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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-07-2006, 04:13 AM   #20371
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Shock oil is too thin. Silicone diff lube works though. I have seen people putting anything from 10,000-50,000 on the tubes. The Calandra lube is about the best though. It is also only $2.99 per bottle.
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Old 09-07-2006, 05:27 AM   #20372
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Ok this weekend i am meant to be running an old CRC on low grip carpet. Traction additive is not aloud at the meeting but i can apply plenty until then.

Basically i need your help with a few areas that i dont know anything about (im a touring car driver)

1.) Tyres.
I have a set of tyres on the car that are quite high profile. Will this be ok? I have been coating them in additive at the rear every now and then. Is this correct?

2.) Rear pod ride height. As far as i can see there is only around 2mm ride height at the very back of the car. I am aware this point will not move with suspension travel but will the tyres wear 2mm in around 5 runs (on low grip carpet)

3.) The two damper tubes
Do you just grease these up and that is it? they are not meant to be sealed or anything?

4.) Small springs on the center plate.
There is a screw on the top that adjusts the height of the spring. i have them set so when the car is stood the springs are just touching the balls.

5.)Diff
I have the standard small diff on the car and i need to know how tight to set it. Should i set it so it just slips a little? I tried racing an older pan car and as soon as the rear wheels start to loose traction the car just spins. I have however been tld the diff is not designed to slip so :S If i did set it loose i would not nail the throttle i would still feed it in slowly so i didnt burn the diff out. What do you recommend?


Any other things you can see that are wrong please tell me.

The files are all in this folder.

I didnt want to make you lot have to scroll through them all to read thhe post underneath. lol

Thanks,

http://www.uk-rc.net/images/12th
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Old 09-07-2006, 06:20 AM   #20373
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Does anyone know what glue would be comparable to the Evo stik Mark is using to repair foams, I searched it and it doesn't seem to be available in the US. Maybe a UHU product. Thanks
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Old 09-07-2006, 06:39 AM   #20374
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Ok i have found some of those black inserts that will raise the ride height alot.

I found them on the older carpet knife.

what is required to change them? and can you just add spacers underneat the rear pod to lower the ride height?
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Old 09-07-2006, 07:33 AM   #20375
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There are different inserts with the holes in different places. you will need to find the 2 that make the axle at the correct height to give yourself around 4mm ride height.
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Old 09-07-2006, 08:01 AM   #20376
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Ok, the ones i have look like they will make a significant difference in ride height.They have a number 4 on them.. mean anything?

After reading markpaynes blog about 1/12th i realise there is alot more to it than i originally thought.

That car of his is bloody nice.
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Old 09-07-2006, 08:14 AM   #20377
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The original ride height adjusters from Associated and Calandra are numbered 1 through 4 and, iir, make about a 1 mm difference in ride height each. I don't recall now if there's a particular rhyme or reason to them, or what it may have been, just be sure you find matched pairs and that they're inserted in the same orientation.

The IRS adjusters allow 1/2 mm changes and their numbering is very easy to follow, as long as you remember that when you're above center you decrease the number to add ride height and when you're below center you increase to increase.

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Old 09-07-2006, 08:23 AM   #20378
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Thanks,

I think i will probably have to true my tires down as the number 4 inserts look like they are the highest ride height.
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Old 09-07-2006, 08:46 AM   #20379
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Hey peyhoe,

check this web blog:

http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/20...front-end.html

This will explain a great deal about the carpet knife and the Asso front suspension.

This could help you with some of your questions.

After checking your pics:
Rear Pod should be level with the chassis when all 4 wheels are on the ground, you can change this by altering the centre spring collar. Check the ride height again when the pod is level...

Take care of your tires, at higher diameters height they easily chunk resulting in less grip. I true my tyres to +/- 43mm for front and rear +/-47mm.

In the damper tubes I mainly use the light grease that comes with the kit. You can also use diff grease or heavy shock oil.

Small springs are ok... Only when you alter the rear pod you should also change the preload on these. Actually these springs are used to set the tweak...

But read the blog and than start building...
I used Mark's tips and it really helped a lot. My car became more consistent.

If you do these changes you should be fine

Greetz

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Old 09-07-2006, 09:36 AM   #20380
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Cheers
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Old 09-07-2006, 02:24 PM   #20381
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What are the size of the front and rear tires should I trued to for indoor carpet (stock or 19T)...? Thanks........
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Old 09-07-2006, 02:41 PM   #20382
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i cant remeber the metric equivalent but here is the standard measurements.

fronts: 1.69"
rears: 1.79"

this is a good place to start them at.

-Zac
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Old 09-08-2006, 06:54 AM   #20383
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My standard stock setup for the 12L4 at the local track (medium bite ozite) is as follows:

Front:
.020 springs
10* reactive caster blocks spaced in the middle
Servo Flat - turnbuckles level and straight
Purple Parma Tires Sauced 1/3 of inside

Rear
35wt oil AE Silver spring
.075 T-Bar
90wt Oil
Double Pink Parma Tires Sauced Full (Niftec)

I have 2 questions about this setup:
1. For stock is there anything that might be better or to try?
2. For 19t what would you change? The car seemed to push a bit coming out of the corners compared with my stock setup.
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Old 09-08-2006, 10:19 AM   #20384
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Fro stock maybe try some grey rears. They should let you float through the corner a little better. Pushing.... maybe try pink rears, and magenta fronts, and sauce the front tires to like 1/2-2/3.

-Korey
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Old 09-08-2006, 10:22 AM   #20385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
My standard stock setup for the 12L4 at the local track (medium bite ozite) is as follows:

Front:
.020 springs
10* reactive caster blocks spaced in the middle
Servo Flat - turnbuckles level and straight
Purple Parma Tires Sauced 1/3 of inside

Rear
35wt oil AE Silver spring
.075 T-Bar
90wt Oil
Double Pink Parma Tires Sauced Full (Niftec)

I have 2 questions about this setup:
1. For stock is there anything that might be better or to try?
2. For 19t what would you change? The car seemed to push a bit coming out of the corners compared with my stock setup.
Understeer out of the corner --> use a stiffer center spring (blue) or heavier center shock oil.
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