: know what you mean...see the Corally 12X forum...somewhere it states that they are releasing the new kits with revised front ends, like the Associated style. Also, the 12X does have the aluminum arms, which would probably hold up nicely after any crash...not that you need it- I have seen you drive and you're the best in South Florida as far as i'm concerned. The only issues I worry about is the Fiberglass t-bar. Hopefully that wont snap like a twig, like Associated L4's. BUt the rest of the car looks like the best 12 scale to hit the market, yet. No upgrades needed with this kit, i belive. THe only problem is that will they work well on asphalt! We run on asphalt here in south florida and need kits that will work on asphalt as well as in carpet. Has anyone seen a 12X on asphalt? How did it do?
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Old 09-19-2006, 02:44 PM   #20653
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Default 12x

Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
A buddy of mine wants to run the SP12X. I have told him that its still not out, but he insists its available from Corally already. Can anyone verify this? Also he states that the its selling for $275...Stormerhobbies has them for $249, but they are on on-order and awaiting their arrivals. The car looks to be best quality 1/12th has ever seen...its amazing. Dont like the t-bar though. What about parts availability and support?


Corally USA has both version of the 12x. I saw them today.Both cars have the chassis drilled out for the AE arms. The chassis looked a little on the thick side but I'm sure it will work fine on any surface.

http://www.superiorhobbies.com/

You might want to check out the DB12 from BMI it's a very good asphalt car. Plus the support from Jason is awesome. Just my 2 cents............
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Old 09-19-2006, 03:44 PM   #20654
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The 12X chassis is 2.4mm. I don't have mine yet, but should be here any time. I am having the US spec kit, I'm told they are available in the UK so i would assume they should be in the US.
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Old 09-19-2006, 05:35 PM   #20655
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Matt - Congrats on your great run this last weekend! I've seen your name in the BRCA Mod A's a couple of times this year.
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