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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-10-2006, 11:46 PM   #20461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBucks
I've wondered this myself.
Not for racing, but for letting beginners get into 12th, I was considering running a airplane 1800 LiPo 7.4v with a Mabuchi - very cheap. Esentially the same set up as a M03 Mini Cooper but in a low CG, light weight, foam wheel car. Not rediculous high speed, but slower and light weight to save tires, cheap batteries, cheap speed contoller, emphasis on running good lines.

Any thoughts?
Funny you guys should mention it, I just drove a lipo 1/12th car today. It was a 12L4 with a 10 turn in it. Sorry I don't know much about lipos so I can't tell you what type and how many cells, but the owner said it was 7.4 volts. The car was so fast it was almost undrivable. Everyone who drove it was grinning ear to ear it was so much fun. I think it needed some throttle or esc adjustments because just touching the throttle would cause the car to leap forward, slow corners required careful modulation to negotiate them. You could hit the straight and with less than half throttle go faster than anything else on the track, then half way down punch it and it would spin the tires until the shut off point. It was so much fun i almost peed my pants
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Old 09-11-2006, 06:22 AM   #20462
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that car was f'ing FAST!!!! half way down the back straight when you guys would nail it, you could hear the thing like bunch up and spin the tires. poor little car was screaming for mercy
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Old 09-11-2006, 06:46 AM   #20463
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7.4v would be a two cell lipo--they run 3.7v each.

My thinking for lipos was that a single cell would probably be close lap time wise to a "normal" 4-cell car, off-setting the reduced voltage with the substantially reduced weight allowing higher corner speeds and quicker acceleration/deceleration. Another field-leveler might be running the two cell lipo with a 55-65 turn lathe motor. Not surprising they're a rocket with a "normal" motor as you're pumping even more voltage into it than we had in the heyday of 6-cell 1/12 way back when...with a way better motor today.

That said, I'm opposed to lipo's in cars. There's WAY too much to go wrong (like burning down your house around them) for the "average" car racer to keep track of.

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Old 09-11-2006, 07:10 AM   #20464
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Default Today's Lipo's

No need to worry about LiPo's these days. That was a concern maybe 10yrs ago, but today's LiPOs are high-tech purposely made with rc in mind. They are as safe as regular 6 cell, and will never get as hot as 6 cells, dont need to be discaharged, ever, and can be charged time after time. They have much lower resistance and will not catch on fire unless you BBQ them. Everyone is doing LIPO's, and according to ROAR staff, they will be mainstream within 2 yrs and make 6 cell racing a thing of the past. They are only working on reconfiguring the voltage from 7.4v to 7.2v or less.
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Old 09-11-2006, 07:20 AM   #20465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbckevin
Jeff...
What compound foams are you running at Socal (indoor asphalt) for your 12th scale ?
Kevin
I run Purple front, White rear. I think everyone is running purple fronts, rears seem to run either Pink, Grey, or White. I have been running White (softest) in order to keep my back end planted until I can drive better. Craig N and Lee C say Gray is the hot ticket.
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Old 09-11-2006, 07:26 AM   #20466
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Uh, yeah, right.

Better spend a little time reading up on them on the model airplane sites guy. They lipo/lion are STILL catching fire on charge cycles, STILL catching fire if the cell is breached in a crash (hence the hard shells for rc cars), etc. And no, NONE of the cells we run (lipo or otherwise) are "RC-specific", we're nowhere NEAR a big enough market to justify developing and marketing a cell. The cell HOLDERS I've seen for cars appear to be "specific"

You are absolutely correct insofar as the lipos aren't SUPPOSED to get hot in either charge or discharge. But they do. And when they get into "runaway", stand back.

There is a reason there is a LOT of money being spent in industry (cell phone, lap-top computing, pda's etc) on trying to find/develop battery technology that has the weight, amp-hour, and no memory characteristics of lipo WITHOUT the fire danger for which they (the industry) are paying out millions in claims. What do you suppose the recalls this last month of laptop batteries is costing Sony? Estimate I saw was something in the middle-$100 millions. They didn't undergo this for their corporate health.

It's comparatively uninformed attitudes (...but they're safe now) among rc car racers that make me hesitant to say lipo's are a good idea in rc car racing. I'm not convinced they're a great idea for rc planes, and the level of care/caution exercised by the average participant is substantially higher than what I've ever seen (in twenty years) among my fellow racers.

There are certainly exceptions either way re: individual racers, and none of this is to say any given battery WILL explode into flames, but the danger IS there and it IS real. The flame these bad boys produce makes "popping" a ni-cad or nimh on the charger look like a ladyfinger.

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Old 09-11-2006, 09:45 AM   #20467
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Ok, I have enough trouble keeping my car off the walls. I don't need it catching on fire. Seriously, though, I don't see LiPos being mainstreamed into racing anytime soon.

Getting ready for a race I didn't make it to Saturday, I slapped together an old school paint scheme that some of you old farts can appreciate. It's not an exact Al Holbert replica, but an homage to that wicked 956 from the 80s.

I wish I had more bodies to paint... I have a ton of old school race car ideas in my head that I need to put to Lexan.
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Old 09-11-2006, 09:51 AM   #20468
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edit...sorry just used Search :P
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Last edited by Nexus; 09-11-2006 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:07 AM   #20469
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Nice paint jobs...

Lipos are mainstream are here already. The recent KO Propo Gran Prix ran lipos in all classes and allowed brushless in mod.
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:12 AM   #20470
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My new body on my rc12l4 factory team
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:26 AM   #20471
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Ok, I have enough trouble keeping my car off the walls. I don't need it catching on fire. Seriously, though, I don't see LiPos being mainstreamed into racing anytime soon.

Getting ready for a race I didn't make it to Saturday, I slapped together an old school paint scheme that some of you old farts can appreciate. It's not an exact Al Holbert replica, but an homage to that wicked 956 from the 80s.

I wish I had more bodies to paint... I have a ton of old school race car ideas in my head that I need to put to Lexan.
Doug,
Since you want more bodies to paint I can send you all of mine and you can homage yer ass off!

Seriously, that's beautiful. Simple, clean, and nostalgic.
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:43 AM   #20472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Funny you guys should mention it, I just drove a lipo 1/12th car today. It was a 12L4 with a 10 turn in it. Sorry I don't know much about lipos so I can't tell you what type and how many cells, but the owner said it was 7.4 volts. The car was so fast it was almost undrivable. Everyone who drove it was grinning ear to ear it was so much fun. I think it needed some throttle or esc adjustments because just touching the throttle would cause the car to leap forward, slow corners required careful modulation to negotiate them. You could hit the straight and with less than half throttle go faster than anything else on the track, then half way down punch it and it would spin the tires until the shut off point. It was so much fun i almost peed my pants
Damn that thing was fun to drive

For others who are curious, it was linger's 12L4, and IIRC it was a 2s2p 2.0ah 20C kokam. WAAAAYYYY too much motor/battery for that track, but definately a kick to drive, no battery fade, and tons of runtime. I think we stopped after 10 minutes when the speed control started thermaling

-James
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Old 09-11-2006, 12:18 PM   #20473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chupstar1000
My new body on my rc12l4 factory team

Gorgeous paint.
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Old 09-11-2006, 12:23 PM   #20474
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Just a curious question has anyone tried mounting two smaller Li-Po battery packs in tandem say two 1500 20C packs in tandom to make a 3000Mah 20C Li-Po saddle pack?

I have had requests from some for a saddle pack Li-Po and it appear that this maybe an answer and we will be testing this however just checking to see what those that run 1:12 scale think about it.
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Old 09-11-2006, 12:52 PM   #20475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBlack
Just a curious question has anyone tried mounting two smaller Li-Po battery packs in tandem say two 1500 20C packs in tandom to make a 3000Mah 20C Li-Po saddle pack?

I have had requests from some for a saddle pack Li-Po and it appear that this maybe an answer and we will be testing this however just checking to see what those that run 1:12 scale think about it.
Mr. Black - I had a 2s2P configuration using the Kokam 2.0Ah 15C cells. It was 4.0 Ah of goodness. I do have the 1.5Ah 20C cells and I imagine it would feel the pretty much the same power as the 2.0Ah cells but with less runtime. The 2.0Ah cells do take up too much room in a 1/12 scale. I chose the 2.0Ah cells over the 1.5Ah cells since it's closer to weight to a 4 cell pack.

You could possibly make a 2S4P with the .91 Ah cells to make a 3.64Ah saddle pack that would fit nicely into anything.

I wish you could have seen and drove that 1/12 scale. It was unbelieveable.
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