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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 12-12-2002, 02:55 PM   #2041
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Mmm page 69
we are doing well,
is there plenty of racing in the states,hear in the u.k we are in the middle of our BRCA Nationals etc
Merry christmas
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Old 12-12-2002, 02:57 PM   #2042
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Aeon ,

I know the track at Gilbert very well... yes, it is smooth, but bear in mind that the tires used on the 12th are considerably smaller in diameter than those of the pan cars... this will make each bump seem bigger to the car...

Not to mention the fact that youwouldn't want to damage your nice new chassis!! BUT - in the end, it is your car and you do have the right to race it.. and I admit that the night I got mine, it was in the parking lot too...

As for competition hobbies, try the setup that I gave you - its what is currently winning there. They are not running a stock class as far as I know, and the common motor seems to be around an 10-12 turn... Hope you enjoy it down there, I know that the guys have been putting in many hours gettin it ready!! I am like you - I can't wait to get there and run on it!

Trackside Hobbies and Raceway: www.tracksideraceway.com
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Old 12-12-2002, 03:03 PM   #2043
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Heh, apparently you haven't been down to Gilbert lately and you haven't see the pan car guys running. They shave the tire down till about 1/8th of an inch of foam is left, if that. I'm putting brand new tires on the car and making the car ride practically like a monster truck. I've already got a few scratches from breaking the "don't ever run infront of your house" rule. I just couldn't resist.
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Old 12-13-2002, 06:18 AM   #2044
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I get mine from Rob Murdock @ MurdockRC. $17.99 mounted, trued on TRC rims. He is going to new rims here soon .
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Old 12-13-2002, 07:51 AM   #2045
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everybody seen the new CRC wheels?

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Old 12-13-2002, 08:06 AM   #2046
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Originally posted by newracer
everybody seen the new CRC wheels?
Thoser are KEWL!!! Wonder if they are the same offset.
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
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Old 12-13-2002, 02:13 PM   #2047
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ar they available yet
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Old 12-13-2002, 03:48 PM   #2048
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they are supposed to be shipping to LHS's next week

2157 - magenta front
2158 - purple front
2162 - white rear
2163 - grey rear
2164 - pink rear

more compounds to come
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Old 12-13-2002, 04:44 PM   #2049
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Thoes are the coolest rims that I have seen yet on a 12th scale....I know that I will be racing with now.
2013 USVTA World Champion of the World
MOTIV RC presents the Midwest All-Star Carpet Series....15th year running 2017/18!!!
USVTA National Championship....check it out!!!
Im only responsible for what I say NOT what you understand.
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Old 12-13-2002, 08:25 PM   #2050
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Aeon -

Have I run at Gilbert lately?? not in the last four months... but unless the parking lot has been repaved... then nothing has changed in the last several years... good traction... surface is still OK at best...

Problem is: 4 boards and 13 dots in the middle of a parking lot with no descernable track layout doesn't constitute a track to me... not to mention standing on a milk crate... or the lack of power and lighting (other than the light pole in the middle of the track - which is more of a danger to the car than a lighting aid)

Don't get me wrong here - I always enjoy racing there - the competition is good in TC and oval... my point is this - a 12th scale car is FAR more fragile than either one of the other two out there. And you will find very quickly the first time your car gets sent towards McDonalds that the car gets tweaked and then doesn't handle for crap. I was simply stating to save your nice new ride for what it was made for - carpet. CH is a premiere facility! Use it. Granted, is HT gilbert gets a good 12th scale crew together - I might come and run... besides, I hear that bustamante has gone and gotten fast in that class too...

As for the tire size discussion - I know what oval drivers do, TC and 12th scale cars on foam are no different... the point I was trying to make is this - put a race size 12th scale tire next to a pan car tire - the difference is huge. Each time the car hits a bump, the car will be effected... quite a bit in fact on a 12th scale... everything is small and quicker, making any little input into the car that much more noticeable.

In any case - get down there tomorrow!! I know that many from Phx are heading down!!
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Old 12-14-2002, 12:15 AM   #2051
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I'd like to, but unfortunately I've go some stuff I gotta do around the house, with the car, and then still study for my final exams, so no time this weekend. I will be out in full force next Saturday. Yeah, Mr. Bustamante is a good friend of mine. He basically the trend setter at the Gilbert track, if he gets something, everyone else jumps on the bandwagon. I myself was thinking about getting a 1/12th scale a while back, but never followed up on the idea. Then Ben gets a 1/12th scale, so do a few other people, so I went ahead and finally got mine. I've only driven it once but I love it to death...

Anyway, about those dots, if you mention something to Ben about me hitting dots, he'll be able to tell you. I hit a dot at about 1/4 of the way through the infield, the car launched and I ended up at the other end of the track. Nothing broke, just a scratched up antenna condom. I still haven't figured out why its pulling hard right under acceleration though.
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Old 12-14-2002, 08:42 AM   #2052
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Busta's settin the trends huh?? gotta love it!!

As for the pulling hard right under acceleration... are your left and right rear tires the same diameter?? Another good place to check would be the diff itself.. To be quite honest - mine has done the same thing on occasion - especially if I pin it from a dead stop (not a good idea in the first place when trying to conserve power) with this being the case - the car will pull to the right

dots... dots... dots!!! they can certainly be dangerous down there!

Looks like the first chance I wil get to race at CH will be the first weekend in Jan - til then, I am stuck up in the cold!!

Out - Wilde
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Old 12-14-2002, 07:33 PM   #2053
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Default hudy tire truer and Jaco wheels

Just tried out my new Hudy tire truer with somewhat un-happy results.The machine I bought is the 110AC universal version and has very good power but I question the arbor that are Hudy as well.They require you to use a step-up sleeve of sorts that you place on the motor shaft and then you place the arbor over that and tighten.My arbor doesn't seem to spin very true at all and truing up some tires for my carpet knife confirms that it isn't doing its job....I got the wobbles for sure and I ain't happy!Anyone else out there having the same trouble....would a different arbor such as one from Ofna fix the problem.I really like the truer other than the arbor problem but if I can't get it right, this dude is heading back to Serpent USA.

BTW...I'am using Jaco wheels front and rear....fronts where slightly drilled out with a 15/64 drill to fit arbor.
Just a update on my truer problems.Looks as though I had installed the arbor in-correct.The set-up sleeve has a slot in it like the arbor and while installing,I purposely set them 180 degrees apart.I lined the slots up on both sleeve and arbor and clamped it down....everything looking much better now.

Last edited by Lowrance; 12-15-2002 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 12-15-2002, 07:54 PM   #2054
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Hey, im kinda new to rc, i just got a micro rs4 last christmas, but now nothing is stock on it . i was thinking of getting another car and i really like onroad and have watched the 1/12 races at my local track and the cars look really fun. i was wondering what would be a good 1/12 car to get thats not outragously expensive and would be a good racer. i looked at a kit at my LHS(RC12L3) and it was $145 (i think, ill check next time im there)theres a link at the bottom. would this be a good kit? i know i need electronics but could you tell me what would be good ones?


Last edited by blue micro; 12-15-2002 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 12-16-2002, 05:59 AM   #2055
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You can also look at the Corally SP12M Fibre Glass kit.
It should sell at your LHS for around $120, or $129 directly from Corally USA. With the fibre kit, it comes pre-built and pretty well race ready.

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