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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-24-2006, 03:15 PM   #20146
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I use an 1/8 reamer. If that doesn't open it up enough then I roll a piece of 6oo grit sand paper and sand until the pin slides smoothly.

before you do any of that make sure to install the axles. some times they put pressure on the hole and can compress it a little bit.

E
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Old 08-24-2006, 03:17 PM   #20147
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that too.i forgot about that.those damn axles are real tight also.
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:31 PM   #20148
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If you're talking about the std 12M front end (i think so), i had some king pins that were a touch oversize right at the top. Fine down the bottom near teh wishbone, just tight at the top. I just "polished" them right at the top with some 600grit sand paper.
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:33 PM   #20149
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Just a heads up if anyone is looking for a Futaba S9602 servo for there 12th.



FUTABA S9602 12th scale servo
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:34 PM   #20150
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Thanks for the replys. Yes it is the standard 12m front end I quess. The kingpin inserts into the bearings. I dont think I can ream them out butI will polish the kingpin themselves.

Thanks
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:42 PM   #20151
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IMO polishing the kingpins is the truest method. Just do it with polishing compound. I haven't tried sanding but my kingpins come out perfect...
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Old 08-24-2006, 04:43 PM   #20152
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12m.. doh! that's not an Associated front end is it? My reply is for the Assoc. style front.

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Old 08-24-2006, 04:48 PM   #20153
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Default monster stock motor

So... what do you guys like to do stock motors for 1/12.
Motor:
green springs, what brushes, cavity face, shave the pos or neg trailing edge, advance the endbell as much as possible.

ESC Settings: ??

Rollout: 1.78 / 45.2mm

E
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Old 08-24-2006, 07:32 PM   #20154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
I use an 1/8 reamer. If that doesn't open it up enough then I roll a piece of 6oo grit sand paper and sand until the pin slides smoothly.

before you do any of that make sure to install the axles. some times they put pressure on the hole and can compress it a little bit.

E

You could also put the pin in your dremel and use the 600 grit paper that way. Faster and eaier. Just dont go buck wild on it. :-)
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Old 08-24-2006, 07:33 PM   #20155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandBwoy
You could also put the pin in your dremel and use the 600 grit paper that way. Faster and eaier. Just dont go buck wild on it. :-)

Its also a good idea to follow up with a polishing cloth if you have one.
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Old 08-24-2006, 07:57 PM   #20156
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Question. I've been looking at pages on end for the answer to this with no success. Question is, tubes vs. disk damper. Advantages, disadvantage? I converedted my yrx12 to tubes but dont run the car enough to really feel the difference. Any input would be appreciated.

~MI JEDI
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Old 08-24-2006, 08:23 PM   #20157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandBwoy
Question. I've been looking at pages on end for the answer to this with no success. Question is, tubes vs. disk damper. Advantages, disadvantage? I converedted my yrx12 to tubes but dont run the car enough to really feel the difference. Any input would be appreciated.

~MI JEDI
Actually, it's not so much the disk on those cars as it is the T-plate underneath it. While both can work VERy well on high grip surfaces, it's on rough & low grip tracks that the T-Bar cars run into trouble. Because of the free movement in all directions that the damper tube cars offer, they can be adapted well to pretty much ANY surface(within reason, of course), but T-Bar cars simply can't flex enough to keep up. And even worse, T-Bar cars can also be MUCH more prone to being tweaked than damper-tube cars, because that fiberglass T-Bar takes a lot of abuse, & once it gets tweaked, there's no fixing it, you just have to buy & install a fresh one(& from my expeience with them, that gets old pretty quickly). Also, on another note more aimed at the disk damper, it seemed to me that while you could get them to work very well, it was always quite messy(always leaking whatever damping substance you use, whether it be grease or fluid, had to redo mine after EVERY run), while the tubes on my CRC Carpet Knife seem to hold the damping fluid quite well(better than I expected, at least), less troublesome & easier to keep clean. But on a good track surface, both are equally effective, IMO.....
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Old 08-24-2006, 08:39 PM   #20158
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there are tbar cars with tube. bmi 12, tforce, hyperform razor, the list is long

the disk is not messy if you use just enough lube. with too much lube you get the messy car problem.

the main difference with the disk vs tube is that the tube provides forward/aft dampening as well. where as the tube is more just side to side dampening. i prefered the tube because I can control side to side apart from forward/aft. i try and control the forward/aft with center spring/shock adjustment. the disk is a less maintenance. the tubes can be inconsisent from side to side if you do not build them right.
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Old 08-24-2006, 10:16 PM   #20159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandBwoy
Question. I've been looking at pages on end for the answer to this with no success. Question is, tubes vs. disk damper. Advantages, disadvantage? I converedted my yrx12 to tubes but dont run the car enough to really feel the difference. Any input would be appreciated.

~MI JEDI
Here we go again...

The BMI car can run both so...Before the 2005 ROAR Nats at Speedline I ran every weekend for 2 months. I tired everything you can imagine on a 1/12th car. Like the guys below I was a big fan of the damper tubes. Jason asked me to test Tubes vs. Disks and I was ALWAYS faster with the Damper disks. Jason always runs disks.

At the Nats BMI drivers Paul Wynn and Fernando Gordinho changed from tubes to disks and went faster. Paul got 3rd behind Blackstock (2nd) and Lufaso (1st and TQ) running L4's. FYI, the L4 uses damper disks.

If someone tells me tubes are better I always ask, Did you test them back to back personally and did the lap time show they were better?

Just because something "should" be better dosen't mean it "is" better.
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Old 08-24-2006, 11:04 PM   #20160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobS
I ran pro cuts all last year without any isses. Its nice to be able to buy a new set of tires and just throw them on the car without having to true them down yourself to the size you want, I love it!
Agreed. No issues here either. Bought a supply for IIC Las Vegas because I have not wanted to go back to the others.
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