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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-08-2006, 10:52 AM   #20386
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Thanks guys for the tire sizes help........also that stock setup is great.
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Old 09-08-2006, 05:01 PM   #20387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
My standard stock setup for the 12L4 at the local track (medium bite ozite) is as follows:

Front:
.020 springs
10* reactive caster blocks spaced in the middle
Servo Flat - turnbuckles level and straight
Purple Parma Tires Sauced 1/3 of inside

Rear
35wt oil AE Silver spring
.075 T-Bar
90wt Oil
Double Pink Parma Tires Sauced Full (Niftec)

I have 2 questions about this setup:
1. For stock is there anything that might be better or to try?
2. For 19t what would you change? The car seemed to push a bit coming out of the corners compared with my stock setup.
.063 t bar give you more grip, run 20 wt oil in the shock, use stealth diff lube in the the plates, a try a copper spring instead of sliver. front end setup it fine rear too soft hence the push .
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Old 09-08-2006, 05:03 PM   #20388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
Does anyone know what glue would be comparable to the Evo stik Mark is using to repair foams, I searched it and it doesn't seem to be available in the US. Maybe a UHU product. Thanks
Any PVA base wood glue
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Old 09-08-2006, 05:17 PM   #20389
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What are people using as stands for their 1/12 cars while they work on 'em at the race or between races?

Scottrik
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Old 09-08-2006, 05:30 PM   #20390
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Red face Boston RC shop

Hi.
I live in Tokyo and love 1/12.
I'm planning to go to Bosoton for bussiness.
Though I don't have much time, of course, I want to go to a RC shop.

I want to buy RC12L4 kit. because I can buy it cheaper US than Japan.
If you know, please let me know where there are shops which can buy RC12L4.
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Old 09-09-2006, 01:27 AM   #20391
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Sorry smokling but absolutelty NO
PVA wood glue is not the way to go.

You need a contact adheisive. The volatile type that wayward kids get into trouble with glue sniffing!

Sorry I do not know american brands but I am surprised EvoStick is not international. What about Dunlop Thixofix ??

Cheers

Mark

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
Any PVA base wood glue
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Old 09-09-2006, 07:54 AM   #20392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
What are people using as stands for their 1/12 cars while they work on 'em at the race or between races?

Scottrik
My friend Kevin makes these for P-Dub...best car stand hands down. No swiveling, no excessive height, lightweight. Can't beat it.



http://www.pdubracing.com/products.htm
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Old 09-09-2006, 08:59 AM   #20393
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That looks like what I need!! Unfortunately, P-Dub shows it as out of stock.

What's the odds on getting a few of them from your buddy? If you want to e-mail me his contact info (or give him mine) I'd very much appreciate it. My e-mail is scottrik@noisymuse.com . I know I'd like 2-3 of them and I'm sure a couple guys here would take them as well, so it'd probably be worth his time to fill a box.

Scottrik
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Old 09-09-2006, 09:47 AM   #20394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
Does anyone know what glue would be comparable to the Evo stik Mark is using to repair foams, I searched it and it doesn't seem to be available in the US. Maybe a UHU product. Thanks
My dad & I use contact cement by DAP WELDWOOD.
Hardware stores, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. allways have it in stock for $3-$5.
It works great and has saved us hundreds.
Hope this helps.
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Old 09-09-2006, 10:00 AM   #20395
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Shag, is this what your talking about? Weldwood contact cement

Mark, nope, the Thixofix is not avail in US either. What Eovstik product is that youre using.

If anyone knows where I can purchace this stuff online or locally, let me know. I really like having it in a tube better than using a bottle.
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Last edited by Rob Phillips; 09-09-2006 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 09-09-2006, 10:20 AM   #20396
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Neo Motor in BMI 12th install

see this thread if you can help
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Old 09-09-2006, 11:11 AM   #20397
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I have a quick question everyone. I posted a few weeks back about rc12l4 setup on asphalt. I just purchased a used one. Anyway, I have had the change to dissasemble the car about and learn how it works, as well as check out some important measurements. My car does have the .063 t bar in it and .020 or whatever front springs. I put the softest spring I have on the VCS shock. I dont have a green one as recommended. The one I have is black. Anyway, I was wondering how to set the tweak on a t bar car. I know about the tweak screws from rebuilding car, but how do I set them correctly? I was surprised to find in the RC12l4 manual that there wasnt much direction on properly setting tweak. Thanks for your help in advance.

-Hank
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Old 09-09-2006, 12:53 PM   #20398
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Setting tweak:
Assemble the car as ready to run, minus body.
Place car on the edge of a table with front end hanging over the end of the table.
Have the tweak screws just touch the chassis.
Put a coin on both front wheels.
Slowly lift the car with a knife put under the middle hole in the chassis's front
The side on which the coin drops first the tweak screw has has to be screwed in further. Loosen the opposite screw as much as you screw in the first.
Repeat till both coins drop together.
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Old 09-09-2006, 01:03 PM   #20399
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That's the same method I use. I was also told to tap down on the rollover antenna after changing the tweak screws to reset the suspension.
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Old 09-09-2006, 01:39 PM   #20400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radio_car_racer
Neo Motor in BMI 12th install

see this thread if you can help
I ran the Neo motor on my BMI DB12 and I had to install a 88 spur and grind of a little bit of the top plate to clear the wire/solder taps on the motor, takes a little time but it will fit.
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