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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time. On black carpet the car may be numb to sauce changes, either a long or short sauce can produce very similar handling.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front. Alternatively you can sauce the front tires harder and tune the car for less front end bite.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz. Possibly a longer sauce will prevent fuzzing.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Rear - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Front - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
DISCONTINUED 1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!


If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!

Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:
Pan Car Front Suspension Tuning:
DISCLAIMER : The following tuning advice was written based on the tuning experience of the author and may not hold true for all cars, drivers, or surfaces. In the end the best tuning advice is to experiment and make changes one at a time so you can track your changes and find the car balance that works best for your driving style. One real world test is worth a million ‘expert’ opinions.

Front End Type:

All popular modern pan car front suspensions are very similar, with a few exceptions such as Speedmerchant New School but most of the info in this wiki applies to them as well. For the most part, they consist of a rigid bottom arm, an upper A-arm, and a kingpin with a spring. There are different flavors of this general design, such as the CRC Dynamic Strut that uses a threaded kingpin and upper pivot ball instead of the Associated style that uses a kingpin that goes through the entire steering knuckle assembly, but their operation is the same with the rigid lower arm and the upper arm controlling the arc of movement as the suspension is compressed.

Assembly:

More so than in almost any other part of the car, the front suspension of your 1/12 car must move absolutely free. Reamers and hobby knives are important here, as any binding will cause the car to corner unpredictably. A little play in the suspension is a good thing, and racers will often find that ‘worn in’ suspension pieces function a little better than new.

Springs:

Besides tires, spring rate is the most important part of deciding how your car will handle through corners, but are somewhat complicated. As a general rule of thumb, a very hard front spring will have somewhat less steering grip than a softer spring with the same suspension setup and tires, but not as much as in other classes such as touring or offroad. On carpet, springs of different tension can be used to tune how your car will maintain or lose energy through corners with the following general rule of thumb:

Hard Spring (0.55mm or harder): Less overall steering, quick reaction to driver input, less on power steering, harder turn-in with potentially lazy mid-corner and exit.

Soft Spring (.45mm): More overall steering especially at low speed, slightly slower reaction to driver input, more on-power steering, less aggressive turn-in but can ‘hook’ and give better mid-corner and exit.

It is worth noting that front springs from different suppliers are often very different, in both height, wire thickness, and coils for a given spring height meaning that a “medium” spring from one manufacturer may be the “hard” spring for another. To make accurate changes you may want to use one spring maker and stick with their line.

Another aspect to pan car springs is that they can get “blown out” and collapse, no longer as stiff or as tall as they were. These should be replaced with fresh springs to ensure consistent handling.

Dampening:

This is generally a minor adjustment, but adding dampening tube fluid to the front kingpins of a 1/12 car can give it a little more initial steering. Often unusual compounds see use here, such as Losi Smart Diff Grease or Associated Green Slime being a popular front kingpin lube.

Caster and Reactive Caster:

Caster is the angle of the kingpin, almost always angling back to the rear of the car, with a typical range from 0-10 degrees. Increasing your caster will typically result in less turn-in but a little more control, more steering exiting the corner, and somewhat increased straight-line stability with less tendency to wander because a wheel running caster will tend to straighten itself. Less caster will usually give you more off-power steering, but often with correspondingly less on-power when accelerating out of the corner.

Running reactive caster attempts to use both of these aspects to increase overall steering: when the car loads up on the outside front tire, the caster angle decreases, increasing the front end ‘hook’ as you enter the corner and then giving you the high caster on-power steering as you exit and weight is transferred off the front end. More reactive caster means more overall steering, but can mean you may have to adjust your driving style to drive more ‘ahead of the car’, needing to predict where the front end will grip.

As grip increases, less reactive caster is the normal tuning change made to keep the front end of the car from gripping too hard and oversteering and prevent traction roll. Static caster adjustments are still used to change the cars on power / off power steering balance.

Reactive Camber and Front Roll Center:

Reactive camber or camber gain is how much camber is added the front wheels as the suspension compresses. This can be increased or decreased by changing the angle and length of the top arm. Short, angled arm = more. Long, flat arm = less. More reactive camber will typically cause the car to “roll up” on the outer front wheel, transferring more weight in a turn and give more steering up to the point at which the tire is overloaded. This is generally more front grip and weight transfer than wanted on carpet, and as a result most cars run a flatter longer front arm.

Roll Center is the point on which the car will twist laterally or ‘roll’ during cornering. This can be raised or lowered by changing the angle and length of the top arm, with a short angled arm raising is slightly and a long flat arm lowering it. From what I have calculated most modern 1/12 cars meant for carpet have a roll center somewhere around the height of the chassis plate or just below it, but due to the lower arms being rigid and flat the roll center cannot be under the bottom of the tires like it often is on a touring car.
These two are inexorably linked in pan cars. Top arm length can be changed by the top arm mount in or out using shims or a CRC Long Arm kit, but is generally a minor tuning choice. Tuning of roll center with shims is usually a minor tuning choice in a pan car with a rigid bottom arm due to how the car cannot gain extra mechanical advantage on the lower arm as you can in a touring car, while reactive camber can be a significant driver of the car’s performance. In a modern car running on carpet the kit setup is usually perfectly fine.

Front End Alignment:

Static camber is the angle of your front wheels at rest, typically somewhere from 0 to 1.5 degrees on a pan car depending on surface, tire choice, and other factors, but a good starting point is usually somewhere around 0.5 degrees. More camber will typically give more steering, but many racers use static camber to ensure that their tires wear flat even if that means not having exactly equal camber on both sides of the car. This is adjusted by threading in and out the upper turnbuckle or pivot ball.

It is also worth noting that when running on high grip the flex and deformation of your chassis, suspension parts, and front wheels can become significant and cause uneven front tire wear. Some troubleshooting of the right combination of static camber, camber gain, caster, and tire/rim choice may be necessary to ensure even front tire wear.

Toe-In:

The front toe is one of the more easily adjusted aspects of the car and can have a significant effect on the attitude of the car due to it being a quick way to moderately adjust Ackerman without making significant other changes. With nothing else being adjusted, going from zero toe to toe-in will give a car a harder turn-in and will tend to scrub speed with the front end as opposed to using drag brake. This can be necessary when racing in Super Stock or higher power classes and will allow you to drive more aggressively, and can help the car track straighter under power. Toe-out will tend to make the car coast more through corners due to reducing the steering angle of the outer front tire. If a car has too much off-power steering but is otherwise stable, adding toe-out can calm the car but may the car to wander on the straights especially if the front end setup is very soft.

Ackerman:

Ackerman is the difference in steering angle between the two front tires during a turn. It is the result of how during a turn the inside of the car experiences a tighter circle and needs correspondingly more steering angle, but is also an important tuning tool. More Ackerman means having more inside wheel steering angle relative to the outer wheel, less means that the difference in steering angle is smaller.

To add or remove Ackerman, using a servo horn that spaces the links further apart (such as a Kimbrough Small Servo Saver, the outer holes on a Tamiya or Xray servo saver) will have more Ackerman than a servo that puts the links close together (Kimbrough Medium inner holes, Tamiya or Xray inner holes.) The rule of thumb is that a servo that puts the ball studs close together but spaced away from the servo horn will have less Ackerman than one that spaces them far apart and close to the servo horn. Ackerman changes will have the same effect as changing toe with more Ackerman being effectively toeing the wheels out and less toeing them in, but will not affect the straight-line attitude of the car.

Turning Circle / Steering Angle:

In offroad or even touring car you can set up the car to use the full angle of the steering 100% of the time. You will almost certainly not be able to do this in 1/12 scale. It goes without saying that as you turn up your steering angle you will gain steering often to the point of the car being undriveable. The quickest way to set the steering correctly is to set the sub-trim in your radio such that the car tracks straight and the servo horn is straight up and down, then set the endpoints equally such that they don't quite hit the steering bump-stops, then turn down the dual-rate or total throw from there. A typical starting point is somewhere between 45 and 60% of the total steering throw, or a 4-5' turning circle.
Pan Car Rear Pod Tuning:
Modern pan cars are all link cars with a center pivot ball and solid rear axle. This suspension system is required by ROAR rules and has the advantage of being simple, lightweight, and inexpensive compared to other more exotic methods of rear suspension, but it has some complicated movements that can be unintuitive.

Motion of the Rear Pod:

Due to how the rear pod is a solid axle, the only motion the pod itself sees is the main pivot up and down, but due to the main chassis being independently sprung it will feel the lean, dive, and squat of the main chassis as the car is driven. The lateral forces of the main chassis during cornering is transmitted through the main pivot ball and side links, the roll through the side springs and side dampeners, and the squat and dive through the main shock and spring. In addition, the torque of the motor against the pinion gear both during acceleration and braking is significant enough to cause a change in attitude even in low-powered classes. The motor pinion will try to “climb” the spur gear, lifting the center pivot of the car and countering the “squat” of the main chassis weight being transferred backward by the acceleration or the opposite under brakes.

Main Shock:

The adjustment of the main shock of a pan car is one of its more important tuning parameters. Spring, dampening oil, and pod droop are all controlled by the main shock.

Main Spring:

A soft main spring generally means more rear grip and more forgiving off-power, while a stiffer spring can mean more steering especially off-power, but the main spring must also be stiff enough to prevent the chassis from dragging when running on high grip. For most cars the kit spring is a medium weight spring that is a good starting point.

Main Shock Dampening:

The weight of the main shock oil will determine how fast the car will react off-power. 30wt or roughly 300cps shock oil is a good starting point, going up in weight will increase initial off-power turn-in, while going down will generally make initial turn-in softer. Often a heavier shock oil can make the car transition from entry to mid to corner exit smoother, where a car with light fluid may have a more pronounced ‘hook’ in the mid corner.

Side Springs:

The side springs transfer the roll motion of the main chassis to the rear plate via spring tension. Softer side springs give the car more rear grip and can make the car have a smoother steering feel. Stiffer springs promote the cars rotation and give more steering. You can either pre-load side springs or let them float, due to all side springs being progressive beehive shaped springs pre-load makes them effectively harder and will give more steering, but a small amount of pre-load can also make the care more predictable and forgiving. In conditions of extremely high grip, it may be possible to run no side springs at all due to the steering afforded by the tacky running surface and helps prevent traction-roll, likewise in extremely low grip when rear stability is absolutely necessary. Generally 1/12 cars run soft side springs but stiffer ones can be very common in Pro 10, WGT, or WGT-R.

Side Dampener Tubes:

Heavier tube lube will keep a car flatter at corner entry, initiating quicker. It may also make the car square off the corner entry when the grip gets beyond med-high. Going lighter will reduce steering initiation and maybe preferred on higher grip. This parameter is really unique to the driver preference, as some drivers are very fast and consistent with heavily dampened cars while others prefer softer setups.

Droop:

Controlled by the length of the shock, adjusting the rear pod droop is extremely important on high-grip surfaces. Reducing droop prevents the car from transferring weight during cornering and will give more rear stability and prevent traction-roll or problematic lifting of the inside rear tires during cornering, low droop can also give the car slightly more on-power steering. Increasing will allow the car to transfer more weight and dive harder into corners, but by allowing the center of the car to rise you will be more prone to traction roll issues. A typical starting point is 1-2mm of droop from ride height, but 0mm is often used on high grip.

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Old 08-25-2006, 08:15 AM   #20176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikedoctor

While were on the subject I have always wondered two things.

1. The characterists of the car change as you say but what does that mean on the track? Does the car exit better as the disk slows?

2. What can one do to "work on" a disk? Ive heard guys use teflon tape but teflon doesn't have a sticky side. Or is their a different teflon tape then the white plumber tape I'm use to?
Think of it like this on #1

If your in a fast chicane and the cars flip flopping feeling left and right, increase dampening on the disc to make car smoother. In long fast corners if car dumps over at turn in killin corner speed-go heavier.

If your in a fast chicane and your car refuses to chnage directions quickly enough, try lighter dampening. Even as low as 30 wt. shock oil n the damper disc.

#2

They sell a stick on round teflon disc. I honestly dont knw who sells them anymore. I dont use them anymore, the CF is smooth enough for me.

HOpe this helps,
Ray
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Old 08-25-2006, 08:19 AM   #20177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
In the late 80's...lol! Hey, you asked! Pw will be running 1/12th at Art's this weekend.

When I ran tubes I started out with 100wt oil and kept going up until I got to Trinity Purple Stuff. The weird thing was my car was still acting as if it needed more damping.

I switched to damper disks with Stealth Diff lube and it was better. Then Jason got me using 5000wt 1/8th buggy diff silicone and thats what I use to this day. You cam buy it from 1000wt to 50,000wt. For 1/12th I have 4000, 5000, 7000 and 10,000wt. On carpet I run 7k or 10k.

There is something about the disks that make the car feel better. Its not just the damping. I dont know if its the disc tension springs action on the top pod plate or the increased fore-aft damping but they just work.

In effect to this it maybe is the design of the tube that is causing lack of effective damping. For example the corrally sp12m the tube on that car are awful, you need to change the damping fluid each run, and you can feel it losing damping throughout the run. Before the sp12m with tube the corallys use a damper boot which was far more effective at damping the rear pod. The best solution to the tubes are the CRC dampers or the old delta pod style damper.
Currently the T-force i am using the damping is great with the thick crc damping fluid and works as well as my old 12ls before i converted it to a wood racing car. That when every change form disks to tubes but i never got on with the woods it never handled as well as the 12ls .
PS does anyone want a wood racing car? PM me
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Old 08-25-2006, 08:21 AM   #20178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Think of it like this on #1

...They sell a stick on round teflon disc. I honestly dont knw who sells them anymore. I dont use them anymore, the CF is smooth enough for me.

HOpe this helps,
Ray
I thinks its Buds somthing or the other...

E
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:24 PM   #20179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i agree with both ed and adrian.being that there was talk of t plate breakdown i would also like to note that springs also collapse and will need to be replaced.link cars work very well but they are not invinsible either.im not saying anything bad about them.all i say is that if you peg something hard or just use the car normally for an long time,coil springs wear also.i have been running the same .063 t plate in my car for 4 months.i have not really hit anything.the rear pod does not flex very far so it doesnt get fatigued easily.what hurts t plates is impact. as far as discs vs. tubes,try em both and see what works better for you.i personally run discs and have for some time now.i have tried both and was faster with the discs.
Jason, I totally agree. There is no bullet proof 12th scale solution. Its mostly down to preference. My preference is obvious lol. When I ran for hyperform though, that was a great car too and about as dissimilar from the speedmerchant car as you can get. Like I said its mostly about preference. Its nice now that there are so many choices in 12th: SpeedMerchant, CRC, BMI, Hyperform, Corally, AE... The list goes on.

A note about spings for link car guys:

The new speedmerchant springs are custom made for the application. Bruce had them made to his specs and they are light years ahead of the old wolfe springs. Much smoother, more consistent and I haven't seen one collapse yet!

Also, for those with tubes, try the SpeedMerchant tubes. They are a unique custom peice. Alot of people pass them over because they are plastic. The reality is, that despite the lesser bling they are machined to a very close tolerance, won't bend and actually provide the best damping characteristics of the tubes I've tried. Pretty much the whole team uses these tubes with 10k silicone oil.
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:33 PM   #20180
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Marcos J. thanks for the setup tips I will give it a try this weekend hopefully. How would the double pinks differ from purples in the front, would they give me more or less steering? I did change to a .063 t-bar at the last race, but I belive I lost some front steering when I changed, would I want to run two or three screws in the .063 t-bar? Thanks bill
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:39 PM   #20181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
In the late 80's...lol! Hey, you asked! Pw will be running 1/12th at Art's this weekend.

When I ran tubes I started out with 100wt oil and kept going up until I got to Trinity Purple Stuff. The weird thing was my car was still acting as if it needed more damping.

I switched to damper disks with Stealth Diff lube and it was better. Then Jason got me using 5000wt 1/8th buggy diff silicone and thats what I use to this day. You cam buy it from 1000wt to 50,000wt. For 1/12th I have 4000, 5000, 7000 and 10,000wt. On carpet I run 7k or 10k.

There is something about the disks that make the car feel better. Its not just the damping. I dont know if its the disc tension springs action on the top pod plate or the increased fore-aft damping but they just work.
Nice. So where can i find the address or directions to Art's track. What day are they racing?
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:58 PM   #20182
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Originally Posted by IslandBwoy
Nice. So where can i find the address or directions to Art's track. What day are they racing?
they are racing saturday and they are located in the corner of Nebraska and Bearss av. off 275

The address is
14975 N. Nebraska Ave.
Tampa, Fl.
33613
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Old 08-25-2006, 01:58 PM   #20183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
they are racing saturday and they are located in the corner of Nebraska and Bearss av. off 275

The address is
14975 N. Nebraska Ave.
Tampa, Fl.
33613

Thanks. I just found the new thread under florida racing as well. Who would have thunk't.
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Old 08-25-2006, 03:30 PM   #20184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-B
Marcos J. thanks for the setup tips I will give it a try this weekend hopefully. How would the double pinks differ from purples in the front, would they give me more or less steering? I did change to a .063 t-bar at the last race, but I belive I lost some front steering when I changed, would I want to run two or three screws in the .063 t-bar? Thanks bill

i run the double pink wraps front and rear.if you run standard tires try the double pink fronts and pink rear.the double pinks will give more traction in the front than purples.i went away from purple fronts because they take a few minutes of running for the front to feel good.when they do get good they are fast.the double pinks are good from the get go and last till the end of the race.you can lose a race in good competition in the 1st minute or so.

i run 2 screws in the t plate.the .063 T plate will give you more rear traction and is better if there are a bumps.it also gives the car a more smoothe feel.if your car starts to double steer at high speed you can just put some AE diff lube on the kingpins to eliminate that.
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Old 08-25-2006, 03:41 PM   #20185
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Originally Posted by eforer
Jason, I totally agree. There is no bullet proof 12th scale solution. Its mostly down to preference. My preference is obvious lol. When I ran for hyperform though, that was a great car too and about as dissimilar from the speedmerchant car as you can get. Like I said its mostly about preference. Its nice now that there are so many choices in 12th: SpeedMerchant, CRC, BMI, Hyperform, Corally, AE... The list goes on.

A note about spings for link car guys:

The new speedmerchant springs are custom made for the application. Bruce had them made to his specs and they are light years ahead of the old wolfe springs. Much smoother, more consistent and I haven't seen one collapse yet!

Also, for those with tubes, try the SpeedMerchant tubes. They are a unique custom peice. Alot of people pass them over because they are plastic. The reality is, that despite the lesser bling they are machined to a very close tolerance, won't bend and actually provide the best damping characteristics of the tubes I've tried. Pretty much the whole team uses these tubes with 10k silicone oil.
i know your a link guy bro.i think both styles of cars work awesome.honestly,when set up right they feel very similar.i have seen bruce's damper tubes.they are very nice.when i tried the tubes i used the CRC tubes.they were also very nice.the tubes do work well.i personally like the feel of the washers but hell,Team Driver Jason Schreffler took the BMI DB12 to a strong 3rd place A main finish at this past years snowbirds with tubes.they definately work.he was the fastest car on the track and would have won if he had better luck with the start.he got peeled and put to last place.he came from last to be fighting for 2nd with Jeff Cuffs and almost took it over 1/2 a dozen times.so,i am sure they work well. i like to have the option to run either and this is my reason for giving the option of both in my kit. and this is why i always have a set in my pit box.i would like to try the SM tubes.they do look real nice.
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Old 08-25-2006, 06:23 PM   #20186
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Having said that, do you think that a certain brand tube works better than others? If so, what would be the reasoning for that? If neither of 'em leak, then arent all tubes made equal?

Thanks for all the input.

BTW: I think i'm going to skip tomorrows race and go to Daytona on Sunday :-(. I just cant see spending a grip on gas both days.
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Old 08-25-2006, 06:47 PM   #20187
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the tubes work similar to a shock as it is a telescoping damper that relies on the damper syrup for resistance when the 2 halves telescope.this has a tendency,depending on the clearence to allow the syrup to get pushed to the bottom of the female part of the tube causing the dampening to get lighter.washers work similar in the fact that it uses syrup for resistance or dampening BUT when set up correctly,will work like when you have a slight bit of water between 2 pieces of glass.once the air is displaced along with excess syrup,the dampening is consistant for a long period of time and is hard to seperate from its mating surface(upper pod plate).it does not rely as much on the amount of syrup,it more or less relies on the absence of air along with the dampening syrup.they both work very well.a good set of tubes will work well.i just like the feel of the washers.
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:14 PM   #20188
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I just got a new-to-me used RC12L3 and I'm curious what the body is. I see no identification under/in back. Help me out please.
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:19 PM   #20189
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Thats a 91' Geo Metro body ya go there.
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:22 PM   #20190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerDriver
I just got a new-to-me used RC12L3 and I'm curious what the body is. I see no identification under/in back. Help me out please.
Looks like the Nissan gtp
http://rctech.net/forum/showpost.php...ostcount=20081
I posted mine a few pages back.
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