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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-12-2006, 08:20 AM   #20491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The problem is that most guys can't handle more power than 4 cells and a 19T in a 1/12th car. Guys up north are complaining the Stock 4 cell 1/12th is too fast on certian track for beginers.

Remember Lipo is like going back to 6 cells. On 6 cells a 1/12th car with a stock motor is faster than a Mod sedan with a 7 turn in it.

Its not a matter of guys hanging on to old technology. It a matter of guys running appropriate power packages for their cars.
But like someone mentioned, if we were to run Lipos with a 4.8v limiter, we could probably run all night long on one charge.... imagine that..... RC racing where you dont even need your charger there on race night, you can run 4 - 5 min heats, plus a 10 min final on one charge... Now thats something id like to see. Strap in a battery you charged at home, no peaking, only having to tape it in ONCE, one very clean pit table, and WAY more time to work on car setup...

Yes the dejecters will post about people messing with a limiter and allowing 4.9v etc, but thats easy.... every car that comes off the track is tested at the motor for voltage at full power. anyone over 4.8v is out.... seems pretty easy to me Constant 4.8v all night.

Next thing, they should do the same with Touring....

Oh and about the 10 pans, one of the MOST easiest cars to drive on carpet (asphalt wasnt too bad either). Easier than my touring at times. Running a 5.5r GTB and 6 cell IB's, its mental fast, but dont expect to use any diff action. Mine is always run locked......

Ill post some pics of my redone T force soon!!
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Old 09-12-2006, 08:47 AM   #20492
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What rollout are you guys running on 4 cell 12th scale with the Komodo on a short track say 70ft straight?
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Old 09-12-2006, 08:54 AM   #20493
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Originally Posted by rinkrat99
What rollout are you guys running on 4 cell 12th scale with the Komodo on a short track say 70ft straight?
I run on a 100' x 50' track and run about 44mm to 46mm. I'd say start at 42mm to 43mm roll out...just my $.02.
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Old 09-12-2006, 09:56 AM   #20494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPotter
Maybe I am crazy, but isn't this going backwards with the higher voltage. I mean the cars are damn fast with 4.8 volts. Pushing 7.4+ volts through the car make it crazy fast.... wear more and break more. Didnt 1/10 pan die off becuase only a very few drivers could accurately control the missles as they were 6 or so years ago ?
Tim - I actually agree with you. A 7.4V lipo pack is just too fast to actually race with. I do not support that we start racing with this much voltage with a 1/12 scale. I did it for the "what if?" factor. The fact that everyone who tried it was grinning ear to ear was worth the effort.

My next experiment will be to try a 3.7V lipo in a 1/12 scale. I could rewire the 4.0 Ah 7.4V lipo that I have in there right now into a monster 8.0Ah 3.7V pack. It would be like running a 3 cell NIMH with super low IR. Hopefully the speed will be decent. I guess a receiver pack will be a must.
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Old 09-12-2006, 10:24 AM   #20495
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Yeah, I think it would be fun to try, problem is... people get the wrong idea :>

Please update us on the 3.7 deal... This is actually something that we have talked about on the ROAR on road forum when discussing Lipo's in general... I bet witha 10 turn.. it will be similar to 19t or stock.. .and that is respectable,,, Crazy light and limited tire wear....

Now step it up with a 3c lipo with a 6 turn....


Quote:
Originally Posted by linger
Tim - I actually agree with you. A 7.4V lipo pack is just too fast to actually race with. I do not support that we start racing with this much voltage with a 1/12 scale. I did it for the "what if?" factor. The fact that everyone who tried it was grinning ear to ear was worth the effort.

My next experiment will be to try a 3.7V lipo in a 1/12 scale. I could rewire the 4.0 Ah 7.4V lipo that I have in there right now into a monster 8.0Ah 3.7V pack. It would be like running a 3 cell NIMH with super low IR. Hopefully the speed will be decent. I guess a receiver pack will be a must.
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Old 09-12-2006, 10:31 AM   #20496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The problem is that most guys can't handle more power than 4 cells and a 19T in a 1/12th car. Guys up north are complaining the Stock 4 cell 1/12th is too fast on certian track for beginers.

Remember Lipo is like going back to 6 cells. On 6 cells a 1/12th car with a stock motor is faster than a Mod sedan with a 7 turn in it.

Its not a matter of guys hanging on to old technology. It a matter of guys running appropriate power packages for their cars.
Exactly right. Four cell 1/12th is a good balance of horsepower to handling, but even now begginners can become discouraged if they start out in anything but stock.
Driving Lingers car was a hoot, to be sure; but that was during practice. I'll bet the lap times weren't that impressive because the car was so difficult to control on the infield, and race with a bunch of cars like that out there would be a disaster.
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Old 09-12-2006, 10:54 AM   #20497
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aren't lipo's lighter as well? would single cell lipo be too slow? i know the voltage would be lower than 4 cell, but with the lighter weight could we gear up enough to make up for it?
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Old 09-12-2006, 11:12 AM   #20498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex
Touring cars and their scale look
Uh, scale of what? Where can I get that full-scale DNA?

Last season Bob Stormer was trying to get a "Long Distance" class going here. He had some MILDLY de-tuned stock motors made up and with 3800's we were racing 15 minute heats and lap times within a tenth or so of the "stock" class cars. Substantially longer run times are possible (and feasible) with existing cells.

Problem--NO ONE wants to corner a 15 minute heat. 8 minutes is bad enough as far as any sedan drivers who may get stuck cornering 1/12 are concerned.

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Old 09-12-2006, 12:03 PM   #20499
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Originally Posted by Scottrik
Uh, scale of what? Where can I get that full-scale DNA?

Scottrik
I'm not talking about the make or type of a car. What I meant was that a 1:10 pan car was not even close to scale of a 1:1 GTP car. The 1:10 pan car would be way too wide if it were made full scale.

When Touring came onto the scene the cars were narrower and were closer to scale of its full scale counterpart.

...And cornering a 15 minute heat wouldn't be too bad. Don't gas guys do 30 mins to 1 hour in the mains??? Honestly, I don't even want to corner a 5 min heat.

Last edited by Apex; 09-12-2006 at 12:20 PM.
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Old 09-12-2006, 12:15 PM   #20500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex
I'm not talking about the make or type of a car. What I meant was that a 1:10 pan car was not even close to scale of a 1:1 GTP car. The 1:10 pan car would be way too wide if it were made full scale.

When Touring came onto the scene the cars were narrower and were closer to scale of its full scale counterpart.

...And cornering a 15 minute heat wouldn't be too bad. Don't gas guys do 30 mins to 1 hour in the mains???
Actually a TC isn't really any closer to scale than the Pro10 cars were, TC's are way too long and too wide to be scale. God I miss Pro10
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Old 09-12-2006, 01:49 PM   #20501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnywhopper
aren't lipo's lighter as well? would single cell lipo be too slow? i know the voltage would be lower than 4 cell, but with the lighter weight could we gear up enough to make up for it?
Due to the lighter weight of the battery I am sure you could gear it up or use a lower turn motor to make it as fast. The only problem would be you would have to run a rx pack because the voltage of a single cell would probably be too low for the BEC to supply power to the RX and servo.
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Old 09-12-2006, 02:22 PM   #20502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex
I'm not talking about the make or type of a car. What I meant was that a 1:10 pan car was not even close to scale of a 1:1 GTP car. The 1:10 pan car would be way too wide if it were made full scale.

When Touring came onto the scene the cars were narrower and were closer to scale of its full scale counterpart.
OK, then your argument re: more scale or not dies on arrival because you can't point to "scale of what". I'm active in 1/32 scale model racing (a branch of "slot cars" and am FAR in preference to what is scale vs. what handles better/goes faster so this is FAR from an academic debate to me.

I had taken a break from RC when TC arrived so I can't answer to whether they were closer to scale or not. If they were, it seems they've jumped off the same slippery slope because I'd estimate they're now significantly further from scale than the 1/10 pan cars I remember from the early '90's...and to Cypress' point, gosh I miss 'em!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex
...And cornering a 15 minute heat wouldn't be too bad. Don't gas guys do 30 mins to 1 hour in the mains??? Honestly, I don't even want to corner a 5 min heat.
Cornering one main vs. three such heats and a main are completely different animals. Plus, typically the gas guys are cornering other gas guys so there's generally parity as to how much each guy is cornering (at least in the heats). At least that's how it was when I raced 1/8 onroad back then and how it more or less works out racing 1/8 buggies this past summer. What we ended up with trying to make the "Long Distance" class work was that there was only one heat of LD so at BEST someone who was racing 8-min 1/12 heats was "stuck" cornering the 15-min LD heats. At worst (and it did happen) some poor schmoe TC hack was stuck cornering the 15-min LD heat after his 5-minute TC heat. 15-minute heats were fun (and easily feasible with "mere" 3800 batteries) but in reality whoever was ahead at the 8 minute mark was generally who was ahead after 15. It didn't "settle" anything but got more wheel time for the participants.

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Old 09-12-2006, 02:35 PM   #20503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex
I'm not talking about the make or type of a car. What I meant was that a 1:10 pan car was not even close to scale of a 1:1 GTP car. The 1:10 pan car would be way too wide if it were made full scale.

When Touring came onto the scene the cars were narrower and were closer to scale of its full scale counterpart.
The Protoform Speed 12 is scale? Yeah, a 2:1 scale slot car body. Even my P-35 body has too narrow of a cabin to be scale. Why don't organizations outlaw these flat wedge bodies? Scale speed s/b no more than 16-18 mph. probably get more than that with a single lipo.

Disclaimer; Why doesn't NASCAR demand STOCK bodies as in the '70's & '80's? Show me a showroom stock Monte Carlo that's even close to the width of a Cup car.

Last edited by BimmerDriver; 09-12-2006 at 03:16 PM.
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Old 09-12-2006, 02:50 PM   #20504
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Not trying to start a heated debate, but why are people so concerned with scale apperance? I really don't care what the 1:1 conterpart looks like compared to what body/car I'm running. If I wanted scale, I would build static models. 1:1 cars vary so much from model to model it would be very hard to make a chassis that would be able to run true scale bodies. If you took the stickers off of a Nextel Cup car, you wouldn't really be able to tell what it is. Ever notice that the Cup cars are not symetrical from left to right? Never seen a production car like that and we call this "Stock Car" racing.

I always thought that the point of LMP style bodies was to push the envelope on what technology had to offer, isn't that what we're doing, just with different limitations.

To me it's all about racing fast little rc cars, having a chassis, tires, and body that were designed for racing and giving the best possible performance within the rules that are set forth. Don't really car if it looks like a Porsche or a door wedge, just as long as it works.
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Old 09-12-2006, 02:51 PM   #20505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
Not trying to start a heated debate, but why are people so concerned with scale apperance? I really don't care what the 1:1 conterpart looks like compared to what body/car I'm running. If I wanted scale, I would build static models. 1:1 cars vary so much from model to model it would be very hard to make a chassis that would be able to run true scale bodies. If you took the stickers off of a Nextel Cup car, you wouldn't really be able to tell what it is. Ever notice that the Cup cars are not symetrical from left to right? Never seen a production car like that and we call this "Stock Car" racing.

I always thought that the point of LMP style bodies was to push the envelope on what technology had to offer, isn't that what we're doing, just with different limitations.

To me it's all about racing fast little rc cars, having a chassis, tires, and body that were designed for racing and giving the best possible performance within the rules that are set forth. Don't really car if it looks like a Porsche or a door wedge, just as long as it works.
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