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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-09-2006, 03:09 PM   #20401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
Setting tweak:
Assemble the car as ready to run, minus body.
Place car on the edge of a table with front end hanging over the end of the table.
Have the tweak screws just touch the chassis.
Put a coin on both front wheels.
Slowly lift the car with a knife put under the middle hole in the chassis's front
The side on which the coin drops first the tweak screw has has to be screwed in further. Loosen the opposite screw as much as you screw in the first.
Repeat till both coins drop together.

Thanks alot. Thats what I was looking for.
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Old 09-09-2006, 03:28 PM   #20402
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Hey guys what about balance??? Placement of electrics? How does everyone do it, or do you not pay attention to that detail?



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Old 09-09-2006, 03:38 PM   #20403
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Originally Posted by hanknmorgan
Thanks alot. Thats what I was looking for.

I guess I got lucky on reassembly. I did the coin test several times and they seem to be falling at the same time. Alrighty then, next question. Whats the story with traction compound. I havent been able to get my car past half throttle without is spinning out even with VERY gradual application of throttle. I went and watched some racing today at my LHS and it seemed that all the guys were running traction compound. I thought that was only for carpet, but apparently not. What would you guys recommend I try for compound. I could only get one 1/12 guy to even talk to me and he even seemed a little annoyed but he said he used thq or something and some others use paragon, and something about sunscreen. I wish guys at the local track were are helpful as here on the forum. I would like to get started in racing, but it's pretty intimidating and everyone runs brushless which sucks for beginners trying to keep on the cheap.
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Old 09-09-2006, 05:01 PM   #20404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogtsaamokin
Hey guys what about balance??? Placement of electrics? How does everyone do it, or do you not pay attention to that detail?

Rogtsaamokin
I did...my Hyperform Razor and 12L4 have little holes front and back. I have a set of the Hudy balancing T's. With the batteries and electronics in, I am perfectly balanced.

Blake
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Old 09-09-2006, 05:02 PM   #20405
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yes you do want to run traction compound.there are alot of different combinations that people use and they all work very well.i use paragon and suntan lotion.what i do is i apply paragon to tires first doing the full rear tire on both and on the front i only put in on the inside 1/2 of the tire.i let it sit for about 15 minutes and then apply high SPF(30 plus) thin cheap watery suntan lotion over the top of the paragon.i leave it on until about 1 minute before my race and wipe the tires off really good.before you race do some slow runs through the corners to scrub the tires in to wipe off the remainder of the slick surface of the foam.you will feel it come into check.once the car feels locked down to the track,put her on the starting grid and lay it down!!
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Old 09-09-2006, 05:04 PM   #20406
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as for balance,the dr. covered that.i use the electronics placement for balance weights.move em around to balance the car.once you are there just mark the chassis with a sharpie marker and shoe goo or double sided tape them in place.
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Old 09-09-2006, 05:41 PM   #20407
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Here's how I balance my cars. It's a jig built by Chis Rhodes (Crimson Eagle) after an idea I had.
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Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 09-09-2006, 05:45 PM   #20408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
I did...my Hyperform Razor and 12L4 have little holes front and back. I have a set of the Hudy balancing T's. With the batteries and electronics in, I am perfectly balanced.

Blake

You can also use Trinity's no brainer body mount tools. Theyre $10 for four. I don't know how much the HUDY deals are but I bet the No Brainers are cheaper, and I have found they work just as well.
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Old 09-09-2006, 06:01 PM   #20409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Here's how I balance my cars. It's a jig built by Chis Rhodes (Crimson Eagle) after an idea I had.
I'll give you $20 shipped for the car and the jig
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Old 09-09-2006, 06:27 PM   #20410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogtsaamokin
Hey guys what about balance??? Placement of electrics? How does everyone do it, or do you not pay attention to that detail?



Rogtsaamokin
I appreciate everyone worries about it, but to a limited extent it is not worth worrying about.

The chassis we use is pivoted in the middle, so unbalance at the back doesn't affect the front. If you put a 2 ounce weight on one side of the rear pod, the 'coin drop' test will still work OK. Similarly, if you put a 2 ounce weight on one side of the chassis, you could still get the 'coin drop' test to work.

I've simply stuck to a reasonable layout where the speedo is on the left to try to balance the offset servo, and the receiver is as close to the middle as I can get it. Compared to the cells, they are miniscule amounts of weight, and since the chassis is articulated in the middle, it matters less.

I didn't see one of the IFMAR Worlds A finalists balancing a car side-to-side, and some of them fitted receiver packs during qualifying, and others swapped their NiCad packs for LiPo during the meeting - no balancing machines in sight! If there were a problem here, everyone would run the same layout because all the kit we use is roughly the same - but you see lots of different layouts with recever packs and LiPo regulators everywhere. Don't sweat it.
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:36 PM   #20411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Here's how I balance my cars. It's a jig built by Chis Rhodes (Crimson Eagle) after an idea I had.
I like that Mike. Very cool ...
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:53 PM   #20412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Here's how I balance my cars. It's a jig built by Chis Rhodes (Crimson Eagle) after an idea I had.
od--I'm sure he's not interested in making another such jig, but are there some drawings, etc? I'd happily buy some (even more happily commission him to build me one).

Thanks,

Scottrik
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Old 09-09-2006, 08:08 PM   #20413
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here is how I balance mine( very cheap)
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Old 09-09-2006, 08:10 PM   #20414
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In the parking lot test I experienced no glitching.
Can you tell I hate antennas sticking up through my bodies?
I used a hair dryer to soften the plastic and then ran it under cold water once I had it shaped like I wanted. I had to ream out the upper case of my spektrum just a bit to get the antenna tube to fit snug down in the case. It rotates also to allow the batteries to be removed & installed. It just clears the body without touching under the drivers bubble. Just thought some would like to see.
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Old 09-09-2006, 08:26 PM   #20415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
od--I'm sure he's not interested in making another such jig, but are there some drawings, etc? I'd happily buy some (even more happily commission him to build me one).

Thanks,

Scottrik
I don't think he has time to build more of them. About the best i can do is take more pictures of it and post them.
I really does work well, the car hangs there like a porch swing; you just shuffle the parts around until the pointer is in the middle and your done!
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