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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-30-2006, 06:24 AM   #20266
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hey

i have been told its a L3 with a CRC rear end is this true if not what is it?

also i know its missing a damper tube
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:19 AM   #20267
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Hey guys I'm a 1/12 scale newb, just ordered a Carpet Knife.I have a few questions to ask you all. OK here goes:

1) any building tips and tricks other than the ones on Lufaso's site and Mark Payne's site?
2) I've seen most cars have the graphite servo saver brace, is this needed?
3) what type of servo saver should i get....im thinking of getting the futaba 9602 servo so i would need one that fits this servo--also on a tight carpet track should i mount it on the chassis or with the angled mounts
4) the GTX speedo is there any fit issues with this?
5) I have the grey spektrum reciever, are there any fit issues with it or compatablity issues with the 9602 or the GTX
6) after reading many pages of this thread i see that alot of you guys use the 16ga wire for the GTX from castle creations. Is this neccessary for the Carpet Knife or will the stock wire from the GTX work
7) Lastly are there any must have items for the car that are needed, hop ups different arms etc.

Thanks for taking the time to read this, any help is appreciated greatly.

The Digler
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:34 AM   #20268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by {VIC_RDX}
hey

i have been told its a L3 with a CRC rear end is this true if not what is it?

also i know its missing a damper tube
It looks like a CRC 6-pack.
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:34 AM   #20269
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Digler, I can help you with a couple of your Q's.

As for servos, read the last two page, good info on servo selection. I think the the GTX and the Spektrum Rx should fit fine. The stock wires also will work, most guys are using smaller wires since they can get away with it and save some weight and incread wire flexabilty.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:34 AM   #20270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianrice
It looks like a CRC 6-pack.
My thoughts too.
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:36 AM   #20271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedigler
Hey guys I'm a 1/12 scale newb, just ordered a Carpet Knife.I have a few questions to ask you all. OK here goes:

1) any building tips and tricks other than the ones on Lufaso's site and Mark Payne's site?
2) I've seen most cars have the graphite servo saver brace, is this needed?
3) what type of servo saver should i get....im thinking of getting the futaba 9602 servo so i would need one that fits this servo--also on a tight carpet track should i mount it on the chassis or with the angled mounts
4) the GTX speedo is there any fit issues with this?
5) I have the grey spektrum reciever, are there any fit issues with it or compatablity issues with the 9602 or the GTX
6) after reading many pages of this thread i see that alot of you guys use the 16ga wire for the GTX from castle creations. Is this neccessary for the Carpet Knife or will the stock wire from the GTX work
7) Lastly are there any must have items for the car that are needed, hop ups different arms etc.

Thanks for taking the time to read this, any help is appreciated greatly.

The Digler
1)make sure verything moves without binding and seal the edges of the carbon pieces with CA.
2)not neccessary, just makes your servo saver survive impacts better
3)the 9602 is fine servo. Kimbrough makes the industry's standard servo savers. there's probably one included in the kit
4)no problems
5)should work fine
6)not absolutely neccessary. just make sure the rear pod's movement is free
7)just aquire some side springs in different weights. the car comes with all you want out of the box (if you get the red version)
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:39 AM   #20272
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thedigler,

I can help with a few of your questions.

The spectrum receiver will work fine and I believe the speedo will as well (I've never owned one tho)

As far as angled or mounting the servo flat, this will start a debate. This is a good thing because I am thinking of mounting mine flat and would like some input. I do know they work well either way.

For hop ups I highly recomend getting the titanium front axels, new machined delrin A arms and the CRC front shims (anything but the washers that come standard).

The 16 ga wire is just lighter and a little more flexable so that it won't introduce a false tweek on the rear pod. Your only using 4 cells, so a heavier gauge is not needed, but what you have now is fine.

Lastly, you may want to get a bumper on the car till you get used to it to help keep the body from cutting the front tires as you bump into things.
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:40 AM   #20273
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thanks for the quick replies I did order the red version so I should be ok then. I also got all the side springs and the heavy crc tube lube. Again thanks alot.
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Old 08-30-2006, 08:43 AM   #20274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg45231
As far as angled or mounting the servo flat, this will start a debate. This is a good thing because I am thinking of mounting mine flat and would like some input. I do know they work well either way.
The angled servo definately gives you more initial turn in. I believe the CRC guys swear by the angled servo on the CK. It's all personal preference though.

BTW, I have an L4 with the servo mounted flat and a 3.2R with the angled servo.
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Old 08-30-2006, 09:21 AM   #20275
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I just ordered a 3.2R to! Some good tips here, thanks. Also, what tires does the kit come with (I dont have it jet) ? Does the kit include crc tube lube?

Thanks,

-Hugo
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Old 08-30-2006, 09:31 AM   #20276
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Your kit should come with a tube of Associated diff lube (I prefer the Niftech, but you know about opinions, right?) and a bottle of CRC "thin" tube lube (I never use the thin so I've got, like, four bottles of the stuff).

Tires? My kits were pre- Pro Cuts so it came with Track Magnets (which I can't fit on my truer) purple fronts and grey rears. A couple possible scenarios...they use up the Track Magnets in the kits so that's what you get OR you SCORE and get some Pro Cuts. I'd bet grey rear and purple fronts.

Have fun!!

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Old 08-30-2006, 09:43 AM   #20277
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Any thoughts of GQ tires?

I run them on ntro tc, and love them. What's your opinion (yep, I asked for it ) on these tires and what compounds to run.
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Old 08-30-2006, 09:50 AM   #20278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Your axle in black is a Trinity. They have the counterweighted clamping hub. Niftech axles and hubs only come in polished aluminum.
If you've never had Niftech diff, you are missing the Ferrari of 1/12th diffs.

All the axles I use (Niftech or IRS) use two 1/4x3/8 flanged bearings on the axle, two of the same on the in and outside of the right hub and one 1/4x3/8 unflanged on the spur. I don't think it matters if you use an unflanged bearing on the inside of the right hub though.

Trinity, didn't think of that, probably from a switch blade. I took apart the rear and the bearings are as you said, but the the flanged bearing was on the spur, it appears that either will work there, same as the inside the hub. I switched those two and put the unflanged on the spur. Chech out Avidrc.com for bearings, you can't beat that deal with a stick. Very high quality bearings, been using there bearings in my 1/8 clutch bells for years.
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Old 08-30-2006, 01:52 PM   #20279
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Thanks... so the Thin lube is it useless?
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Old 08-30-2006, 02:07 PM   #20280
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I wouldn't say it's useless, just that I don't use it. Combination of our carpet (only unrolled every two weeks Oct-Mar), my car(s) and my driving style I always end up needing to dial in more steering (always have an on-power push) and one thing that helps is heavier fluid. I like the medium (they call it "heavy") CRC fluid with the white cap. I've also had good results with the Losi Hydra-drive fluid. I've never had a bottle of the CRC "extra heavy" (always out of stock it seems) but will try it this season and see what I think.

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