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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-16-2006, 05:11 PM   #19951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
You'll more than likely be running 4200shv's as well unless yout tracks got a cap on Mah's.
We'll know about the batteries after our meeting early next month. Our season runs Oct-Mar so when ROAR approves batteries effective Jan. 1 or some such it creates havoc for us. Last year we finally got someone at ROAR to confirm for us that the 3800's would be approved for sure so we went ahead and allowed them ahead of time so folks didn't have to buy new batteries mid-season.

It wouldn't be a problem if it was just our club, we'd cap batteries at whatever was approved by Oct. 1 for the season and allow subsequently approved batteries the following season. The fly in THAT ointment is that we host a large event in March that draws people from several states and it wouldn't work to tell them to bring 3800's when they're maybe running the 4200's.

Sure be nice if ROAR would decide that 3800 is PLENTY for what we're doing and put a stop to the needless escalation. It sure doesn't make racing any better/closer, it only costs the racers more money by siphoning it off to the mfrs and shops.

Scottrik
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Old 08-16-2006, 06:24 PM   #19952
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Default Battery Season

What Scottrick describes is what seems to happen every year, needing two sets of batteries for club and ROAR races. Maybe the problem is that most clubs seasons don't start in January. Our seasons here are divided roughly into Summer (asphalt) and Winter (carpet), basically October to March. Maybe if ROAR had a battery approval date that corresponded more with the seasons than the calender there wouldn't be such big gaps between new battery releases and approval times.

What are the racing seasons like in other places?
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Old 08-16-2006, 06:36 PM   #19953
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odpurple - Thats a really good idea! I will mention to the guys at ROAR.
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Old 08-16-2006, 06:44 PM   #19954
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In fairness, ROAR's official approval date for the IB3800s and the GP3700s was Oct 1 though iir we were still getting uncommittal (at best) responses to our queries even after that date.

Unfortunately even Oct 1 pushes us right to the edge when our season begins in Oct... If it could be "clocked ahead" even a month (September 1) it would be a BIG help to us and, it sounds like, others in similar situations.

Scottrik

Last edited by Scottrik; 08-16-2006 at 07:15 PM.
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Old 08-16-2006, 07:44 PM   #19955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
Adrian what's a good rollout for a Checkpoint 19t?
Start at 2.05" and go up from there

I was running 2.15" with an Orion Element (laydown Brush) at Minnreg. Mike Bruce was at 2.05" with a Money 19.
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Old 08-16-2006, 07:59 PM   #19956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
In fairness, ROAR's official approval date for the IB3800s and the GP3700s was Oct 1 though iir we were still getting uncommittal (at best) responses to our queries even after that date.

Unfortunately even Oct 1 pushes us right to the edge when our season begins in Oct... If it could be "clocked ahead" even a month (September 1) it would be a BIG help to us and, it sounds like, others in similar situations.

Scottrik
We are in agreement, but I'm not sure why you would need the approval date to precede the season. If you know when the change will take place you can plan ahead.
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Old 08-16-2006, 08:23 PM   #19957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
EA tuned KD19t gets my vote. You'll more than likely be running 4200shv's as well unless yout tracks got a cap on Mah's.
Ditto.
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Old 08-16-2006, 09:49 PM   #19958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burgboyz
What's up Chop Sticks?
Has the layout changed at Trackside?
Are you going to be able to run the Hurricane Series?
Take care, Jon
Hey John, how are you?
Things have been going pretty good here and yes the layout is the same. I am not sure if I will race the Hurricane race, but I will be running the IIC warmup, which is the next day. Ill try to get off of work, which probobly wont be a problem, but you never know.

Talk to you later,
Zared
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Old 08-16-2006, 10:03 PM   #19959
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
I was running 2.15" with an Orion Element (laydown Brush) at Minnreg. Mike Bruce was at 2.05" with a Money 19.
Is that with 3800 or 4200 cells?

Thanks,

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Old 08-16-2006, 10:05 PM   #19960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
We'll know about the batteries after our meeting early next month. Our season runs Oct-Mar so when ROAR approves batteries effective Jan. 1 or some such it creates havoc for us. Last year we finally got someone at ROAR to confirm for us that the 3800's would be approved for sure so we went ahead and allowed them ahead of time so folks didn't have to buy new batteries mid-season.

It wouldn't be a problem if it was just our club, we'd cap batteries at whatever was approved by Oct. 1 for the season and allow subsequently approved batteries the following season. The fly in THAT ointment is that we host a large event in March that draws people from several states and it wouldn't work to tell them to bring 3800's when they're maybe running the 4200's.

Sure be nice if ROAR would decide that 3800 is PLENTY for what we're doing and put a stop to the needless escalation. It sure doesn't make racing any better/closer, it only costs the racers more money by siphoning it off to the mfrs and shops.

Scottrik

Its almost impossible for ROAR to put a cap on batteries. This was just proven by IB as they discontinued the IB3800 cell. As of August 1st they are NOT making them any longer. So what would Roar do if they had a cap of 3800's?

Battery technology is ALWAYS going to be a problem in electric racing. The main reason is the batteries we use are not made just for RC....they power a lot of other things. Those other things/companies are always going to want bigger and better.

EA
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Old 08-16-2006, 10:06 PM   #19961
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
What Scottrick describes is what seems to happen every year, needing two sets of batteries for club and ROAR races. Maybe the problem is that most clubs seasons don't start in January. Our seasons here are divided roughly into Summer (asphalt) and Winter (carpet), basically October to March. Maybe if ROAR had a battery approval date that corresponded more with the seasons than the calender there wouldn't be such big gaps between new battery releases and approval times.

What are the racing seasons like in other places?
As Adrian said its something that Roar has been looking at for the past few months. I am not sure what changes will be made but we are working on it to make it better for the RACERS of Roar!!

EA
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Old 08-17-2006, 01:32 AM   #19962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Start at 2.05" and go up from there

I was running 2.15" with an Orion Element (laydown Brush) at Minnreg. Mike Bruce was at 2.05" with a Money 19.
Adrian,

This was outside asphalt correct? Who had motor between you and Bruce. I need to get a new 19t soon. Thanks.

Steve
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Old 08-17-2006, 06:38 AM   #19963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D
burbs - IRS has lightened diff rings too. They are designed for D-ring diffs and have the center of gravity located at the axis of rotation to reduce vibration. $6 for a 4 pack is way cheaper then the rocket rings.



link: http://www.teamirsrc.com/topgun.html
Mike the irs ones are not sanded flat like the rocket rings.. there just stamped with a different center cutout... You still have to sand them tho.. But thanks for the info, I think im going to pick up a bag, and sand them... They look alot like the rocket ring cuts..
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Old 08-17-2006, 07:21 AM   #19964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corallyman
Adrian,

This was outside asphalt correct? Who had motor between you and Bruce. I need to get a new 19t soon. Thanks.

Steve
No, this was on a 96x48 carpet track.
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Old 08-17-2006, 07:45 PM   #19965
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Default New to 1/12 need help.

Hello. I just purchased a used RC12l4 and am new to the forums here. I have a few questions. First is the ESC wiring. The car came with a GM sx9 purple ESC. The wiring was kind of wierd on it and had one of the battery and motor wires soldered together. Meaning that there were only 3 wires soldered to the ESC instead of 4. It also had a black capicitor soldered inline on the leads. All that seemed wierd, so I soldered new deans wires to everything, but I was wondering what the capacitor and funny wiring was for?

I hope that makes sense. Also, does anyone have any good recommendations for an asphalt setup. There is a local track at hobbytown that I would like to get into racing at.

Lastly, I was wondering where I should order bearings from for the rc12l4. One of my front wheels has alot of wobble and a couple of my diff bearings are shot.
Thanks.
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