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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-22-2006, 04:46 AM   #20071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowyelan
What is the best stock motor for 12th?
I use to like the monster stock. This past weekend I ran the x-motor and the co27. We found the right brush spring combo for both motors to make them scream.
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Old 08-22-2006, 05:02 AM   #20072
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SRW141 ygpm
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Old 08-22-2006, 08:44 AM   #20073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRW141
I use to like the monster stock. This past weekend I ran the x-motor and the co27. We found the right brush spring combo for both motors to make them scream.
What motor did you like the best? X-stock or the CO27? I would think the X-stock would be better
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Old 08-22-2006, 09:10 AM   #20074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSchorr
What motor did you like the best? X-stock or the CO27? I would think the X-stock would be better
It is funny the weekend before, I liked the Xmotor better and and this weekend I liked the CO27. I felt I was lacking some infield punch so I switched to the CO27. Took a little off the trailing edge of the brush and geared it up and it was the ticket. The Xmotor is still a really good 12th scale motor. I probably will stick more with the X. I'm getting ready to run some 19T now.
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Old 08-22-2006, 10:02 AM   #20075
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Default Converting 1/12 to 1/18 on road

There is a discussion on the mini micro forum about setting up 1/18th off road vehicles to race on-road courses (mainly carpet 1/10 tracks).

They claim that by adjusting the suspensions and using 1/10 scale foam tires that the 1/18th buggys and trucks will out corner regular 1/18th scale TC like the X-ray M18. I checked the dimensions and these 1/18th off road vehicles have the same length and wheelbase as 1/18 on road but they are as wide and have the same track as a 1/10 TC.

If indeed these mini trucks corner better because of they are twice as wide as the mini TC then I wonder what would happen if you took a standard 12 scale car(or a 1/10 pan car) and dramtically reduced its wheelbase down to something like 6 inchs.

Would you then have a even better cornering car?
Is the only reason RC cars try to maintian the basic dimensions of a car which is twice as long as it is wide because thats what the full size cars do?

Last edited by imjonah; 08-22-2006 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 08-22-2006, 10:15 AM   #20076
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I was once told that a square doesn't know which way is forward, meaning that if the track width and the wheelbase are the same. Many people also like the idea that we are scale auto racing. Its the same reason why people are resisting our bodies taking on the same flattened wedge shape the slotcar bodies have taken on. ROAR rules, which everyone pretty much follows, dictate maximum/minimum dimensions for these features.
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Old 08-22-2006, 10:36 AM   #20077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay70
Its the same reason why people are resisting our bodies taking on the same flattened wedge shape the slotcar bodies have taken on.
Too late...take a look at the bodies we use in 1/12 and show me how they even come CLOSE to resembling anything in 1/1. While I was gone we've managed to bastardize "scale" here too. We've followed the EXACT same slippery slope slot cars plunged off of into the land of "thingies".

When I raced 1/12 and 1/10 pan in the late 80's and early 90's the cars looked like real cars (Nissan GTP, Jag XJ10/12, Porsche 962, etc. Now they look like charicatures. When I saw a Speed 12 body on display when I was checking out getting back into the hobby I had to ask about it--no way I figured that was a ROAR-legal body. Surprise.

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Old 08-22-2006, 11:22 AM   #20078
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As far as Black, Yellow, etc. compounds....They are what I consider goofy tires . Goofy tires work once in a while under goofy conditions. Running goofy tires at club races is usually a great way to slow yourself down. The reason you can't buy goofy tires is that they are only made for and brought to huge races like Cleveland, the Snowbrids, etc....just in case goofy conditions pop up.

If you run 1/12th on carpet you run should Purple fronts and Gray Rears or Double Pink Jaco Wraps/TRC Wraps/CRC Pro Cuts front and rear. These are normal tires and work best 99.99% of the time.
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:16 PM   #20079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony rivas
sure if there racing on sunday

So where is going to be the place to race this weekend? Superior? Arts track???

If your down with 1/12 now, i'm going to have to dust of my yrx12
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:17 PM   #20080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandBwoy
So where is going to be the place to race this weekend? Superior? Arts track???

If your down with 1/12 now, i'm going to have to dust of my yrx12
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:34 PM   #20081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Too late...take a look at the bodies we use in 1/12 and show me how they even come CLOSE to resembling anything in 1/1. While I was gone we've managed to bastardize "scale" here too. We've followed the EXACT same slippery slope slot cars plunged off of into the land of "thingies".

When I raced 1/12 and 1/10 pan in the late 80's and early 90's the cars looked like real cars (Nissan GTP, Jag XJ10/12, Porsche 962, etc. Now they look like charicatures. When I saw a Speed 12 body on display when I was checking out getting back into the hobby I had to ask about it--no way I figured that was a ROAR-legal body. Surprise.

Scottrik
Something like this???
Raced with this last month people were like "what shell is that?"
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1/12 forum-gtp-shell.jpg  
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:44 PM   #20082
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt
Something like this???
Raced with this last month people were like "what shell is that?"
I like that "Strohs Beer" sticker in the front!! are you racing 1/12th sunday?
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:51 PM   #20083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
As far as Black, Yellow, etc. compounds....They are what I consider goofy tires . Goofy tires work once in a while under goofy conditions. Running goofy tires at club races is usually a great way to slow yourself down. The reason you can't buy goofy tires is that they are only made for and brought to huge races like Cleveland, the Snowbrids, etc....just in case goofy conditions pop up.

If you run 1/12th on carpet you run should Purple fronts and Gray Rears or Double Pink Jaco Wraps/TRC Wraps/CRC Pro Cuts front and rear. These are normal tires and work best 99.99% of the time.
Hey Adrian,

What do you think about Jaco Greens all the way around for a very small tight track. I currently run the CRC pro cuts and I'm good going into the corner but the back end gets crazy loose coming out. When I first got into 1/12 the L3 I was driving came with Greens all the way around and the car seemed good but that was some time a ago and I may have not known good handling from poor. Amazing how age kills the memory cells.
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:52 PM   #20084
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Ahh...the Protoform P35. That was THE body until the Parma Speed 8 came out.
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:59 PM   #20085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
I like that "Strohs Beer" sticker in the front!! are you racing 1/12th sunday?
Yeah too bad it is as rare as that body. I think I need to retire it before it's all hammered up. (unless I get lucky and find another nissan gtp)

Where are you planning? Strickland? I'm itching to go race again....
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