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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 12-06-2002, 03:31 PM   #2011
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Post Switchblade front end

Good start Kevin but u didn't follow through, I have an old EV10 Parking lot basher goes like hell love the front end nice and tight no slop. Takes stick packs too. No STUPID tape. Camber is easy to adjust (RPM GAUGE) But how do set caster other than visually . Does anyone make a set up tool for the TRINITY?? I hve 2 L3's 1for stock, 1 for mod the front ends are really sloppy and were right from new. Does anyone make front springs that don't sag .I think its time to go CRCorTRINITY. Cant make up my mind. Help !!!
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Old 12-06-2002, 03:36 PM   #2012
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Old fart......you can use the RPM camber gauge to check castor just use it relative it the king pin that works for me or just eye ball it. Im not sure what you mean by springs that dont sag....all springs will wear out over time and the more you hit stuff the faster they wear out......or if they sag from the package use some gold motor washers to take up the slag on the kingpin.
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Old 12-06-2002, 10:37 PM   #2013
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Old Fart I just built a front end for a L3 and it was far from sloppy the asc. front end is very nice I like it better than my trinity but in all I like the switchblade better but that is besides the point. I would check out that front end again maybe something got put together wrong.
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Old 12-08-2002, 08:23 AM   #2014
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I have not run 12th in two years wanted to know what is the best moter to run 12th stock 4 cell carpet a rather larg track help please.
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Old 12-08-2002, 02:53 PM   #2015
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You should have a look at the Integy V10 or V10R.
For a larger track, it would be the V10 (higher RPM).
The motor comes with advanced timing briushes, but swapping them out for Reddy 766's or 767's work well also.

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Old 12-08-2002, 03:25 PM   #2016
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Old 12-08-2002, 04:48 PM   #2017
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i would actually sugges the new trinity monster pro instead (and the pro's are considerably better than the regular motors for some reason, normally this is not the case with trinity). i have dynoed and run both at my track, and the v10 (either version) has around the same rpm (if not a little less) but alot less torque than the monster pro, also the integies can burn up alot eaiser than the monsters if over geared.
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Old 12-08-2002, 09:31 PM   #2018
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I also suggest using the Monster Pro's. I use them in both 1/12th and touring cars. Both using reedy 767 brushes and red for + and green for - poles. This setup works the best I have found.
I also have to say something for TRINITY. I am DISSSAPOINTED with their customer service. I wanted to buy a swb 2 SE and Trinity said they would sell direct for a woppping $299.99. I in turn called my local shop RC Madness in Enfield,CT, and Chris had checked stock and ordered ordered one for me at a greater discount than Trinity. Now here's the problem. Trinity says it was shipped and when the invoice came in it was stated on B/O(backorder). So... My every intention to buy this car has been foiled. In turn I bought probably the hottest car currently, Bloody carpet Six Pack. A little more expensive, but I KNOW Calandra stands behind his product.
In closing, WE are what made Trinity what it is today, Hopefully they will change.
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Old 12-09-2002, 02:30 PM   #2019
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www.speedworldraceway.com has a couple Yokomo YRX-12 cars in stock for $199.99.
TLR, Spektrum, Tekin, SMC, MO-GRIP, www.factory-rc.com https://www.shapeways.com/shops/MPP
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Old 12-10-2002, 12:05 PM   #2020
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whats up everyone....im new to this site...ive looked and looked for a setup for a Trinity Switch Blade 2002 Spashett Edition....can someone help me out with a good basic setup...im sure there was one of the thread but i must have missed it.......ill berunning 4 cell mod on a smaller carpet track....track size somewhere near 50x70....the track isnt done yet so im not really sure of size...just need to know a setup and what type of tires to start with...thanks again
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Old 12-10-2002, 12:09 PM   #2021
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Originally posted by mo
www.speedworldraceway.com has a couple Yokomo YRX-12 cars in stock for $199.99.
That is hella cheap! Hmm.... backup car???
Team Kyosho America - Team Br00d Racing - Team R/C Plus - GQ Racing Tyres - Slapmaster Tools - FSX Racing
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Old 12-10-2002, 12:12 PM   #2022
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Hi Matt. Do a search back page 40-60 range for darnould's and foamdonuts info on the switchbalde. darnould runs one.
Tires should be the same purple front gray rears.
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Old 12-10-2002, 12:13 PM   #2023
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ill do that......thanks
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Old 12-11-2002, 09:55 AM   #2024
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Hi everyone-
Thanks RC for letting Wells know, i appreciate it. He may also find some additional info on pages 19-30. I have adjusted my standard setup a little. Now i like .072" T-bars (take your calipers to the hobby shop or the ones in your box and check the .075 Thick T-bars and you will find that they vary). I also moved all of the washers on the front end on the kingpin on top of the upper arm which lowers the roll center a little, i like the extra steering accuracy and most important it keeps the e-clip at the bottom of the kingpin from popping off- LOL!!! thanks for the tip Josh! Also make sure that you don't polish the kingpins so much that they have some slop in the steering block and you may want to consider replacing the pivot balls in the upper and lower front arms every 3mos. or so to keep them from getting too much slop and affecting your handling. I like T.M. Racing tires, Gray rears and Cyan Fronts now but TRC Grays are the same and for Jaco i would suggest Whites. The T.M. Racing and TRC Granites on good bite tracks are great for the rear having just tested some this past week but stay with the Gray or Jaco White if you are on anything less than a good traction track i suggest. Purple fronts work on high bite tracks but i like the T.M. Racing Cyan fronts on anything less than high bite (haven't had a chance to test them on a high bite track yet). You can check out T.M. Racing Tires at www.tm-rc-racingcomponents.com. Remember, i'm still learning too but getting better!
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Old 12-11-2002, 05:19 PM   #2025
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Just got my new 1/12th up and running and boy is this thing fun. The speed was a very pleasant suprise; I knew it was gonna be fast, but WOW this thing is ballistic. Along with the D5, I can see this Carpet Knife being quite the blast to run.

Any of you guys in Arizona? We need some more people to start heading out to the new Tuscon carpet track, it's super nice.

Also, what would you guys recommend as a starting setup for asphalt and carpet? Right now I'm box stock and it seems to be ok for now, but I know I'm gonna be aching for some more corner speed after I get used to the car. Thanks for any help.
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