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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-03-2006, 08:44 PM   #20326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diggity
Just wanted to let everyone know that the D12 V2 kit is now available to purchase. If you would like to purchase one then go here: D12 V2

Here are some pics of the black production kit:





If you would like to see more pics then go here: Pics
how do you put the batts in
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Old 09-03-2006, 08:55 PM   #20327
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how do you put the batts in
you supposed to put batteries in??
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Old 09-04-2006, 12:29 AM   #20328
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
how do you put the batts in

I would assume the center plate un screws and lift to allow the battery to be inserted.. then screws down to hold the pack in snug.. in..
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Old 09-04-2006, 12:33 AM   #20329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedigler
Hey guys another question here. I am building my Carpet Knife and was wondering do you guys that have one sand the battery slots or bevel them with the hobby knife? I tried the hobby knife but it does not seem to bevel it too much. Ok one more question. What do you guys use to trim the steering blocks? I tried the hobby knife with a fresh blade but it does not want to go all the way through. Thanks again for all the help

The Digler

I just picked up a crc t force.. I was going to bevel my lots as weell, but i nioticed they are a bit over sized.. Beveling them would make the battery sit to low, and stick out of the chassis.. All i had to do was sand off the sharp edge, with some 120 grit sand paper.. Im not sure if the Cf is the same size slots, nut i would assume they are..

On my oval cars i bought a dremel bit the same diameter of a cell.. Put the dremel on an extremeley low speed and place it in the slot like a cell would site.. run it back and forth a few times until the right edge is removed.. Be very carefull not to remove to much.. Thn i use a cone tip bit to remove and angle the edges on the side of the slot... If done right it turns out perfect every time..
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Old 09-04-2006, 01:38 AM   #20330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diggity
Just wanted to let everyone know that the D12 V2 kit is now available to purchase. If you would like to purchase one then go here: D12 V2

Here are some pics of the black production kit:





If you would like to see more pics then go here: Pics
Looks nice! Could you explain how the rear suspension works?
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Old 09-04-2006, 01:46 AM   #20331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
how do you put the batts in
To put the batteries in and take them out, you will have to pop one side of the ballcups on each dampener and also the shock, then three screws! Beats tapeing and it becomes a habit after a couple times of doing it

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Old 09-04-2006, 01:50 AM   #20332
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Looks nice! Could you explain how the rear suspension works?
The rear Ubrace and bottom pod plate use a three spring suspension design, there is a middle spring that is adjustable (using different lb springs) that allows the pod to move side to side and front to back, there are two springs on both sides of the Ubrace (similar to a CRC) that is also adjustable (using different lb springs). Then on top there is the center shock and the two dampener tubes. Hopefully that kinda answers your question!!
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Old 09-04-2006, 02:07 AM   #20333
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Interesting concept!
How do you make sure the center sping pivots freely? It looks like the rear suspension pivots around the center screw's head?
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Old 09-04-2006, 02:58 AM   #20334
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Question 12r gurus: Just ran carpet 12th for the first time. My motor was SUPER HOT !!! I dropped two teeth and it was better and still hot. My gearing is on for asphalt but at the carpet track the motor was getting ultra hot! Is that normal?? The gearing felt appropriate for the track size and layout. Komodo 19t.
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Old 09-04-2006, 06:25 AM   #20335
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I have experience with 1/12 on carpet, but could it be the fur getting stuck somewhere in your bearings or whereever that might load up the motor?
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Old 09-04-2006, 06:26 AM   #20336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Is there any way to get the front end grip to come down at the beginning of the heat, and stay consistant for the whole 8 minutes? For about the first minute and a half or so, the front grip is so high, it is on the verge of spinning out. After that, it is fine for the remainder of the race. Is there any way to make it the same for 8 minutes?

It maybe that your rears are not fully dry before you hit the track. Are you rubbing the additive into the foams with an old towel/rag, back and front in the last 8 mins before your heat starts?

If you don't it can give the effect of over-steer as the foams are still moist on the surface = slippy rear end
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Old 09-04-2006, 10:23 AM   #20337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Is there any way to get the front end grip to come down at the beginning of the heat, and stay consistant for the whole 8 minutes? For about the first minute and a half or so, the front grip is so high, it is on the verge of spinning out. After that, it is fine for the remainder of the race. Is there any way to make it the same for 8 minutes?
Mike Dunnigan, former 1/12 national champ, used to run very small fronts, but would dope the whole tire so it remained consistent for the whole race. This was a couple years ago, and he ran the "new" AE front end, which you can run smaller tires on than average. I think his fronts were in the 1.6-1.7" range. This may not be the whole story, but he did tell me about it at a race a few years ago. Super nice guy.
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Old 09-04-2006, 10:48 AM   #20338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAL
Question 12r gurus: Just ran carpet 12th for the first time. My motor was SUPER HOT !!! I dropped two teeth and it was better and still hot. My gearing is on for asphalt but at the carpet track the motor was getting ultra hot! Is that normal?? The gearing felt appropriate for the track size and layout. Komodo 19t.
Hi Ral,

I dont have any 12th scale expereice but I can tell you that the KD's get HOT!! They pull huge amps and require a little different motor setup because of this. I cant help you out on Rollout as I dont race 12th scale but I can tell you that you can take a little off the edge of the brush either .010 off the trailing or .005 off the leading and trailing and it will reduce the amp draw a little and help with the heat.

But from my expereince I dont usually worry about motor temps as long as the motor is not fading more than normal during a 5 or 8 minute run and the motor is not burning up.

Hope this helps.

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Old 09-04-2006, 10:58 AM   #20339
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you arent kidding about amp draw eric.with those top fuel F brushes you sent me,my KD was drawing 13.5 amps at 1.5 volts
i did like you said with cutting the trailing edge and it dropped to 10 amps.my RPM increased and the motor was one pissed off 19 turn.fast as hell.it did get kinda warm but it ran awesome.
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Old 09-04-2006, 12:35 PM   #20340
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i did like you said with cutting the trailing edge and it dropped to 10 amps.my RPM increased and the motor was one pissed off 19 turn.fast as hell.it did get kinda warm but it ran awesome.
we've been doing it for the last 3 or 4 years in 12th in the UK with fixed timing on the BRCA legal motors.
Glyn Ward aka BRM Motors in the UK 1 st posted about it on Racechat. You should try his upright brush motor on 58mmpr (2.263 rollout). He's always saying we're undergeared
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