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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-01-2006, 10:10 PM   #19696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theisgroup
i should have my db12 by then carlos. I will let you take a look at the back end. most likely all weekend.
Yang, you had me at the TSC, but you are now going to be on my track. So you might want to be ready to get Hammered on Sat., and watch out for me going hyperspace with the Hyperform 12 on Sun. Hope to see you guys before then.
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Old 08-01-2006, 10:18 PM   #19697
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we are trying to make a trip down there in a couple of weekends.
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Old 08-01-2006, 10:36 PM   #19698
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Let me or P2 know that way we can have enough guys run and if you plan on running touring as well. Touring is having low turnouts, but has reamin steady with a minimal needed to race.
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Old 08-01-2006, 10:46 PM   #19699
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If Yang doesn't mind me tagging along and doesn't mind helping me get my 1/12th in order I will do my best to come down with him. Ill bring my Corally to just in case.
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Old 08-02-2006, 12:01 AM   #19700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
protc3- I know this maybe abit premature, but I was wondering what the estimated cost would be on the full kit? I am looking to add to my 12th scale collection that I have.

Also to any of the 12th scale gurus that have the AH12 (Hara Hammer) what would be a geral setup on the the car for stock? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm sure if you do a bit of searching you will find a hara set-up on line. A car like the hammer should be a easy to drive,consistent machine. I have seen them run and I know they can deliver, It is less agressive than some but you can dial the car in with agressive radio settings and a stiff rear spring. A good choice on a variety of surfaces .
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Old 08-02-2006, 12:10 AM   #19701
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What is the main difference other than looks between a standard round disk thingy suspension like the 12L4's and the side tube like the CRC 3.2/SP12X?
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Old 08-02-2006, 12:18 AM   #19702
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is there any difference from changin to from the stock chassis, to a thicker one on a crc3.2r?

thanxs
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Old 08-02-2006, 12:40 AM   #19703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danjoy25
What is the main difference other than looks between a standard round disk thingy suspension like the 12L4's and the side tube like the CRC 3.2/SP12X?
A 12l4 will have a T-bar and a CRC 3.2 will have a link set-up with side springs. A 12l4 can deliver a very agressive ride a link car will seam less agressive, but very easy to run consistant. I've owned both it's hard to describe what is different other than to say a L4 has a t-bar and a link car has a pivot ball with side springs and links to control movement of the pod. I ike my CRC because it doesn't tweek after a crash very easily, it's a carpet knife. A car like the BMI will set very fast laps if it set-up correct, I have seen it go in the right hands (protc3) and man was it good. Any 12th is good just drive smooth and you can run fast-- I'm addicted to it after running TC for so long.
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Old 08-02-2006, 04:21 AM   #19704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
A 12l4 will have a T-bar and a CRC 3.2 will have a link set-up with side springs. A 12l4 can deliver a very agressive ride a link car will seam less agressive, but very easy to run consistant. I've owned both it's hard to describe what is different other than to say a L4 has a t-bar and a link car has a pivot ball with side springs and links to control movement of the pod. I ike my CRC because it doesn't tweek after a crash very easily, it's a carpet knife. A car like the BMI will set very fast laps if it set-up correct, I have seen it go in the right hands (protc3) and man was it good. Any 12th is good just drive smooth and you can run fast-- I'm addicted to it after running TC for so long.
i think he means the damper discs and damper tubes.if so,they do the same thing.they control your side dampening of the pod when it flexes side to side.the tubes are a better idea in theory because they will not effect your front dampening.i have tried them both and personally like the discs better.some like tubes better.i would try them both and see what works better for you.its kinda like the link car vs the Tbar,it will come down to you.if one was better for everyone,there would only be one style.nf_etk finds the same that i find,the T bar cars are more aggressive than link cars.i drove a hara hammer(marcos j)and the car felt good but didnt fit my driving style.i was about 3 tenths off my own pace per lap on average.im sure i could have adapted to it and got faster.it seemed to have a lazy feel to it for me.there are some setup changes i could have made to make it more aggressive but,it was not my car to change.i have always liked the feel of a t plate car.others feel the same about link cars.
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Old 08-02-2006, 04:22 AM   #19705
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when are you coming out again bro,i gotta let you try the proto.this thing is sick fast.
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Old 08-02-2006, 09:50 AM   #19706
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hi all just got some trc front tyres for my L3 but they seem to be a little different to the tyres i replaced.
the old ones have little ridges in the centre hole that sets the position of the bearings but the new ones do not have this, only a clean hole through the middle.
do i need to run some sort of spacer between the bearings or are thes rime the incorect ones for this car
the axles are the offset ones with c-clip attachment for the rim.
any insights would be appreciated
cheers
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Old 08-02-2006, 10:24 AM   #19707
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You will need to use flanged bearings than just standard bearings. The flange bearings help with keeping the wheel from coming off when entering a high speed sweeper or a corner.
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Old 08-02-2006, 10:26 AM   #19708
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the older style TRC wheels were designed for the use of flanged bearings similar to parmas.the newer style take non flanged bearings and have the step on the inside of the bore.the new style wheels are the same offset as jacos,the older rims are a more narrow offset in the rear and i think wider in the front.
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Old 08-02-2006, 10:44 AM   #19709
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ok that makes sense, at least i can use these tyres
the tyre box has TRC2k4 on the front and TM1231 part number on top with 2004 trinity products inc. bottom rear of the box so i assume that they are the old type of rim design
oh well, looks like i've got some more shopping to do to find some of those bearings hope my lhs has 4 of them in stock as the importer isnt getting the new gear for another week or 2.
at least its not a huge problem, it'll pay to have all these bits and pieces for the various styles of rims in the spares kit
thanks for the replies guys,
cheers
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Old 08-02-2006, 10:56 AM   #19710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAL
MAN!!! Jim you're right...what a planning "oops" ok well, I saw it and thought I'd try to get us 12r's together for it.
OOPS is right! Any other weekend and we'd be THERE

thanks for the nice review of the OD12...Jim made it look good at the Central Coast race.

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