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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-17-2006, 08:48 PM   #19966
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Originally Posted by corallyman
Adrian,

This was outside asphalt correct? Who had motor between you and Bruce. I need to get a new 19t soon. Thanks.

Steve

i have not seen anything quicker than a KD 19.all are fast but when you get a hot KD,nothing is close.
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Old 08-17-2006, 09:01 PM   #19967
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Originally Posted by protc3
i have not seen anything quicker than a KD 19.all are fast but when you get a hot KD,nothing is close.
I used to think so but at minnreg no one had more motor than me in 1/12 or 19T. Even Tosso asked me what I was running for motor. It it were a drag race I would have done a lot better than i did...lol! I will setup an extra Orion 19T I have and let you try it.
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Old 08-17-2006, 09:37 PM   #19968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Start at 2.05" and go up from there

I was running 2.15" with an Orion Element (laydown Brush) at Minnreg. Mike Bruce was at 2.05" with a Money 19.
This is some imfo I was looking for as well. What is considered the 'hot' spring & brush combo.... well for asphalt anyhow. I think I read somewhere that you recommended the light springs but I could be wrong.
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Old 08-17-2006, 09:40 PM   #19969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
This is some imfo I was looking for as well. What is considered the 'hot' spring & brush combo.... well for asphalt anyhow. I think I read somewhere that you recommended the light springs but I could be wrong.
light springs
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Old 08-17-2006, 09:56 PM   #19970
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Thanx MJ. In doing some 'test-runs' (the street outside of the house) I am finding the CP to be pretty damn fast. I can see it's potential.
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Old 08-17-2006, 10:03 PM   #19971
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt
Thanx MJ. In doing some 'test-runs' (the street outside of the house) I am finding the CP to be pretty damn fast. I can see it's potential.

I just got one too
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Old 08-17-2006, 10:13 PM   #19972
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It's good. I set one up with a combo recommended for TC in my Mi2 and it rippped! I'm gonna' give them a try for awhile. OH Yeah please try to get that 12l4 chassis from Jason when you see him next, I want to get that car going again .
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Old 08-17-2006, 10:20 PM   #19973
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt
It's good. I set one up with a combo recommended for TC in my Mi2 and it rippped! I'm gonna' give them a try for awhile. OH Yeah please try to get that 12l4 chassis from Jason when you see him next, I want to get that car going again .
no problem!
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Old 08-17-2006, 10:35 PM   #19974
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Originally Posted by hanknmorgan
Hello. I just purchased a used RC12l4 and am new to the forums here. I have a few questions. First is the ESC wiring. The car came with a GM sx9 purple ESC. The wiring was kind of wierd on it and had one of the battery and motor wires soldered together. Meaning that there were only 3 wires soldered to the ESC instead of 4. It also had a black capicitor soldered inline on the leads. All that seemed wierd, so I soldered new deans wires to everything, but I was wondering what the capacitor and funny wiring was for?

I hope that makes sense. Also, does anyone have any good recommendations for an asphalt setup. There is a local track at hobbytown that I would like to get into racing at.

Lastly, I was wondering where I should order bearings from for the rc12l4. One of my front wheels has alot of wobble and a couple of my diff bearings are shot.
Thanks.
How are the 3 solder points on the GM ESC labeled?

For a QC2 (with 3 solder points) the "MOT+" goes to the plus side of the battery AND the plus side of the motor. You can "T" off of the motor wire to make only three connections at the ESC and minimize the amount of wire needed.
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Old 08-18-2006, 12:29 AM   #19975
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
I used to think so but at minnreg no one had more motor than me in 1/12 or 19T. Even Tosso asked me what I was running for motor. It it were a drag race I would have done a lot better than i did...lol! I will setup an extra Orion 19T I have and let you try it.
shooosh Adrain dont let him know about the orion motors!
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Old 08-18-2006, 02:45 AM   #19976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanknmorgan
Hello. I just purchased a used RC12l4 and am new to the forums here. I have a few questions. First is the ESC wiring. The car came with a GM sx9 purple ESC. The wiring was kind of wierd on it and had one of the battery and motor wires soldered together. Meaning that there were only 3 wires soldered to the ESC instead of 4. It also had a black capicitor soldered inline on the leads. All that seemed wierd, so I soldered new deans wires to everything, but I was wondering what the capacitor and funny wiring was for?

I hope that makes sense. Also, does anyone have any good recommendations for an asphalt setup. There is a local track at hobbytown that I would like to get into racing at.

Lastly, I was wondering where I should order bearings from for the rc12l4. One of my front wheels has alot of wobble and a couple of my diff bearings are shot.
Thanks.
General setup for L4 on asphalt:
Pink rear tires, purple fronts.
Standard (0.020") front springs.
10degree caster blocks on the front end, one white shimm on both sides.
Toe at neutral (no toe-in or toe-out)
Camber set to have the front tires wear flat.
Use the tin (0.063") Tbar mounted with only the two outer screws on the rear pod of the car.
Use 20wt oil in the centershock and the stock green spring.
Ride height: front 4mm, rear 4.5mm. Make sure that when ready to run (with batteries and ellectronics) the rear pod is "on the same plane" as the front of the chassis. In other words: not sagging or jacked up. Adjust center shock spring tension till you get this right.

Very important: swap left and right tires every run, so they remain the same size.

For more specific setup advise, ask what the fast guys at your track run!
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Old 08-18-2006, 04:15 AM   #19977
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Originally Posted by AdrianM
I used to think so but at minnreg no one had more motor than me in 1/12 or 19T. Even Tosso asked me what I was running for motor. It it were a drag race I would have done a lot better than i did...lol! I will setup an extra Orion 19T I have and let you try it.
i will try it.all i remember was ripping everyone and anyone down the straight.i had soooo many problems with hacks that weekend breaking my car to pieces that i didnt get to do well.i ran the KD in both my touring and 1/12th and do not recall ever getting motored by anyone.
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Old 08-18-2006, 04:19 AM   #19978
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Originally Posted by speedxl
shooosh Adrain dont let him know about the orion motors!
i will try but i really dont think it will compare.there are a few reasons why i believe this.the short stack and less wire for one.the kd has a more narrow webbing meaning less wire.it has short stacks which is more rpm.that alone makes it hard for other 19's to beat.the magnets suck but if you keep em zapped its unbeatable.
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Old 08-18-2006, 04:21 AM   #19979
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i think i also remember PW telling me that i had the fastest 19 turn in my touring car that he had ever seen in his life.no kidding,he actually said that.
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Old 08-18-2006, 07:55 AM   #19980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill
How are the 3 solder points on the GM ESC labeled?

For a QC2 (with 3 solder points) the "MOT+" goes to the plus side of the battery AND the plus side of the motor. You can "T" off of the motor wire to make only three connections at the ESC and minimize the amount of wire needed.
That's exactly how it was setup. Is there a performance gain for only using 3 wires or it just to save weight and keep everything less cluttered? What about the black capacitor deal? I see that alot of pictures I find of 1/12 cars seem to have one? What do they do.

Thanks.
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