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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-20-2006, 07:38 PM   #20041
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na,i will talk to him this week and find out.all i know is the track looks smoothe as hell.
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Old 08-20-2006, 07:39 PM   #20042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03
Hey Marcos or Jason do you know the race Schedule for Art's track?
check the Florida thread
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Old 08-20-2006, 07:42 PM   #20043
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Originally Posted by protc3
cool deal tony.i will help you get the car moving good bro.are you coming out next weekend to arts new track in tampa?
sure if there racing on sunday
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Old 08-20-2006, 07:44 PM   #20044
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looks like they are racing both days.im gonna be running only 1/12th.im waiting for my surikarn cyclone to come in.i sold my other cyclone to marcos
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Old 08-20-2006, 07:45 PM   #20045
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looks like they are racing both days.im gonna be running only 1/12th.im waiting for my surikarn cyclone to come in.i sold my other cyclone to marcos
Im lucky
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Old 08-20-2006, 07:46 PM   #20046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony rivas
sure if there racing on sunday
they are starting at 2:00pm on sunday!
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Old 08-20-2006, 07:52 PM   #20047
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Originally Posted by Fervidsea
For the steering link on my SP12M can I get rid of the rods and go with turnbuckles? What would my advantages or disadvantages be? Thanks.
Anyone know?
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Old 08-20-2006, 07:57 PM   #20048
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Im lucky

NO YOU SUCK........
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Old 08-20-2006, 07:58 PM   #20049
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NO YOU SUCK........
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Old 08-20-2006, 08:00 PM   #20050
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Anyone know?
i personally see no advantage to the stock linkage.using turnbuckles will have less slop and have no ackerman variance between left and right wheels.
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Old 08-21-2006, 12:51 AM   #20051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony rivas
Ok iam hook i got one (RC12L4)got some help from Marcos (thanks) jason i need to pit with you next time!
Awesome that you got a 12thy! Shoot me a pm I still need to head your way for the detail job when your ready.
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Old 08-21-2006, 01:20 AM   #20052
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Originally Posted by Fervidsea
Anyone know?

read the warning from corally in the section on steering in your handbook and heed the warning - save you changing it back again.
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Old 08-21-2006, 04:44 AM   #20053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanknmorgan
Hello. I just purchased a used RC12l4 and am new to the forums here. I have a few questions. First is the ESC wiring. The car came with a GM sx9 purple ESC. The wiring was kind of wierd on it and had one of the battery and motor wires soldered together. Meaning that there were only 3 wires soldered to the ESC instead of 4. It also had a black capicitor soldered inline on the leads. All that seemed wierd, so I soldered new deans wires to everything, but I was wondering what the capacitor and funny wiring was for?

I hope that makes sense. Also, does anyone have any good recommendations for an asphalt setup. There is a local track at hobbytown that I would like to get into racing at.

Lastly, I was wondering where I should order bearings from for the rc12l4. One of my front wheels has alot of wobble and a couple of my diff bearings are shot.
Thanks.
I didn't see a full reply to this:
The SX9 only has 3 solder tabs on it anyway. The motor and speedo both need a connection to the batteries, it is better to have a solid piece between motor and cells and t the speedo wire onto it. The speedo does NOT need a large +ve supply as it only needs enough current to control itself and run the BEC circuit. The speedo switches the -ve on and off very fast to control the motor speed/power.
The capacitor is to smooth the voltage entering the speedo and gives a little more punch, when you go hard on the gas the electrical current is large and the batteries voltages 'sags' because of their internal resistance and the wires resistance, the capacitor stores a little energy to reduce this as it can give that energy out fast giving the cells an easier time.
If you use brakes a lot you may need a schottky diode too. This protects the speedo. The SX9 is pretty good, nice and small and has won some 12th world championships!
For best efficiency solder direct to the motor and cells, if not use 4mm 'corrally' type connectors as they have less resistance than deans and you can also end up with less wiring.
-SS
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Old 08-21-2006, 07:58 AM   #20054
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hey all,

been away from the hobby for awhile and have questions?


My local hobby shop stocks almost nothing and I am looking at different cars for this fall season.

Is the corally sp12m a decent middle road car? Is it true that only corally tires can be used on this car? For $100 seems to be a bargin?

Any lipo batts in 1/12th yet? Thanks for the info....

Dan
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Old 08-21-2006, 08:08 AM   #20055
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the corrally is a nice car, but for the price, the 12l4 is a really good car. and yes you need corraly wheels.

we have tried lipo in a 1/12 but was hard to balance. you are running 7.4 volt and then with no weight. it is like a mod with no weight transfer. but was a lot of fun. with lipol, you can only run 3.7 or 7.4v
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