R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-02-2006, 11:45 AM   #19711
Tech Elite
 
dr_hfuhuhurr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 4,422
Trader Rating: 69 (100%+)
Default

Antenna length? With the spectrum Rx wire being so short what's the conventional wisdom on the rollover antenna now? I like the no antenna out of the body look but I've been told that the rollover will save me quite a bit of headache. What's the thoughts here?

I mean if I just don't hit the boards and keep it COMPLETELY clean for 8 minutes what's the problem? LOL, like that will happen.
__________________
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness. Which side are you on?"

“Life is hard; it's harder if you're stupid.” - John Wayne
dr_hfuhuhurr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2006, 01:16 PM   #19712
Tech Champion
 
rayhuang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang
Default

Blake-you have to run a rollover, if not any crash and your lightweight wedge bodied car will barrell roll or slide forever and when it does hit something on its lid-BAM!!!!
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2006, 02:25 PM   #19713
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,515
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i...full car.the full car will be mostly machined parts which means accuracy.i was thinking of buying the components OEM but decided to go the extra mile by making my own axle/diff,majority of the front end components,and some of the other odds and ends.
what type of front end will you be making (associated stye)? or do you mean that you will purchace arms, etc from say crc, or do you have the ability to buy your own delrin stock and mill it yourself.

I'd like to try out your car, but I think I'd like to have tubes instead of disks. Is that going to be an option? Also I'll be waiting for a kit as I don't care to do a conversion since I only have one car.

Thanks,
E
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2006, 03:01 PM   #19714
Tech Elite
 
squarehead's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Wheaton, Illinois
Posts: 4,210
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to squarehead Send a message via MSN to squarehead Send a message via Yahoo to squarehead Send a message via Skype™ to squarehead
Default

The db12 comes with 2 setups to run either disks or dampner tubes. Stupid-nice setup, even if it DOES have a T-bar.
__________________
Everything depends.
Nothing is always.
Everything is sometimes.
squarehead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2006, 03:37 PM   #19715
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
what type of front end will you be making (associated stye)? or do you mean that you will purchace arms, etc from say crc, or do you have the ability to buy your own delrin stock and mill it yourself.

I'd like to try out your car, but I think I'd like to have tubes instead of disks. Is that going to be an option? Also I'll be waiting for a kit as I don't care to do a conversion since I only have one car.

Thanks,
E

apex speed is correct.our car comes with 2 top plates for the rear pod and the cross brace is drilled for tubes.i will be making a AE style front end for the car.i have an 11,000 square ft machine shop/sheetmetal fabrication shop with alot of high volume CNC machinery.i will be working on the new parts very shortly.i want to finalize all of the latest upgrades for my kit along with a very cool style T plate rear suspension.if all goes well,T plate cars will not be at a disadvantage on bumpy tracks.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2006, 03:38 PM   #19716
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 25,177
Trader Rating: 140 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
apex speed is correct.our car comes with 2 top plates for the rear pod and the cross brace is drilled for tubes.i will be making a AE style front end for the car.i have an 11,000 square ft machine shop/sheetmetal fabrication shop with alot of high volume CNC machinery.i will be working on the new parts very shortly.i want to finalize all of the latest upgrades for my kit along with a very cool style T plate rear suspension.if all goes well,T plate cars will not be at a disadvantage on bumpy tracks.
Way to go J!!!
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2006, 03:50 PM   #19717
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2006, 04:54 PM   #19718
RAL
Tech Elite
 
RAL's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 2,205
Trader Rating: 58 (100%+)
Default

Where does the Parma Zytec fit in the body selection. They are cool in a retro TOJ kind of way. How does the DF compare to the Protoform Speed 12 and Parma Speed bodies?? Is it ok for outdoor asphalt??
__________________
TEAM ARAI GRIP ● J★STYLE ● P1 BRAND ● RÄLDESIGNWERKS ● FANTOM ● EXOTEK
RAL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2006, 05:32 PM   #19719
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,515
Default

protc3,
thanks for the answer. I know that you have quite a shop to work from. I mainly asked for someone who maybe new to the thread.

Try not to take too long to get that kit in production. I'd really like to try it out as the rear pod to chassis area is different from the rest and I like the small things that you do with your chassis designs.

E
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2006, 05:36 PM   #19720
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

thanks buddy.i will try to keep it moving quickly.there will be some pretty cool features on this car.im very excited about it.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2006, 07:23 PM   #19721
Tech Champion
 
rayhuang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Posts: 6,511
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rayhuang
Default

Jason-I think I love you!! I cannot wait to see those parts!!
rayhuang is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2006, 11:02 PM   #19722
Tech Elite
 
nf_ekt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: 22 Acacia Avenue
Posts: 4,631
Trader Rating: 113 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i think he means the damper discs and damper tubes.if so,they do the same thing.they control your side dampening of the pod when it flexes side to side.the tubes are a better idea in theory because they will not effect your front dampening.i have tried them both and personally like the discs better.some like tubes better.i would try them both and see what works better for you.its kinda like the link car vs the Tbar,it will come down to you.if one was better for everyone,there would only be one style.nf_etk finds the same that i find,the T bar cars are more aggressive than link cars.i drove a hara hammer(marcos j)and the car felt good but didnt fit my driving style.i was about 3 tenths off my own pace per lap on average.im sure i could have adapted to it and got faster.it seemed to have a lazy feel to it for me.there are some setup changes i could have made to make it more aggressive but,it was not my car to change.i have always liked the feel of a t plate car.others feel the same about link cars.
Yeah man very good description of the two. I know you have been wheeling the 12th scale cars for a long time so I can definantly see why you like the T-bar. The problem I had with it is that still being new to 12th it seemed every time I wrecked my 12l4 (at least 1 out of every 7 laps) it would be tweeked for a bit then settle back in. For me I only say the link car is working better because it seems with the less agressive handling I am wrecking less, and when I do the car feels the same once I get going again. Once I get some more time under my belt I want to go back to my 12l4 (but the chassis is broke so maybe a good candidate for the bmi conversion) and see how hard I can push it.

12th scale rocks. It's a good community because I seldom hear racers of one brand bagging on another car.... less ford vs. chevy going on.

BTW... do you sell a direct replacement chassis for the l4? not a full conversion just the chassis itself. If I have to pay 45 bux I'd rather get something better if possible!
__________________
Up the Irons \m/

Powered by Hotwings, Rolling Rock, and the urge to race toy cars...
nf_ekt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2006, 11:05 PM   #19723
Tech Elite
 
nf_ekt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: 22 Acacia Avenue
Posts: 4,631
Trader Rating: 113 (100%+)
Default

As for shells- anybody find good results for the CEFX shell on pavement? If it looks good I'll run it (any shell) but was curious to what anybody out there has found.
__________________
Up the Irons \m/

Powered by Hotwings, Rolling Rock, and the urge to race toy cars...
nf_ekt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2006, 01:47 AM   #19724
Moderator
 
Pro ten Holland's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Druten/Holland (Europe)
Posts: 1,658
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RAL
Where does the Parma Zytec fit in the body selection. They are cool in a retro TOJ kind of way. How does the DF compare to the Protoform Speed 12 and Parma Speed bodies?? Is it ok for outdoor asphalt??
The Zytec has more overall downforce. Should be good for outdoor asphalt.
__________________
http://www.rc-lemans.de/
Pro ten Holland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2006, 04:19 AM   #19725
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
Yeah man very good description of the two. I know you have been wheeling the 12th scale cars for a long time so I can definantly see why you like the T-bar. The problem I had with it is that still being new to 12th it seemed every time I wrecked my 12l4 (at least 1 out of every 7 laps) it would be tweeked for a bit then settle back in. For me I only say the link car is working better because it seems with the less agressive handling I am wrecking less, and when I do the car feels the same once I get going again. Once I get some more time under my belt I want to go back to my 12l4 (but the chassis is broke so maybe a good candidate for the bmi conversion) and see how hard I can push it.

12th scale rocks. It's a good community because I seldom hear racers of one brand bagging on another car.... less ford vs. chevy going on.

BTW... do you sell a direct replacement chassis for the l4? not a full conversion just the chassis itself. If I have to pay 45 bux I'd rather get something better if possible!

hey bro,

i dont have a direct replacement but i do have my stock chassis from when i bought my 12L4.i actually have all the c/f components and they are all brand new still.you can have em if you like.let me know when you will be racing my way again and i will bring it with me.i will also throw a setup on the car for you.i have alot more time to do it at the track now that i found my seyup that i like for my car.i agree bro.1/12th rocks.
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:43 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0