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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-07-2006, 06:22 AM   #19756
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I've been told to many different things about the center shock. Softer oil gives more or less traction? does a stiffer center springer give more steering? I wish I had more time to test these things

I'm running an indoor asphalt track with alot of traction. I'm running running 50wt oil with 6.0 spring and nothing on disk. .020 front spring. I feel that I need to loosen the rear of the car up so it will rotate faster on tight corners. Should I drop to 40 wt oil? I'm running stock.
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Old 08-07-2006, 06:34 AM   #19757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRW141
I've been told to many different things about the center shock. Softer oil gives more or less traction? does a stiffer center springer give more steering? I wish I had more time to test these things

I'm running an indoor asphalt track with alot of traction. I'm running running 50wt oil with 6.0 spring and nothing on disk. .020 front spring. I feel that I need to loosen the rear of the car up so it will rotate faster on tight corners. Should I drop to 40 wt oil? I'm running stock.
i do'nt know much about 12ths as i only just got one myself but the guy that i got it from is one of the quickest 12thscale drivers around our neck of the woods and he uses 10w-20w in the centre shock.
do'nt know the reason for this but it's run on out door asphalt track and works very well
sorry to create more questions than answers
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Old 08-07-2006, 09:47 AM   #19758
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There are 2 seperate adjustments to the center shock
1 Oil. Controls the front to rear grip bias.
Light oil--> balance to rear (more rear traction)
Heavy oil --> balance to front (more front traction/steering).
Best use a very weak oil with a softer front tire compound, for example a magenta instead of a purple for more overall traction instead of heavy oil and a hard front tire.

2 Spring. Controls on and off power steering.
Stiff spring --> much on-power steering, little off power steering
Soft spring --> much off power steering, little on power steering (less spinouts coming out of the corner
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Old 08-07-2006, 10:17 AM   #19759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
There are 2 seperate adjustments to the center shock
1 Oil. Controls the front to rear grip bias.
Light oil--> balance to rear (more rear traction)
Heavy oil --> balance to front (more front traction/steering).
Best use a very weak oil with a softer front tire compound, for example a magenta instead of a purple for more overall traction instead of heavy oil and a hard front tire.

2 Spring. Controls on and off power steering.
Stiff spring --> much on-power steering, little off power steering
Soft spring --> much off power steering, little on power steering (less spinouts coming out of the corner
cool, thanks P'T'H, that makes it much easier to understand
would light oil with medium spring and .020 front springs work well with i think a .67 / 1.67 or something like that thickness t plate on my L3?
i'm just guessing that it's a medium sprin on the car at the moment
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Old 08-07-2006, 11:12 AM   #19760
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I wanted to convert my L4 with tubes. I found the topdeck I need and the tubes, but am not sure which cross brace i needed. I wanted to make it a 6 pack with an L4 chassis for better explanation. will the crc part number 1370 cross plate work?

thank
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Old 08-07-2006, 12:10 PM   #19761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
There are 2 seperate adjustments to the center shock
1 Oil. Controls the front to rear grip bias.
Light oil--> balance to rear (more rear traction)
Heavy oil --> balance to front (more front traction/steering).
Best use a very weak oil with a softer front tire compound, for example a magenta instead of a purple for more overall traction instead of heavy oil and a hard front tire.

2 Spring. Controls on and off power steering.
Stiff spring --> much on-power steering, little off power steering
Soft spring --> much off power steering, little on power steering (less spinouts coming out of the corner
I just wanted to give you a big thanks too; this is exactly what I've been scratching my head on (among other things )
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:07 PM   #19762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itchy b
cool, thanks P'T'H, that makes it much easier to understand
would light oil with medium spring and .020 front springs work well with i think a .67 / 1.67 or something like that thickness t plate on my L3?
i'm just guessing that it's a medium sprin on the car at the moment
Sounds like a pretty standard setup to me , and that's a good thing.
Just try it. If the car understeers, try a softer front tire.
Put the batteries full aft for more steering into the corner, and more rear traction out of the corner, and you should be on the right track.
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:08 PM   #19763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
I just wanted to give you a big thanks too; this is exactly what I've been scratching my head on (among other things )
always there to help
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Old 08-07-2006, 03:40 PM   #19764
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hey guys

quick servo question

running a 12L4 with a KO 949

What servo saver should i use with it???

thanks
Chris
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Old 08-07-2006, 03:49 PM   #19765
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i would recommend use the kimbrough medium servo saver.
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Old 08-07-2006, 04:25 PM   #19766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris08527
hey guys

quick servo question

running a 12L4 with a KO 949

What servo saver should i use with it???

thanks
Chris
Kimbrough #113, 23 spline, small servo saver.
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Old 08-07-2006, 06:03 PM   #19767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro ten Holland
Sounds like a pretty standard setup to me , and that's a good thing.
Just try it. If the car understeers, try a softer front tire.
Put the batteries full aft for more steering into the corner, and more rear traction out of the corner, and you should be on the right track.
thanks P'T'H, will be using purple fronts and pink rears to start with as that combo seems to be the one most guys at the track are using and will go from there
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Old 08-07-2006, 07:13 PM   #19768
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Hey,

I am venturing over into 12th scale, Thinking about getting the CRC 3.2R car. I like it mainly cause it has all the nice red screws and parts, Also, i liked the idea of a 4 cell side be side pack, seems so much nicer and cleaner. Any thoughts on it? I see that Marc Rhienart drives one also What differences are there between the Link Car and teh T-Bar Car. Like driving differences and such. Im really into 1/10th sedan, but wanting to venture over into 12th!
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Old 08-08-2006, 01:45 AM   #19769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSchorr
Hey,

I am venturing over into 12th scale, Thinking about getting the CRC 3.2R car. I like it mainly cause it has all the nice red screws and parts, Also, i liked the idea of a 4 cell side be side pack, seems so much nicer and cleaner. Any thoughts on it? I see that Marc Rhienart drives one also What differences are there between the Link Car and teh T-Bar Car. Like driving differences and such. Im really into 1/10th sedan, but wanting to venture over into 12th!
Hey man I am pretty new to 12th as well, I raced a few times with a 12l4 but now have a CRC 3.1 (pretty much upgraded to 3.2) and I really like it on asphalt. The battery layout with the o-ring strap is nice and simple and it seams to be well balanced. T-bar is more agressive from what I can tell but I have been more consistant with the link set-up. Ultimatetly I think the fastest laps can be set with the t-bar (asphalt and maybe carpet), I will go that way once I have more time under my belt... as for now, I would say you have a great choice with the 3.2. it's pretty much tweek-free and easy to drive! On another note I ran my TC for the first time on sunday after a month or so of only 12th and wow! I could'nt beleive how much faster I was-- 12th really makes you a better driver once you get the hang of it. I love it so much now that I have jumped into it .
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Old 08-08-2006, 02:39 AM   #19770
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I can't imagine buying another touring kit, not to say it won't happen, but with the many kit changes during a year it justifies my presence in 1:12. Less money spent = ten times the fun! Yeah, 1:12 will dial-in your skillz!
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