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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-13-2006, 07:28 AM   #20521
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You could also try Castle Creations, their #16 wire works very well. Sorry dont have the exact web address. Bill
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:47 AM   #20522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBucks
My esc came with thick guage wire that is definately affecting the pod's movement. I've searched but haven't found a source for really good flexible 16 guage wire. Local electronics stuff is to stiff, haven't seen on web either.
Where can I get this stuff?
Thanks.
You can get good quality 16 ga silicone jacket wire from www.airdyn.com
The stuff I like best now is Deans 16ga from www.robotmarketplace.com
If you need wire with a very thin jacket (like to fit two under batteries) you'll need Castle Creations 16ga www.castlecreations.com. their wire is no longer listed but I think you can special order it if you call them.
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Old 09-13-2006, 10:36 AM   #20523
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Hi Anthony,

I am not sure if it is an optical illusion, but do the steering links on your car angle back (versus parallel or a little bit forward)? I am pretty sure that is going to do some funny things to your ackerman.

-Rich

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
Here is my new Diggity Designs D12 I will be testing tomorrow for Vegas next week. Thanks to Damon at Diggity Designs for getting me the car fast. However my work schedule has delayed the build.
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Old 09-13-2006, 12:41 PM   #20524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerDriver
The Protoform Speed 12 is scale? Yeah, a 2:1 scale slot car body. Even my P-35 body has too narrow of a cabin to be scale. Why don't organizations outlaw these flat wedge bodies? Scale speed s/b no more than 16-18 mph. probably get more than that with a single lipo.

Disclaimer; Why doesn't NASCAR demand STOCK bodies as in the '70's & '80's? Show me a showroom stock Monte Carlo that's even close to the width of a Cup car.
Something is in the works on this issue, give it sometime to evolve...
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Old 09-14-2006, 01:05 AM   #20525
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rear track

Last weekend I was measuring my rear track on my l4 and found it to be 5mm to narrower than ROAR max. My question is what does widening or narrowing the rear track do to the car?
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Old 09-14-2006, 01:51 AM   #20526
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Hey OD

Hope you like the micro spektrum receiver. Let me know how mine worked out for ya.
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Old 09-14-2006, 02:18 AM   #20527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sydewynder
Hey OD

Hope you like the micro spektrum receiver. Let me know how mine worked out for ya.
I have seven SR3500 recievers; which one is yours?
Oh, they all work fine...
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Old 09-14-2006, 02:56 AM   #20528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I have seven SR3500 recievers; which one is yours?
Oh, they all work fine...
The one I ordered and was sold to you recently at the LHS

Went to pick it up today and was told "Oh it got sold to odpurple". It's Ok. Just get me a deal on the od12.
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Old 09-14-2006, 04:07 AM   #20529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae4ever
Last weekend I was measuring my rear track on my l4 and found it to be 5mm to narrower than ROAR max. My question is what does widening or narrowing the rear track do to the car?
in testing i found that it mellows the car down quite a bit.i run mine at 168mm and it gives me the feel that i am looking for.i tried more narrow and the car was darty feeling.i went to the roar limit and the car pushed.it controls the amount of rear traction and the rotation.more narrow the faster it seems to rotate making it a bit of a handfull.
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Old 09-14-2006, 09:02 AM   #20530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sydewynder
The one I ordered and was sold to you recently at the LHS

Went to pick it up today and was told "Oh it got sold to odpurple". It's Ok. Just get me a deal on the od12.
I'll give you a special "snooze you lose" deal on the car...

BTW I ordered three SR3500s from them and picked up three (somethimes they don't communicate with each other there)

edit-maybe that sounded mean you snoozer, if you are stuck without one I may have an extra, email or PM me if I can help
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Last edited by odpurple; 09-14-2006 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 09-14-2006, 09:07 AM   #20531
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more of a TC thing, but has anyone tried tire warmers on 12th scale cars? (either indoors or outdoors)
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Old 09-14-2006, 09:23 AM   #20532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smojoe
more of a TC thing, but has anyone tried tire warmers on 12th scale cars? (either indoors or outdoors)
I've never tried it but I don't see why it wouldn't help get the traction compound into the foam
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Old 09-14-2006, 12:31 PM   #20533
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What is the better motor for 1/12th the C2 or the KD?
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Old 09-14-2006, 12:50 PM   #20534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
What is the better motor for 1/12th the C2 or the KD?
I was wondering the same thing.
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Old 09-14-2006, 12:55 PM   #20535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
I was wondering the same thing.

KD's are faster than C2's in my testing, but understand a really good C2 will be faster than a so so KD-know what I mean? but KD's are just fast!!!

Last edited by rayhuang; 09-15-2006 at 02:42 PM.
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