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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-13-2006, 07:21 PM   #19876
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theisgroup, I run 3000wt in my tubes. I found that 5000wt was still making the rear recover abit slow.

Oh, on another note, my speedo works fine now. I reset the setup as far as the throttle and brake. Also may be next time we won't break and it will be a better race. Tell David That I am looking for a better race next time.
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Old 08-13-2006, 07:47 PM   #19877
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also note that is the setup i used with a 10x2.if your damping is too thick,you will see the inside rear tire lift.also make sure that your rear pod is level and not sagging in the front.a pod that is lower in the front will break rear traction.try the damper discs on the car also.i tested with both and found the discs to maintain the damping.if you use sun tan lotion,make sure it is not a thick lotion.you want thin milky stuff that will absorb deep into the tire.i got more traction using the paragon and tweak so i stopped using the suntan lotion.tire treatment and selection is very important.if you have too much front traction i would check your pod droop.you do not want any more than 2mm because this will make the car too aggressive and create alot of double steer.you will get the front bite back with the lube on the kingpins.
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Old 08-13-2006, 08:12 PM   #19878
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jason,

I am running the original bmi12. any changes between the db12 and the bmi12 with this setup? if you have an extra db12 chassis plate, I might have to beg you to send it to me.
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Old 08-13-2006, 08:16 PM   #19879
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the prototype i am working with now is a little different but the setup is the same.i am experimenting with some stuff to make the car better.the car you have is dialed on asphalt.i spent alot of time with that car and just set the track record with it a few weeks back so you should be good buddy.when i finish testing and make the final changes,i will get you a new kit put aside.for now,the kit you are working with has been unbeatable around here.
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Old 08-13-2006, 08:17 PM   #19880
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Yang when can you bring the car over we can go thru all the little things and have you set up for next time
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Old 08-13-2006, 08:18 PM   #19881
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timbo,

how bout wednesday. i will trade you some moving muscle(what little I have) for some setup help.

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Old 08-13-2006, 08:21 PM   #19882
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that could work as I think we are both off that day
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Old 08-13-2006, 08:21 PM   #19883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
the prototype i am working with now is a little different but the setup is the same.i am experimenting with some stuff to make the car better.the car you have is dialed on asphalt.i spent alot of time with that car and just set the track record with it a few weeks back so you should be good buddy.when i finish testing and make the final changes,i will get you a new kit put aside.for now,the kit you are working with has been unbeatable around here.

that is great. I am glad to hear that the setup is about the same. I have to rely on the forum because we just don't have asphault in the Big D. so I will get 2 more weekend before our regionals. really not enough to get a good setup, when all i have ever run is carpet with 1/12.
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Old 08-13-2006, 08:58 PM   #19884
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no problem buddy.if you need any help,feel free to call or email
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Old 08-14-2006, 01:36 PM   #19885
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Hey guys..was running our door asphalt this weekend with my L4. Traction was inconsistant. The track was sprayed with fruit punch and was super stuck for the touring cars.
My set up was stock springs in front. Purp frnt, pink rear. Olive center spring 30 wt oil. .63 plate ride height was 4.5 and 1 deg toe in. After 3.5-4 minutes all my traction would be gone and I'd be literally sliding down the straightway sideways under power. I was using Paragon, then SPF 30 then both. both seemed to work the best but still didnt last longer than 3-4 minutes. Very strange, never had my car act the way it did. Also the track was somewhat bumpy causing the car so skip irratically entering/exiting corners?? Any setup tips that can help this? Drop to black center spring with 20 wt??? what should I do.

Makes the new carpet track opening up in SoCal area look better and better!!!
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Old 08-14-2006, 02:58 PM   #19886
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAL
Hey guys..was running our door asphalt this weekend with my L4. Traction was inconsistant. The track was sprayed with fruit punch and was super stuck for the touring cars.
My set up was stock springs in front. Purp frnt, pink rear. Olive center spring 30 wt oil. .63 plate ride height was 4.5 and 1 deg toe in. After 3.5-4 minutes all my traction would be gone and I'd be literally sliding down the straightway sideways under power. I was using Paragon, then SPF 30 then both. both seemed to work the best but still didnt last longer than 3-4 minutes. Very strange, never had my car act the way it did. Also the track was somewhat bumpy causing the car so skip irratically entering/exiting corners?? Any setup tips that can help this? Drop to black center spring with 20 wt??? what should I do.

Makes the new carpet track opening up in SoCal area look better and better!!!
ditch the suntan lotion and follow the paragon with sxt or tire tweek
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Old 08-14-2006, 03:24 PM   #19887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
ditch the suntan lotion and follow the paragon with sxt or tire tweek
i'll try it next time I go to that track, maybe I should switch to greens or whites in the back??
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Old 08-14-2006, 03:27 PM   #19888
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Black Paragon or Paragon FXII for 15 min followed by cheap runny spf 30-45 suntan lotion for 30 min is the ideal setup.

SXT thick and Tire Tweak will make your car really darty for the first 4 min of a race. The suntan lotion is more consistant. I used to use tweak but at the 2005 Nats I saw all the mod 12 guys passing a bottle of Target brand SPF 45 lorion around. I was Josh Cyrul's bottle. I asked him what was better tweak or suntan lotion and he said He had been using Suntan lotion at every Asphalt race since the 2000 IFMAR Worlds at Yatabe Arena in Japan. He started using it because Masami was using suntan lotion.

RAL - We need some more details. What do you tires look like when you come off the track. Clean and black or dusty (should be clean and black)? How many screws are you running to secure your rear pod to the t-bar (should be just the two outer screws). What size tires are you running? What body? What size front springs (should be .020"). How much pod droop do you have?

I think your lack of traction is a setup issue. Not a tire doping issue.

The best tire combo for asphalt are Jaco or TRC double pink wraps front and rear. You would think they would be darty and hard to control but they are faster and smoother than purples and pinks.

Greens and whites are used when you car is so locked down in the rear on asphalt that your traction is hurting your corner speed and efficiency. This is a pretty rare situation.
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Last edited by AdrianM; 08-14-2006 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 08-14-2006, 03:51 PM   #19889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Black Paragon or Paragon FXII for 15 min followed by cheap runny spf 30-45 suntan lotion for 30 min is the ideal setup.

SXT thick and Tire Tweak will make your car really darty for the first 4 min of a race. The suntan lotion is more consistant. I used to use tweak but at the 2005 Nats I saw all the mod 12 guys passing a bottle of Target brand SPF 45 lorion around. I was Josh Cyrul's bottle. I asked him what was better tweak or suntan lotion and he said He had been using Suntan lotion at every Asphalt race since the 2000 IFMAR Worlds at Yatabe Arena in Japan. He started using it because Masami was using suntan lotion.

RAL - We need some more details. What do you tires look like when you come off the track. Clean and black or dusty (should be clean and black)? How many screws are you running to secure your rear pod to the t-bar (should be just the two outer screws). What size tires are you running? What body? What size front springs (should be .020"). How much pod droop do you have?

I think your lack of traction is a setup issue. Not a tire doping issue.
I used Paragon Ground effects(black can), for 15 and coppertone 30 for 20 minutes on top rubbed into the foam. It worked well for the first 3-4 minutes then it turned into a drift car. Tires are clean and dry when they come off the track. Two outer screws .63 plate. level pod. front springs are .020. The track was super sticky/glazed with fruit punch syrup/water mix(great rubber traction for my TC, you could feel/hear the stickyness with your shoes). Batteries in back. Thicker damper lube seemed to increase rear traction while increasing the irratic movment over small bumps(throwing the car off line). Acceleration in sweepers was nearly impossibe without spinning out and unless you were dead on straight coming onto the straight-a-way then wild drifting or a spin would occur. Paragon on the inside 1/2 of the front followed by full suntan lotion was better then only 1/2 for both paragon and lotion. the track was hot, perhaps the heat had dried the tires out too quickley?? Tweak was on as well. 19 KD with a 52mm rollout. I will say it could be setup bit all the 12rs were equally crippled. It was who could spin out less and drift better!

I TQ'd then my car was crap in the main. Good times!
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Last edited by RAL; 08-14-2006 at 04:04 PM.
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Old 08-14-2006, 04:00 PM   #19890
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you had the same problem that I did this weekend. an the setup was also exaclty the same. I ran 4-4.5mm ride height. and I was running a reedy 3star brushless.
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