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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-09-2006, 05:37 AM   #19786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSchorr
Hey,

I am venturing over into 12th scale, Thinking about getting the CRC 3.2R car. I like it mainly cause it has all the nice red screws and parts, Also, i liked the idea of a 4 cell side be side pack, seems so much nicer and cleaner. Any thoughts on it? I see that Marc Rhienart drives one also What differences are there between the Link Car and teh T-Bar Car. Like driving differences and such. Im really into 1/10th sedan, but wanting to venture over into 12th!
Great choice. The CRC 3.2R is an awesome car. The fit and finish is great and I found that my Knife tends to be more nimble and quick in the turns than my T-Fource. The t-bar car seems a bit more pushy, which can be good sometimes, but like all t-bar cars, much more fragile.

One of the nicest things about the Knife is the cell configuration and the O-Ring! The solid 4 cell pack is easier to handle than split saddle packs and the O-ring works great. The o-ring holds the cells very solid and only the most severe head-on crashes can cause them to move. I have had severe crashes that totally destroyed the tape on my other cars, so tape is not 100% either. Besides, the 3.2R has area to use tape as well.

Most of the cars out there are pretty good, I like the CRC stuff because they really are into 1/12th scale, always making new and improved items, pushing the envelope. They make their own parts, the hubs, bulkheads, front end parts, shock, etc... unlike many of the other manufactures who are nothing more than a graphite plate sprinkled with Associated, CRC and IRS parts.
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Old 08-09-2006, 07:20 AM   #19787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louis
How do I adjust the rear pod droop ?? I'm running a CRC 3.2R

I heard that less droop makes the car smoother into corners.

Thanks
You cut a couple millimeters off your shock end ball cups and thred them on more. The shorter shock reduces pod droop.

For carpet run zero to 1mm of droop. The more traction the less droop you will need.

For asphalt run 1-2mm of droop. The more droop you run the more weight transfer you will get off power. This improves turn in.

Note that since we are usually on power over 99% of the track this adjustment does not affect our cars as much. It will help you car get into tight low speed corners when you really do have to get off the throttle.

Reduced pod droop will reduce rear traction (mainly forward bite) on bumpy tracks.
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Old 08-09-2006, 08:50 AM   #19788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CARPET ROCKET
Hi All.. I just purchased a CRC T Force kit.. It came with there Optional grafite t plate.. I built the car with it and it seems very very stiff... What type of track or cinditions is this t plate used for.. Ive been racing for 20 years, but ive never seen a 12th scale plate like this.. thanks
Work well on carpet till it breaks run an 0.63 t-bar for carpet trust me it cheaper than breaking the carbon fibre one.
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Old 08-09-2006, 10:58 AM   #19789
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I think that in the near future their will probably be a Rev. 4.5 conversion as I think Speedmerchant is switching over to a 4 bolt rear end for everything.

As far as a CF t-bar, I dont think anyone really runs one, and alot of people I know will even run a 63 t-bar on carpet, and if a 75 is too stiff than i imagine a cf one is way too stiff, also the way it rebounds back is totally different and might make the car a bit screwy on the track.
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Old 08-09-2006, 11:51 AM   #19790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
O-rings and carbon straps are potential causes for tweaked 1/12th and sedan chassis. Everyone fast uses strapping tape in 1/12th and on sedans.
Yes your right about sedans, but in 12 scale tape has been a norm. For as long as I have been racing, since 1986 tape has been the preferd method. I remember people using tie wraps, and velcro strapps. None of the alternate methods worked back then. But as far as non tape cars my Quad 12 doesnt suffer tweak issuse. The PRC system is tweak proof. Doug has designed a tapless retention system that dont suffer from tweaking when hit hard.


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Old 08-09-2006, 01:08 PM   #19791
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are my posts invisible, ive posted a few questions and got nothin back?

hey, my club has recently aquired some brand spankin new ozite carpet for this upcomming indoor season, what is a good tire combination for a 3.2r carpet knife on brand new, untouched carpet??

i think everyone is gunna have to throw out there notes this year. lol
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Old 08-09-2006, 02:03 PM   #19792
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jarrodh,

Until a grove gets put down on the track it will be a little slick so try doping a little more on the fronts and stick with the same tire combination that you were running before.

I run purple/grey or purple/pink with good results.

Clean your car real well between runs, because the new carpet sheds a lot of fuzz and you would be surprised at how tightly it gets packed into things.

Greg
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Old 08-09-2006, 04:34 PM   #19793
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thats what i was running before on the old carpet, purple/grey

i thaught you would change compounds untill the carpet gets some foam down(we switch track layout every week).softer compuonds?

thanks
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Old 08-09-2006, 04:57 PM   #19794
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You can try a softer compund if you feel the need, but the track is going to be slick until it gets a grove.

Hopefully you run at a place that gets a good turnout of touring and 12th. If so, it won't take long to get the grove in the carpet (couple heats) and the traction will come up.

I would rather try a little more traction compound first than do a tire swap. If the bite is not there then go to a softer compound. Just be prepared to switch back as the race day goes on and the traction comes up.

Greg
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Old 08-09-2006, 07:12 PM   #19795
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Default Batteries IB 4200 or Gp4300

Well time to think about racing on the rug with 1/12 scale car for the winter.

My GP3700's are tired so whats anyone's thought on cells at this time? I'll be running stock and 19 turn. Track is 90 x 45.

Thanks in Advance
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Old 08-09-2006, 07:46 PM   #19796
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It's about time to graduate to 4200+ cells. I prefer IB's myself. What a transition from my GP's to IB's. I wonder what the new GP's will be like.
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Old 08-09-2006, 08:09 PM   #19797
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Cant go wrong with the new latest and greatest IB SHV4200's. Talk about runtime!
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Old 08-09-2006, 08:14 PM   #19798
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Explain this, for about three months, my IP3800 and IB3800 sat on the Tekin Battery Doctor and the IB packed 5130 Mah and the IP 4950 Mah. Both around 6v.I had fun running the 1:12 that day. Both in the past were around 4500 Mah. Both Lightspeed packs.
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Old 08-09-2006, 10:16 PM   #19799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Actually I like something Adrian said a few pages ago...

"Pick a car you think looks cool and drive it."

Or something to that effect. I think in the 1/12th market especially that's completely true.
No doubt on that. One of the things that has drawn me more to 12th is that everyone seams to respect what everyone else drives. Not so much with TC go to one track brand X is the '$hit', go to another track it's a different story. Less vibes make better racing for me. 12th scale has been really cool so far .
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Old 08-09-2006, 10:21 PM   #19800
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt
No doubt on that. One of the things that has drawn me more to 12th is that everyone seams to respect what everyone else drives. Not so much with TC go to one track brand X is the '$hit', go to another track it's a different story. Less vibes make better racing for me. 12th scale has been really cool so far .

We just had a carpet race in FL and there were more 1/12th 19T entries than in any single sedan class. 18 1/12th cars and more more than 10 in any sedan class.
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