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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-06-2006, 01:38 PM   #20356
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Default Spectrum DSM review

Hi all

I have just updated www.12thrc.com with my review of the Spektrum DSM conversion for the KO Vantage.

I realise that stick radios may be a weird thing in the US but in Europe, this is what we do (!) and I wanted to stay with my Vantage and go Spektrum.

The 2006/2007 UK 1/2th season is comming.......

Cheers

Mark
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Old 09-06-2006, 01:56 PM   #20357
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I don't know if this has been posted already...

New Pics of the 12x

U.S Spec:



Corally Spec:


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Old 09-06-2006, 01:59 PM   #20358
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Wow, a Corally 12th scale car that can use wheels that the rest of the world uses... that only took 25 years. Ooooooh, but the chassis is drilled for an Associated front end. Nice!!
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Old 09-06-2006, 02:24 PM   #20359
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I am curious...

If you buy the U.S. spec and put an Associated front end or a CRC front end on this car like Spashett used to win the Worlds, what makes it significantly different than the other t-bar style cars that are already on the market?
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Old 09-06-2006, 02:28 PM   #20360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianrice
I am curious...

If you buy the U.S. spec and put an Associated front end or a CRC front end on this car like Spashett used to win the Worlds, what makes it significantly different than the other t-bar style cars that are already on the market?
The Corally body post makes the car faster and handle better
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Old 09-06-2006, 02:31 PM   #20361
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What makes ANY T-bar car different? They all vary slightly from one to another, yet most will swear by their favorite car. There aren't any real NEW ideas floating around in the way of envelope-pushing designs, but every manufacturer does build their mousetrap slightly differently.

Corally does have exceptionally high standards for build quality. I wouldn't expect anything less. I bet the car is beautiful in craftsmanship, but that doesn't make it perform any better on the track.
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Old 09-06-2006, 06:31 PM   #20362
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I posted this in the 23turn thread does anyone know what would be a good 23t motor for 4-cell 1/12th roadcourse I need laydown brush setup something with a good amount of RPM and where online I can purchase this motor with a part number
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Old 09-06-2006, 06:34 PM   #20363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P2
35mm rollout for 3*
30mm rollout for 4*

This is for a large outdoor track (120ft straight), adjust down for smaller tracks.
Really? What motor? No experience with pan cars, but with my TA04 (silver can motor) on a 100' straight I was running 45-49 rollout.
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Old 09-06-2006, 08:02 PM   #20364
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What servo saver are you guys using with the JR Z3550 servo? I have several Kimbroughs laying around, but they all are for Futaba and Hitec servos. The Kimbrough site doesn't mention anything fitting JR servos...

A part # would be most helpful.. Thanks guys
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Old 09-06-2006, 08:17 PM   #20365
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You can use the Kimbrough servo saver part# 113 That servo saver fits all: Airtronics,JR and KO servo's hope this helps.
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Old 09-06-2006, 08:41 PM   #20366
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Is 1.66" too small to run jaco single stage pink rear tires on ozite? I am running the crc lowered rear pod and can get a 4 mm ride height all around. I have a bag of used tires and am weeding out useless tires. This is just for a novice club racer.
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Old 09-07-2006, 01:58 AM   #20367
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Man that Corally is one sexy beeatch. If only they made a T-barless version.

I wonder how that front end works.
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Old 09-07-2006, 03:07 AM   #20368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Is 1.66" too small to run jaco single stage pink rear tires on ozite? I am running the crc lowered rear pod and can get a 4 mm ride height all around. I have a bag of used tires and am weeding out useless tires. This is just for a novice club racer.
Ive been told that is when they are the fastest..
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Old 09-07-2006, 03:11 AM   #20369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
What makes ANY T-bar car different? They all vary slightly from one to another, yet most will swear by their favorite car. There aren't any real NEW ideas floating around in the way of envelope-pushing designs, but every manufacturer does build their mousetrap slightly differently.

Corally does have exceptionally high standards for build quality. I wouldn't expect anything less. I bet the car is beautiful in craftsmanship, but that doesn't make it perform any better on the track.

The bad things with pan cars, is you can only do so much with flat grafite, and fiberglass.. The other thing to look at is if it aint broke dont fix it.. BUT.. Companies are always forced to put out a new car.. Why?? SALES..

People who have lets say brand x car get to a point where they feel they have tried everything to make it fast.. But what they fail to do is try stuff they have already tried.. So they go out and buy a new car, they think its going to be better, then they go faster.. But the true thing is they try all the old stuff again because its a new car..

The corally also looks like it has extra t plate adjustment holes.. would be cool to see different length t plates.. This was something new being tested on oval cars.. it greatley affect handling.. i hope thats what thats for..


im just getting back into road racing.. I have been an oval racer for many years.. The cars we used were all basically the same.. and like any other pan type car, they use basically all the same parts.. Just a few small geometry changes, but thats it.. new cars come out to re gain lost sales..

I finnally figured that out one year at the 200 navak race.. the TC3 had just come out, and it was the cats azz.. I ran a 5 year old kyosho TF2 with the atlas chassis conversion.. I got laughed at, and was the only kysho in house.. I qulified 11th out of 89 guys in my class.. I was less then a 1000th out of the show.. Find a car you feel you can tune on, and one that fits your style.. stick with it, and dont be afraid to try old ideas..
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Old 09-07-2006, 04:02 AM   #20370
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To all the guys running damper tubes:

Can I also use shock oil on it as well. What weight would be good for asphalt tracks?
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