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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-17-2006, 12:07 PM   #20596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperDaveNT
Is the airtronics 94761 meant for 1/12 cars? If not which one is?
94145. It has some centering problems though. The best 2 servos out there are the z3550 and z3650 from JR. I have been running the 94145 and I have to steer the car down the straight-away. It is not a very precise servo.
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Old 09-17-2006, 12:33 PM   #20597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperDaveNT
Is the airtronics 94761 meant for 1/12 cars? If not which one is?
Lots of people have had success with the Airtronics 94145, it's been the "standby " for 1/12th for a long time. I understand it is no longer in production, though. I've never heard of anyone using the 94761. The JR 3550 is preferred by many, but it is also now unobtainable. I've used the 3650 (digital version of the 3550) and have no complaints, some say it is unreliable and doesn't always center. We've been using the analog Futaba 9602 lately in all of our cars and have found it to be excellent.
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:06 PM   #20598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Lots of people have had success with the Airtronics 94145, it's been the "standby " for 1/12th for a long time. I understand it is no longer in production, though. I've never heard of anyone using the 94761. The JR 3550 is preferred by many, but it is also now unobtainable. I've used the 3650 (digital version of the 3550) and have no complaints, some say it is unreliable and doesn't always center. We've been using the analog Futaba 9602 lately in all of our cars and have found it to be excellent.



Futaba 9602.............
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Old 09-17-2006, 05:11 PM   #20599
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I use both the Airtronics 94145 and Futaba 9602 and have never had a centering problem with them. They are outstanding servos.
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Old 09-17-2006, 06:15 PM   #20600
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Well im a airtronics man and noticed the 761 is digital which is usualy my prefence.
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Old 09-17-2006, 06:25 PM   #20601
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I ran my Rev4 this weekend for the first time and my 94145 works fine. I have a KO 949 that I will drop in later.

My Rev4 felt absolutely brillant on it's maiden run. I ran about 6 packs through it before the tires got to small to bite. Not bad, now I need to get some more practice so I can stay off those boards. I can't believe how good this car felt compare to TC. If I could only get my TC to run like that.
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:57 PM   #20602
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Hello everyone. I finally got the chance to race my recently aquired RC12L4 this weekend at the local track. I had a great time despite getting my butt kicked in a huge way. I am the only guy without a brushless setup and I cant drive worth a darn yet either.

Anyway, I definately need a few new things and was hoping to get some recommendations. I bought the car used and it came with 3 gp3300 packs. They look pretty old and I guess they are past their prime as I was unable to run a full 8 minutes. I ran about 7 minutes the first race and about 5 after that. So I need to get a decent pack or 2 and a new charger as mine is fairly basic and doesnt really have much adjustability or data readout. What do you guys recommend. Most everyone at the track seemed to be runing the IB4200's. I guess I'll give those a shot. I really need help with a charger though. I cant spend $100+ on one. I am hyper cheap and my car budget is near noexistant. Is there a decent bang for the buck charger avialable that you would recommend. I saw a duratrax digital pirahna that looked kind of decent?

Lastly, bearings. Mine are shot. My front wheels wobble quite a bit and my diff is pretty notchy. I cleaned and lubed my bearings and rebuilt the diff and several of the bearing are toast. What should I look at for bearings. Again, I need to keep on the cheap, but I want decent stuff. Thanks.

-Hank

Last edited by hanknmorgan; 09-17-2006 at 10:08 PM.
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:05 PM   #20603
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for inexpensive but good bearings, id go with Avid, i think the site is www.avidrc.com i think most all his bearings are just $1 each! plus, David is a super nice guy to work with... excellent quality, and good price...

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Old 09-17-2006, 10:27 PM   #20604
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Thanks. The avids look reasonably priced for sure. Which is better though, the metal or rubber shielded ones? Also, I think I read somewhere that there is something I can get to help prevent my outer diff bearing from failing so frequently, but I cant remember what it was called. Does that sound familiar?

Sorry, I thought of one other thing I had a question on as well. Do I need a discharger for my packs? I know that NIMH dont suffer from memory like NICD, but it seemed that everyone at the track had some sort of discharger, equalizer, etc. But then again, most guys at the track were about double past overkill on most of thier operations. I have no plans to be a super hardcore racer anything, but I want to take care of my stuff and get what I really NEED. Thanks again.
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:46 PM   #20605
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The item you're referring to is the Slapmaster Tools thrust bearing assembly. Not inexpensive, but very worthwhile over the long haul. Brian has been running the same bearings in his 1/12 car for at least a couple years now and maybe more. No more bearing replacement every few races, less maintenance, and a smoother diff to boot. The kit runs $30--I am installing them in both my cars I'm building up for this season. Contact Brian on Slapmaster Tools

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Old 09-18-2006, 04:11 AM   #20606
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Default Rod ends?

What rod ends are on this car?
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:05 AM   #20607
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First spy shot of the new CRC front end...



"...many Bothans died to bring us this information..."
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Old 09-18-2006, 10:39 AM   #20608
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Any recomendations for a battery charger?
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Old 09-18-2006, 10:58 AM   #20609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Bruce has been getting ranked on a lot lately for not keeping up with emails and calls. Maybe its not the best method, but IMO he can either sit and answer emails and phone calls all day long, or work on the product. SpeedMerchant is by all reports a small operation whose sales have increased dramatically due to the car's recent successes at some big races. He's always swamped trying to get product out and getting ready for the next race. I'm a relatively old customer have to wait a long time to get orders sometimes. But he always comes through, even if I don't hear from him. He's also one of the nicest and most helpful people in RC racing. Personally, I have always found the wait well worth it.
That's all fine and good, but when your a shop owner and your trying to carry someone product for sell because you've had several customers asking for it. He could at the very least reply to the fax or email sent letting you know that he at least received the correspondence.

It seems to me that getting him to talk anyone about carrying his products has always been a issue and its not due to the recent success that they've had. jmo.

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Old 09-18-2006, 11:27 AM   #20610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Bruce has been getting ranked on a lot lately for not keeping up with emails and calls. Maybe its not the best method, but IMO he can either sit and answer emails and phone calls all day long, or work on the product.

Well, no, as a business owner, you HAVE to do both. You have to be responsive to your customers, otherwise they won't be your customers, regardless of how good your product is.

I absolutely LOVE the car, but I waited 6 weeks (5 e-mails, 2 PMs and 3 phone calls later) for any type of response when I had a problem that kept me from racing. That's unacceptable for any company, I don't care how small they are.

If they do not want inquiries through e-mail or phone, then they shouldn't put contact information on their website. This is the age of communication, and without at least marginal contact with it's customers, any company that fails to respond in a reasonable time to questions and problems is asking for trouble. The history of R/C is littered with failed companies who had products just as good.


The on-track success of SpeedMerchant means nothing if they can't get products to their customer base.



You'd love to support the little guy/nice guy, but the inherent characteristics that make them the little guy also make them sometimes a challenge to deal with. I hope things improve even slightly, because I honestly think that the SpeedMerchant is the best handling R/C car I have ever driven.



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