R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-31-2006, 07:28 AM   #20296
Tech Elite
 
Turbonium's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,302
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to Turbonium
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
Any one running GQ's? I wanted to know what compounds have been working for 19t carpet. Thanks
hey Rob... i have some of those i have run before... when i get home, ill check the compounds again.

one thing i do like about them is that they make front dual compounds, like the TC's...
__________________
Wes

Team Novak
Turbonium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2006, 08:07 AM   #20297
Tech Master
 
Rob Phillips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Indianapolis / VA
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

GQ's seem to be very good tires, excellent wear on nitro. I am going to pick up a couple sets, just not sure what compounds to get.
__________________
Team Durango | TrakPower | DE Racing | Futaba | Restricted Paint Worx

Velocity R/C Magazine - vrcmag.com
Rob Phillips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2006, 08:17 AM   #20298
Tech Master
 
Rob Phillips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Indianapolis / VA
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

How do you guys line up your servos?

I have a Rev4 and I will using a 94145 mounted flat to the chassis. Obviously it has to be centered, but what about tie rod angles, both front to rear and up and down. I have seen a few different ways of doing it, some of them even mount the ball studs on the opposite side (pointing toward the servo). Also, which holes in the servo saver (Kimbro) would I use with this servo mounted flat. Thanks
__________________
Team Durango | TrakPower | DE Racing | Futaba | Restricted Paint Worx

Velocity R/C Magazine - vrcmag.com
Rob Phillips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2006, 08:25 AM   #20299
Tech Elite
 
Turbonium's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 2,302
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to Turbonium
Default

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/MikeDumasCle03.html

pic of Dumas' cleveland car... i have mine mounted like that. need to remove the blue from the AE mounts, tho... everything else is silver.
__________________
Wes

Team Novak
Turbonium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2006, 08:47 AM   #20300
Tech Elite
 
squarehead's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wheaton, Illinois
Posts: 4,210
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to squarehead Send a message via MSN to squarehead Send a message via Yahoo to squarehead Send a message via Skype™ to squarehead
Default

Rob, lay flat is the best in this car. Some guys will ShoeGoo the servo down (which is how I think that chassis previously had it in there). I preferred to drill holes and securely mount the servo with aluminum mounts. Better piece of mind for me, because I know I'm going to hit things. Front to back angle of the ti-rods isn't as important as the height to the steering knuckle links. Parallel to the ground is perfect.


doug
__________________
Everything depends.
Nothing is always.
Everything is sometimes.

Last edited by squarehead; 11-29-2010 at 03:58 PM.
squarehead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2006, 08:47 AM   #20301
Tech Master
 
Rob Phillips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Indianapolis / VA
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for the pic. I found another pic from that link that shows the car from above.
__________________
Team Durango | TrakPower | DE Racing | Futaba | Restricted Paint Worx

Velocity R/C Magazine - vrcmag.com

Last edited by Rob Phillips; 08-31-2006 at 08:58 AM.
Rob Phillips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2006, 08:54 AM   #20302
Tech Master
 
Rob Phillips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Indianapolis / VA
Posts: 1,722
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

OK thanks again Doug. That's something I wasn't really able to tell in the pics (parallel to ground). I was going by the spot on the chassis that was already milled out. Actually, I cleaned up the car right nice. I replaced all the screws with stainless, cleaned up all the dremel work, rebuilt the rear. It's getting there. I still need to get some Ti turnbuckles, what size did you end up going with.
__________________
Team Durango | TrakPower | DE Racing | Futaba | Restricted Paint Worx

Velocity R/C Magazine - vrcmag.com
Rob Phillips is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2006, 09:05 AM   #20303
Tech Elite
 
squarehead's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wheaton, Illinois
Posts: 4,210
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to squarehead Send a message via MSN to squarehead Send a message via Yahoo to squarehead Send a message via Skype™ to squarehead
Default

Rob, I used Lunsford 1.375" on the trailing links and Lunsford 1.625" on the steering linkage.
__________________
Everything depends.
Nothing is always.
Everything is sometimes.
squarehead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2006, 11:36 AM   #20304
Tech Master
 
timmay70's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,702
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Rob, lay flat is the best in this car. Some guys will ShoeGoo the servo down (which is how I think that chassis previously had it in there). I preferred to drill holes and securely mount the servo with aluminum mounts. Better piece of mind for me, because I know I'm going to hit things. Front to back angle of the ti-rods isn't as important as the height to the steering knuckle links. Parallel to the ground is perfect.


doug
Bruce told me that mounting the servo almost as far forward (centered) was pretty important, as it effects the ackerman. Just a thought...
__________________
Speed Merchant Rev7, Tekin, TQ Racing (wire), Team Tamale
RC Excitement - Buy where you race, support your local tracks.
ROAR #105242
timmay70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2006, 08:13 PM   #20305
Tech Adept
 
BimmerDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: PA
Posts: 178
Default

I guess it's time to add a 1/12 adapter to my touring car tire truer. I'm looking at an RD Logics or 3Racing. Both will fit my truer, does anyone here have experience with either of these? The RDL (the blue one) has a pin that appears to extend into the back of the wheel. The 3Racing adapter (the other one ) appears only to have a step to locate the wheel.

Also, anyone have any experience with rcmart???

TIA
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-0e_2.jpg   1/12 forum-b111eqer.jpg  
BimmerDriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2006, 01:54 AM   #20306
Tech Elite
 
Anthony.L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Federal Way, WA
Posts: 2,701
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

You want an arbor with a step to center the wheel, not a pin.
Anthony.L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2006, 03:12 AM   #20307
Tech Master
 
burbs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 1,152
Send a message via AIM to burbs Send a message via Yahoo to burbs
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Hey burbs, is your avatar meant to say kiss your azz or are you saying come and get it?

It mean kiss my azz.. thats why it says dont take it personally under it LOl..

No one, and i mean no one is ever going to be invited to get anything..
burbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2006, 03:17 AM   #20308
Tech Master
 
burbs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 1,152
Send a message via AIM to burbs Send a message via Yahoo to burbs
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Rob, lay flat is the best in this car. Some guys will ShoeGoo the servo down (which is how I think that chassis previously had it in there). I preferred to drill holes and securely mount the servo with aluminum mounts. Better piece of mind for me, because I know I'm going to hit things. Front to back angle of the ti-rods isn't as important as the height to the steering knuckle links. Parallel to the ground is perfect.


doug

I hevnt done it with 12th scale, but ive run oval for many years.. I tried laying the servo flat, and it works well with the block style front end.. But if you use the dynamic style. ive found angle servo mounts to work alot better.. Since the dynamic front end allows for camber gain, it seems to work better being able to angle the tie rods up or down..
burbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2006, 03:18 AM   #20309
Tech Master
 
burbs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 1,152
Send a message via AIM to burbs Send a message via Yahoo to burbs
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony.L
You want an arbor with a step to center the wheel, not a pin.

It has a step for the wheel// the pin is to keep the wheel from spining/slipping on the arbor while truing..
burbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2006, 07:06 AM   #20310
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,625
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerDriver
I guess it's time to add a 1/12 adapter to my touring car tire truer. I'm looking at an RD Logics or 3Racing. Both will fit my truer, does anyone here have experience with either of these? The RDL (the blue one) has a pin that appears to extend into the back of the wheel. The 3Racing adapter (the other one ) appears only to have a step to locate the wheel.

Also, anyone have any experience with rcmart???

TIA
I have this one and it works well. Plus you can buy it from someone who knows RC and is in the states. And is a cool person.

http://rc4less.safeshopper.com/5/210.htm?318

Good luck.
EVILGRAFX is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (1 members and 1 guests)
Peakki
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:06 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0