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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-15-2006, 08:43 AM   #20551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sydewynder
So what kind of snoozer deal can I get?

As for the receiver I can wait but thanks for the offer. I'm waiting for....see above sentence. There should have been at least 4 SSR3500s ordered . Yours was tacked onto mine and since someone saw one in the cue order only 2 more.

Oh well back to 12th scale. See you at the track and store(s)
Look at Willy trying to get the hookup! Not before me Bro! I actually will race the car unlike you!
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Old 09-15-2006, 08:47 AM   #20552
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If all you have available to you is your race bearings (installed in the spur, etc) you could always lube them with grease in such a way that they are over lubed. With all that grease packed in the bearing, it is much less likely that you will get the polishing compound into the support bearing. This can later be blown out with some motor spray the same way that the original grease was. Some suitable grease that you may want to try; bicycle chain lube - the kind with high paraffin content, axle grease, diff grease. What you'd be looking to do is form a barrier.

I do agree, though. A second life bearing is probably the best method.
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Old 09-15-2006, 09:16 AM   #20553
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For cutting the rings in I thought it was said that toothpaste could also be used.

E
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Old 09-15-2006, 09:34 AM   #20554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
For cutting the rings in I thought it was said that toothpaste could also be used.E
Man, toothpaste is a REALLY fine abrasive polish--I would think it would take a much longer time than 5 min by hand to make any sort of progress. I know T-Cut is fairly mild, but I'd imagine it to be something more aggressive than toothpaste. Though some of that "smoker's tooth polish" might be the trick.

Anyone know of a T-Cut equivalent available here in the US?

Scottrik
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Old 09-15-2006, 10:15 AM   #20555
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Default HELP!!! CRC Carpet Knife

What's the better kit for asphalt, the CRC Carpet knife 3.2R or the CRC T-Force? I had ordered the CRC Capet knife on the advice of someone who stated that any 1/12th scale car can run on asphalt. Is this true? Will the carpet knife also work well on asphalt or is it specifically made for carpet?
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Old 09-15-2006, 11:16 AM   #20556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
What's the better kit for asphalt, the CRC Carpet knife 3.2R or the CRC T-Force? I had ordered the CRC Capet knife on the advice of someone who stated that any 1/12th scale car can run on asphalt. Is this true? Will the carpet knife also work well on asphalt or is it specifically made for carpet?
I've seen the Knife work well on asphalt, especially when the bite is good. The T-Fource might be easier to get set up for asphalt, IMO.
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Old 09-15-2006, 12:16 PM   #20557
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Both work well, I find around here that most people use T-Plate cars. Come on up this Saturday to the Royal Palm track, and you can see both types running.



Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
What's the better kit for asphalt, the CRC Carpet knife 3.2R or the CRC T-Force? I had ordered the CRC Capet knife on the advice of someone who stated that any 1/12th scale car can run on asphalt. Is this true? Will the carpet knife also work well on asphalt or is it specifically made for carpet?
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Old 09-15-2006, 12:21 PM   #20558
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OD

your a class act (compliment), you answered that last post and didn't throw in a shameless plug for your own product. i think that says alot!

i went to your site, could you send me a p.m. on details on how to get your kit (M.O., paypal?). i would be also interested in some of those 8/32 screws you have pictured if your selling those.
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Old 09-15-2006, 12:24 PM   #20559
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hey Eric

how is the 12th scene at Competiton Hobbies in Tuscon, since the new carpet went down for the IIC warm-up race?
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Old 09-15-2006, 12:28 PM   #20560
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I may be mistaken but those look like Lunsford Titanium screws. They are VERY nice to have on the car. I hate the aluminum phillips scres.

www.lunsfordracing.com

8-32 1/2" Flat Head Titanium Screws
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Old 09-15-2006, 01:00 PM   #20561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPotter
Both work well, I find around here that most people use T-Plate cars. Come on up this Saturday to the Royal Palm track, and you can see both types running.
I dont like the t-plate set ups if they are as weak and pain in the a*** to replace if they brake as found in the Assocaited L4 cars. I am afraid the CRC T-Force plate is made of fiberglass like the associated car or is it carbon fiber? Does anyone know if it breaks often?
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Old 09-15-2006, 01:07 PM   #20562
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you could use a IRS springsteel t-bar, i have one i bought 2-years ago and has been on six different cars with no problems/failures to date.
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Old 09-15-2006, 01:31 PM   #20563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Man, toothpaste is a REALLY fine abrasive polish--I would think it would take a much longer time than 5 min by hand to make any sort of progress. I know T-Cut is fairly mild, but I'd imagine it to be something more aggressive than toothpaste. Though some of that "smoker's tooth polish" might be the trick.

Anyone know of a T-Cut equivalent available here in the US?

Scottrik
With great respect to my good friend Mark, you don't need to do this at all. Ceramic balls are not as good as steel balls for diffs - they give less grip on the rings, so needing more load on the outer bearing. This is a lot of work for little reward.

Just follow the Diff King (Dave Irrgang) and you will have the best diff you can lay your hands on quickly, and easily .

T-Cut is a mild abrasive used to take the bloom (dull finish) off paintwork before polishing and sealing. The nearest equivalent I found for the USA is Turtle Wax Liquid Rubbing Compound - but better to spend $7.50 on a bulk-bag of IRS steel diff balls (100!) and follow Dave's free instructions - the mutts nuts! (That's colloquial English for very good!!) HTH
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Old 09-15-2006, 02:25 PM   #20564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
hey Eric

how is the 12th scene at Competiton Hobbies in Tuscon, since the new carpet went down for the IIC warm-up race?
It's been pretty good. The new carpet grooved up pretty quickly. The traction was super nice.

Looking to pick up another car I see. good lord... how many is that? 10-20 1/12 cars.

I gave up on my need for a 4 bolt pod and just picked up a crc3.2. its been running great. Never could get a hold of speedmerchat (bruce) so I figured he didn't want to sell me any of his cars. Even his cronnies that volunteered to contact him came back empty handed.

E
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Old 09-15-2006, 02:27 PM   #20565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
It's been pretty good. The new carpet grooved up pretty quickly. The traction was super nice.

Looking to pick up another car I see. good lord... how many is that? 10-20 1/12 cars.

I gave up on my need for a 4 bolt pod and just picked up a crc3.2. its been running great. Never could get a hold of speedmerchat (bruce) so I figured he didn't want to sell me any of his cars. Even his cronnies that volunteered to contact him came back empty handed.

E
i have also tried to get Bruce from SpeedMerchant but it seems he is very busy and doesnt have ime to answer the phones or return calls...hopefully its because he's making lots sales...
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