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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-11-2006, 06:18 PM   #19846
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ride height adjusters are in the rear pod plates.they are plastic inserts.you only need to shim the front arms for larger front tire sizes.
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Old 08-11-2006, 06:19 PM   #19847
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tweak screws do not effect your ride height.they just tilt the T Plate back and forth so that you can level it.
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Old 08-11-2006, 06:40 PM   #19848
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ok im getting there. just one more thing. what if my right side is off with .5mm, assuming i got same size if tires.. i did not have front ride height spacer on my kit. i . i dont know why. or do the kit come with one?
and also my gear mesh is not quit meshing.lol. i have a stock motor with 100t spur and 30t pinion. would taking the middle screw and locknuts wont affect how the car feels on asphalt track?how about i take those t-bar spacers to lower my t-bar.is it a wise thing to do...

by the way jason thanx for your willingness to help
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Old 08-11-2006, 06:48 PM   #19849
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Default Pingoy,

More than likely your front suspension is not free and that will account for some of the ride height difference along with the tires.

Here is a link to mark Paynes site (http://www.12thrc.com ). He has a lot of good info on setting up a Carpet Knife and some of it you can apply to your car. Look for the info on setting up the front suspension and that should help some of the problems with your ride height.

Don't get overwhelmed with what he has on there. Take what information you need and do what you are comfortable with and enjoy your car.

Greg
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Old 08-11-2006, 06:55 PM   #19850
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that was a nice link you gave me but i didnt find my answer for the gear mesh. for a 100t spur and 30t pinion. it wont fit will taking the middle screw from the lower pod helps? or taking the t-bar spacer help?
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Old 08-11-2006, 06:56 PM   #19851
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Default Tire Size

Quote:
If your running a komodo dragon 19 turn i would cut them to 1.850 rear and 1.750 front.let me know which motor your running and i can give you a real good ball park figure.
Quote:
As a fellow Corally driver (15+ years) we do not have the ride height adjustment as some of the other cars out there. However to give you some dirrection, need to know what motor you are running, how you have it set up and your ground clearance.

Normally I get the roll out correct for the motor, then look at the tire dia and spur gear, yes you can get the tire to small, so the spur hits!!

Let me know and I'll see what help.
I am currently running the Corally 19t motor but also have the EA Komodo as well. Being new to the car I am running a ride hieght of 5mm I do believe.

I really dont even know where to start.

Thanks
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Old 08-11-2006, 07:03 PM   #19852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinggoy
ok im getting there. just one more thing. what if my right side is off with .5mm, assuming i got same size if tires.. i did not have front ride height spacer on my kit. i . i dont know why. or do the kit come with one?
and also my gear mesh is not quit meshing.lol. i have a stock motor with 100t spur and 30t pinion. would taking the middle screw and locknuts wont affect how the car feels on asphalt track?how about i take those t-bar spacers to lower my t-bar.is it a wise thing to do...

by the way jason thanx for your willingness to help

for asphalt you definately want to remove the center screw.this will make your T plate have a softer feel when your suspension is comressed.you will not want to run the center screw.the T bar spacers need to be there.the purpose of them is so your lower pod plate is level with the chassis.also,do not use the front arm brace that goes between the front arms.this will bind and tweak the front end of the car and cause the ride height difference.also make sure your camber is dead even left to right.you want about 1 degree per side to start.if you adjust the camber to the track so that your tires wear straight and not coned.if your camber is different on each side,you will have the inside of the tire lifting one side more than the other causing ride height variation.
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Old 08-11-2006, 07:05 PM   #19853
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run the EA komodo with the tire sizes i gave you.that will give ya rollout in the 49mm range which is where you want to be.
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Old 08-11-2006, 07:06 PM   #19854
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5mm ride height is fine if there are bumps.on a smoothe track i run 4-4.5
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:52 AM   #19855
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinggoy
hi i know you guys can help me out with this. i just built my 12l4 and just finished it. i notice when i measure the ride height the left side is 5 front and 5.5 rear, and my right side is 5.5 front and 6 rear. i just followed the box set up. and also whats the use of the use of the tweak set screw. i mean i know the word tweak but how does that work?
As long as you get the 'coin drop' tweek test right (see Mark's website) the car will handle fine. With all the manufacturing tolerances in all those moulded and machined parts, that sort of error is inevitable.

If everything plays in your favour, it'll all come out perfect, but if it doesn't (as you and hundreds of drivers discover) it doesn't matter enough to chase down the cause - better to be roughly right than precisely wrong!! HTH
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Old 08-12-2006, 06:12 AM   #19856
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Originally Posted by protc3
hey guys,

i am testing out some new diff rings that i made for the big ring diff axle.they are flat and parallel within .0002".my diff feels like it is not even tightened yet the diff doesnt slip.the stock rings have up to a .007 cone to them from the stamping process which will decrees the life of the diff components.i will let you know how they hold up after a full day of asphalt racing.if my reasoning is correct,they should long outlast the stock rings and also increase the life of the rest of the components also due to the lessened side load needed to stop slippage.
Sounds Damn Good
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Old 08-12-2006, 06:35 AM   #19857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
hey guys,

i am testing out some new diff rings that i made for the big ring diff axle.they are flat and parallel within .0002".my diff feels like it is not even tightened yet the diff doesnt slip.the stock rings have up to a .007 cone to them from the stamping process which will decrees the life of the diff components.i will let you know how they hold up after a full day of asphalt racing.if my reasoning is correct,they should long outlast the stock rings and also increase the life of the rest of the components also due to the lessened side load needed to stop slippage.

Niftech sells rings like these called rocket rings.. there also super machines for a ton less weight on the axle.. tho there about 14 bucks a pair i havent bought any..

I always sand my rings on a big knife sharpening block, then do 800/100/1500 grit sandparer till they are flat and smooth.. Diff action is second to none.. Its a pain in the butt.. would be nice to buy a decent set for a reasonable price.. ive also taken a set to work, and had them smashed in a press.. this works well to..
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Old 08-12-2006, 08:13 AM   #19858
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I am currently running the Corally 19t motor but also have the EA Komodo as well. Being new to the car I am running a ride hieght of 5mm I do believe.

I really dont even know where to start.

Thanks

I'm using a 96 tooth spur, 4.5mm clearance and a roll out of 1.90 with the Komodo. The Corally can be a little taller at 1.93-1.95 as it has a little more torque. The 49mm is at 1.93 (49mm / 25.4) so the same answer from both of us.
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Old 08-12-2006, 10:56 AM   #19859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burbs
Niftech sells rings like these called rocket rings.. there also super machines for a ton less weight on the axle.. tho there about 14 bucks a pair i havent bought any..

I always sand my rings on a big knife sharpening block, then do 800/100/1500 grit sandparer till they are flat and smooth.. Diff action is second to none.. Its a pain in the butt.. would be nice to buy a decent set for a reasonable price.. ive also taken a set to work, and had them smashed in a press.. this works well to..
i have been sanding the rings also but to get them parallel is impossible with sanding.the amount mine were coned was amazing.i never realized they were that bad.if all goes well i will try to keep em under 10 bucks a pair.
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Old 08-12-2006, 11:00 AM   #19860
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Ever tried surface grinding diff rings, Jason?
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