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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-08-2006, 06:53 AM   #19771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
Hey man I am pretty new to 12th as well, I raced a few times with a 12l4 but now have a CRC 3.1 (pretty much upgraded to 3.2) and I really like it on asphalt. The battery layout with the o-ring strap is nice and simple and it seams to be well balanced. T-bar is more agressive from what I can tell but I have been more consistant with the link set-up. Ultimatetly I think the fastest laps can be set with the t-bar (asphalt and maybe carpet), I will go that way once I have more time under my belt... as for now, I would say you have a great choice with the 3.2. it's pretty much tweek-free and easy to drive! On another note I ran my TC for the first time on sunday after a month or so of only 12th and wow! I could'nt beleive how much faster I was-- 12th really makes you a better driver once you get the hang of it. I love it so much now that I have jumped into it .

John knows first hand how aggressive the T-bar car is
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Old 08-08-2006, 10:26 AM   #19772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Sup Ian...you going to come out and run with us at Platinum. We may actually have a 1/12th mod class forming.
If I can ever break away from my personal ball and chain, (Hobbytown Centerville's parking lot racing on Sunday), I'll try to venture out that way. I'll see if I can drag Pulfer out as well.
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Old 08-08-2006, 10:41 AM   #19773
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BSchorr,

Don't buy the CRC car. if yoy decide to go with a link car I would recommend the Speedmerchent Rev.4 over the crc anyday. The calandra's o-ring battery hold just isn't strong enough for today's heavier batts. Minor impacts are likely to cause the cells to shift or bounce damaging their shrink and in a hard off the o-ring can come off and the batts could impact your shock breaking it. The crc chassis is wider and tappered around the cells compared to the rev.4 making it difficult to tape the batts in and more likely to rub in the turns.

Mark
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Old 08-08-2006, 10:45 AM   #19774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
BSchorr,

Don't buy the CRC car. if yoy decide to go with a link car I would recommend the Speedmerchent Rev.4 over the crc anyday. The calandra's o-ring battery hold just isn't strong enough for today's heavier batts. Minor impacts are likely to cause the cells to shift or bounce damaging their shrink and in a hard off the o-ring can come off and the batts could impact your shock breaking it. The crc chassis is wider and tappered around the cells compared to the rev.4 making it difficult to tape the batts in and more likely to rub in the turns.

Mark

A thin (1/4") wide piece of tape along with the battery o-ring insures that the batteries always stay in. I put the tape towards the back of the cvhassis (behind the o-ring) to stop any posible lifting of the battery. I wont argue the CRC vs. the Rev.4, but to tell someone DONT buy a very good car...
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Old 08-08-2006, 11:40 AM   #19775
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I had both the 3.2 and a rev.4 and the o-ring thing on the 3.2 for me was enough of a bother to sell the car and get the rev.4. The tapper around the batt arear on the crc just made it too dificult to tape the batts in snugly.
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Old 08-08-2006, 11:42 AM   #19776
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
A thin (1/4") wide piece of tape along with the battery o-ring insures that the batteries always stay in. I put the tape towards the back of the cvhassis (behind the o-ring) to stop any posible lifting of the battery. I wont argue the CRC vs. the Rev.4, but to tell someone DONT buy a very good car...
Don't hold Mark and his recommendations against him, we don't ....
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Old 08-08-2006, 11:51 AM   #19777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
I had both the 3.2 and a rev.4 and the o-ring thing on the 3.2 for me was enough of a bother to sell the car and get the rev.4. The tapper around the batt arear on the crc just made it too dificult to tape the batts in snugly.
It's nice to see your passionate about the SM. But as Ray said... to tell someone to not buy a good car is silly. No I've not owned a SM car. Never could get a hold of anyone to even find out about carrying them at the store.

Eric
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Old 08-08-2006, 12:16 PM   #19778
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I'm not saying the crc doesn't perform, just that their battery retension system is sketchy at best. On track I found my rev.4 and ck 3.2 to drive equally well, but in my book the rev.4 wins due to its more secure battery retension. Now if your good enough to not clip any dots, pipes, burms or bumps the o-ring will work just fine. The o-ring system was a good idea when they came up with it but the cells we use now are much heavier than the 1400s back then and it just isn't strong enough for the extra weight.
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Old 08-08-2006, 12:51 PM   #19779
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O-rings and carbon straps are potential causes for tweaked 1/12th and sedan chassis. Everyone fast uses strapping tape in 1/12th and on sedans.
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Old 08-08-2006, 01:31 PM   #19780
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Hmmm.... You mean to tell me that this WHOLE time my driving has been inferior because I use an o-ring and a CF strap to hold in my batteries. DOH!!! I'd better take those things off my car right away so that I can be fast.

Adrian... Will you give me a sponsorship since I'm going to use tape now. I'll be fast.

E
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Old 08-08-2006, 05:12 PM   #19781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
John knows first hand how aggressive the T-bar car is
THANX MR. CHIME-IN!!!!!!!!!!!!

Every car is good it's just what you do to it with set-up that matters, I have my car set-up with a pretty soft spring and not much dual rate. As I get faster I will dial in a heavier spring rate and more steering, not to mention a more agressive shell, ect. It's all a progression.
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Old 08-08-2006, 08:19 PM   #19782
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Actually I like something Adrian said a few pages ago...

"Pick a car you think looks cool and drive it."

Or something to that effect. I think in the 1/12th market especially that's completely true.
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Old 08-08-2006, 09:01 PM   #19783
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Anyone here knows here if Speedmerchant will be coming out with a 12L4 conversion to 4.5? Newbie to 12 scale and is just interested in trying out a spring type car.
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Old 08-09-2006, 01:57 AM   #19784
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How do I adjust the rear pod droop ?? I'm running a CRC 3.2R

I heard that less droop makes the car smoother into corners.

Thanks
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Old 08-09-2006, 04:01 AM   #19785
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Hi All.. I just purchased a CRC T Force kit.. It came with there Optional grafite t plate.. I built the car with it and it seems very very stiff... What type of track or cinditions is this t plate used for.. Ive been racing for 20 years, but ive never seen a 12th scale plate like this.. thanks
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