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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-11-2006, 02:56 PM   #20476
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Default Lipo Saddle Packs

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBlack
Just a curious question has anyone tried mounting two smaller Li-Po battery packs in tandem say two 1500 20C packs in tandom to make a 3000Mah 20C Li-Po saddle pack?

I have had requests from some for a saddle pack Li-Po and it appear that this maybe an answer and we will be testing this however just checking to see what those that run 1:12 scale think about it.
Dont need to worry about this guys: there are LiPO saddle packs in the market. Got to www.maxamps.com, and on the left hand aside, click on the LiPo battery section, and take a look at their saddle LiPo packs for 1/10 and 1/12 cars. I run them and they are great!
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Old 09-11-2006, 03:17 PM   #20477
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Maybe I am crazy, but isn't this going backwards with the higher voltage. I mean the cars are damn fast with 4.8 volts. Pushing 7.4+ volts through the car make it crazy fast.... wear more and break more. Didnt 1/10 pan die off becuase only a very few drivers could accurately control the missles as they were 6 or so years ago ?
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Old 09-11-2006, 04:57 PM   #20478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPotter
Maybe I am crazy, but isn't this going backwards with the higher voltage. I mean the cars are damn fast with 4.8 volts. Pushing 7.4+ volts through the car make it crazy fast.... wear more and break more. Didnt 1/10 pan does off becuase only a very few drivers could accurately control the missles as they were 6 or so years ago ?
Maybe a regulator? A full 4.8 volts delivered consistently over 8 minutes would be nice...
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:30 PM   #20479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Maybe a regulator? A full 4.8 volts delivered consistently over 8 minutes would be nice...
Or ten minutes, or twelve...
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:33 PM   #20480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPotter
Maybe I am crazy, but isn't this going backwards with the higher voltage. I mean the cars are damn fast with 4.8 volts. Pushing 7.4+ volts through the car make it crazy fast.... wear more and break more. Didnt 1/10 pan die off becuase only a very few drivers could accurately control the missles as they were 6 or so years ago ?
I agree here w/ Mr. Potter...the pblm is that LiPO cells are just better tech than the current 6 cell, and people are just tired of the same thing. People feel the new tech and want to use it, but it does need to harnessed somehow, since speeds are getting insane...
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:42 PM   #20481
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But isn't there a difference between 1/10 pan running 7.4v and 1/12th? A 1/10 pan car should run like similarly equiped mod TC...the pblm is putting 7.4 and mod systems on 1/12 scale cars...this is were it could be insane...can anyone comment on this based on their experience?
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:48 PM   #20482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
But isn't there a difference between 1/10 pan running 7.4v and 1/12th? A 1/10 pan car should run like similarly equiped mod TC...the pblm is putting 7.4 and mod systems on 1/12 scale cars...this is were it could be insane...can anyone comment on this based on their experience?
1/10th pan cars are way faster than touring cars. There's a lot less weight and less drivetrain on them to slow them down. I can attest to 1/12th being insane fast with 7.4 volts and mod after driving Linger's car, though. For lipos to work on a general basis there would have to be other adjustments, say to motor and esc.
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:57 PM   #20483
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I can atest to what OD is saying about Liger's car. With a 7.4v LiPo pack and 10T mod motor Linger's 12L4 was insanly fast on our large 98'x48' carpet track. That car ate up the full back straight like it was nothing, and the power that car showed through the infield was just insane. If you we're brave enough to drive that thing full tilt it would run that way for 15+ min. The raw exceleration was just insane.
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Old 09-12-2006, 03:42 AM   #20484
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Hmm, so Lipo with a 3.5 in a 12th would be a little scary???
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Old 09-12-2006, 04:04 AM   #20485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pheyhoe
Hmm, so Lipo with a 3.5 in a 12th would be a little scary???
I guess lipo & 13.5 + 20 or 30min finals (with 5 min quals) would be my substitute for nitro during winter
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Old 09-12-2006, 04:16 AM   #20486
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guys, i have tried VXR 7.4V 2100 mAh Lipo on my 1/12. The Esc was a sphere competition and the motor was a Novak 5800 BL. I gear it with 100/23. The ESC was set to low traction track to minimize any traction problem. The total weight was about 650g cause the lipo battery was much lighter than the 4 cell sub c.

My god, this small thing accelerated faster than any electric car I've driven. The motor was screaming as it reaches maximum revolution easily. The top speed was also great. I can actually gear it to 100/25 for faster top end.

It still retains tight turning radius due to its super lightweight. Someone should try it and make sure a videocam is ready.
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Old 09-12-2006, 06:51 AM   #20487
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I think it is a great idea. The thing is, most people as well as bettery companies are trying to hold onto the past and will not embrace the concept of a square battery. Is it that big of a deal to not have to solder packs together, worry about matching, or dumping. Come on people, lets do it. A company could make the plastic case have little round keys inn the bottom so it would key into the chassis where the normal cells would sit. I think it will be awesome when LiPo and brushless finally takes over.
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Old 09-12-2006, 07:10 AM   #20488
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The problem is that most guys can't handle more power than 4 cells and a 19T in a 1/12th car. Guys up north are complaining the Stock 4 cell 1/12th is too fast on certian track for beginers.

Remember Lipo is like going back to 6 cells. On 6 cells a 1/12th car with a stock motor is faster than a Mod sedan with a 7 turn in it.

Its not a matter of guys hanging on to old technology. It a matter of guys running appropriate power packages for their cars.
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Old 09-12-2006, 08:10 AM   #20489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schurcr
I can atest to what OD is saying about Liger's car. With a 7.4v LiPo pack and 10T mod motor Linger's 12L4 was insanly fast on our large 98'x48' carpet track. That car ate up the full back straight like it was nothing, and the power that car showed through the infield was just insane. If you we're brave enough to drive that thing full tilt it would run that way for 15+ min. The raw exceleration was just insane.
How was tire wear? And 15+ minutes of run time...talk about loose at the end of the run
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Old 09-12-2006, 08:17 AM   #20490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimPotter
Maybe I am crazy, but isn't this going backwards with the higher voltage. I mean the cars are damn fast with 4.8 volts. Pushing 7.4+ volts through the car make it crazy fast.... wear more and break more. Didnt 1/10 pan die off becuase only a very few drivers could accurately control the missles as they were 6 or so years ago ?
I always thought 1:10 Pan died cause of the influx of Touring cars and their scale look which more racers identified with. Well, that was the reason why I switched to running Touring car in the mid to late 90's. Maybe it was a combination of both our reasons...Who knows???
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