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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-12-2006, 11:01 AM   #19861
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works very well
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Old 08-13-2006, 03:17 PM   #19862
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i ran the new diff rings today.the car was extremely good and rotated extremely well.the car felt alot more smoothe in the corners and allowed me to turn the fastest lap ever run on this track layout even with the track not as good as it usually is.the diff did pick up dirt and beat down the diff balls and scar the diff rings on the one side.i just rebuilt the diff with new diff balls and flipped the rings and it feels silky smoothe again.the flanged bearing that i use for the thrust bearing is still like new after a full day of running being that i didnt have to load the snot out of it.if i was to run on carpet the dirt would not have been an issue.the one thing i can say is that in no way could i ever get the diff this free with the stock rings.it definately improved the handling of the car.i am always trying to get the diff as free as possible while being locked at the same time.it is crazy how loose it feels while it is locked.i am truly sold that it worked.this is the best my car has ever felt.
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Old 08-13-2006, 03:34 PM   #19863
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Jason

can you pm me your setup info for the db12 when you guys ran the mods?

Adrian,

I am also looking for youse setup, since you ran the brushless.

oh this is for asphault. i only run carpet, but our regionals is coming up and it is on the black top

thanks
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Old 08-13-2006, 03:35 PM   #19864
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sure,for asphalt or carpet?
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Old 08-13-2006, 03:39 PM   #19865
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adrians setup will make you glitch
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Old 08-13-2006, 03:41 PM   #19866
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lol, maybe i should skip that one then.
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Old 08-13-2006, 03:57 PM   #19867
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how did SA go Yang?
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Old 08-13-2006, 04:00 PM   #19868
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still a lot to learn about running on asphault. i had plenty of steering but not enough rear tracktion. the first 5-10 laps were ok, but then the car would do 360s when i got on throttle. no matter how easy i was with it. I need to check the sphere and make sure that what setting I have on it.

that is why I was looking for setup help from adrian and jason.
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Old 08-13-2006, 04:11 PM   #19869
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that shouldnt happen buddy.this is what i ran

Rear:
.063 T plate
olive spring w/ 25 wt oil
4mm ride height
1.800 tires double pink wraps(TRC)
1.5mm up travel for the pod droop
5000 wt. 1/8 diff oil on washers.make sure you rub the washers real good onto the top plate to create a nice seal.
batteries as far back as they go and run the rear track width at about 168mm

Front:
10 degree castor blocks shimmed to center
.020 front springs / 5000wt. diff oil on the king pins
1.5 degree camber
3.75 mm ride height
no droop
double pink wraps cut to 1.725(TRC)


i ran a parma speed 8 body and i sauced full rear with paragon and half of the inside front.i let it sit for about 10 minutes and then put tire tweak on top of the paragon until my race was up.this was about 20 minutes with the tire tweak.wipe the tires really good,do a few donuts or high speed slaloms to scuff the tires in.car should be awesome with that setup.
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Old 08-13-2006, 04:12 PM   #19870
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also,i dont run the center screw on the T plate
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Old 08-13-2006, 05:05 PM   #19871
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Yang,
If you plan on going abck down to SA before regionals let me know a few weeks before nad i might make it down with ya. How similar was the SA surface to the BMI track?
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Old 08-13-2006, 05:33 PM   #19872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burbs
Niftech sells rings like these called rocket rings.. there also super machines for a ton less weight on the axle.. tho there about 14 bucks a pair i havent bought any..

I always sand my rings on a big knife sharpening block, then do 800/100/1500 grit sandparer till they are flat and smooth.. Diff action is second to none.. Its a pain in the butt.. would be nice to buy a decent set for a reasonable price.. ive also taken a set to work, and had them smashed in a press.. this works well to..
burbs - IRS has lightened diff rings too. They are designed for D-ring diffs and have the center of gravity located at the axis of rotation to reduce vibration. $6 for a 4 pack is way cheaper then the rocket rings.



link: http://www.teamirsrc.com/topgun.html
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Old 08-13-2006, 06:55 PM   #19873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Yang,
If you plan on going abck down to SA before regionals let me know a few weeks before nad i might make it down with ya. How similar was the SA surface to the BMI track?
I think there are plans for the second weekend in september. the bmi surface is similar, but they only run mod for club race and there is no way a 10double or 9double would work at bmi.
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Old 08-13-2006, 07:02 PM   #19874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
that shouldnt happen buddy.this is what i ran

Rear:
.063 T plate
olive spring w/ 25 wt oil
4mm ride height
1.800 tires double pink wraps(TRC)
1.5mm up travel for the pod droop
5000 wt. 1/8 diff oil on washers.make sure you rub the washers real good onto the top plate to create a nice seal.
batteries as far back as they go and run the rear track width at about 168mm

Front:
10 degree castor blocks shimmed to center
.020 front springs / 5000wt. diff oil on the king pins
1.5 degree camber
3.75 mm ride height
no droop
double pink wraps cut to 1.725(TRC)


i ran a parma speed 8 body and i sauced full rear with paragon and half of the inside front.i let it sit for about 10 minutes and then put tire tweak on top of the paragon until my race was up.this was about 20 minutes with the tire tweak.wipe the tires really good,do a few donuts or high speed slaloms to scuff the tires in.car should be awesome with that setup.
thanks for the setup. I am not sure what was going on this past weekend. This is the first on asphault for me this year. I am really thinking that I heated the rear tire too much and that is why it just had no tracktion. there are a couple of thing in your setup I can try. having the rake in the chassis seams like it would help with rear traction on power and also the reduction in track width in the rear.also I think the thinner lub. I was using a heavier lub in my tubes. so I may need to go lighter. I know that it takes away front steering, but I had plenty. I was using suntan lotion over the paragon. But I don't think i worked it in enough. I am also going to tear the entire car down and see if there maybe a locked bearing or something that may cause my problems.
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Old 08-13-2006, 07:14 PM   #19875
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protc3 ....you have pm
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