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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-25-2002, 04:29 PM   #1951
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Both cars run good on asphalt. I got a carpet knife because I hate saddle packs and T plates. I like to be able to switch the side springs instead of the T plate. You can find good deals on both cars here on the Buy/Sell forum and on e-bay.
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Old 11-25-2002, 05:31 PM   #1952
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I went ahead and got the carpet knife for exactly the reasons you mentioned. I also went ahead and just got it new so I can build it myself and KNOW it was put together right.

Anyhoo, how is breaking stuff on this car? It happen a lot? I'm a pretty clean driver, but the track the car is going to be run on has pretty massive dots. Launching off one might cause some serious damage, especially to a little 12th scale. Any of you having problems with parts breaking? Should I go ahead and order some spare parts? If so, which ones? Thanks.
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Old 11-25-2002, 05:36 PM   #1953
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newracer, did you notice that CRC just doesn't transition well in comparison to the L3? Last year I started with a CRC then 2 races later I just can't keep up, it's too heavy, it doesn't transition well. Then I switched to an L3 and it was 5X better car. Now, I'm driving a YRX-12, an even better car than an L3.
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Old 11-25-2002, 05:44 PM   #1954
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Good luck to all going to Cleveland...another year i'll have to wait.......dangitall......
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Old 11-25-2002, 05:48 PM   #1955
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My carpet knife turns very well, but I want more on throttle steering. I love the idea of not having to tape in my batteries and I don't like t-plates. The parts that I would get first of all is a front bumper to protect the front end from any damage and some extra springs for the front end, tweek and center shock.
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Old 11-25-2002, 06:18 PM   #1956
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Good luck to all the guys going to Cleveland wish I could have made it this year but with the ROAR and NORRCA carpet nationals in my back yard I dont feel so bad missing the race this year.

Tigger I want daily updates as to whos fast from our local boys.

Good luck guys
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Old 11-25-2002, 11:15 PM   #1957
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Drifter- i would stick with the original chassis or get the yokomo chassis plate which i hear they sell a regular black graphite one seperately if you don't want the shiny blue graphite one for a lower price, check the yokomo 12th scale thread on it.

RC Nitro- thanks, no wife so no kids yet but within a couple of years that will probably change and Cleveland will have to be re-evaluated, hecky, my family has really been on me to stay home with my sister offering to pay for my cancellation! i've been blessed with a great family. Regarding the tire wear, greens wear fast so i would use grays in the rear which wear twice as long at least. If you start your rears at 1.98" and run them down to 1.83" anticipate 14-25 runs in mod and 1/3 more for stock(?). The lower the grip the more the tires slide and the more they wear it seems where as better grip seems to make them last forever (not really but you get the point, LOL!). Purple fronts from 1.78" down to 1.70" should last about the same as the rears. You can run the tires straight from the package for club racing and adjust ride height accordingly but for more serious racing on high bite tracks you would want them to be smaller (less weight and a little less grip) say in the range of 1.94-1.90" rears and 1.74-1.72" fronts depending on your budget.

Kev- you're asking the guy who will be the most isolated member of our local racers to keep up with what THEY are all doing??? LOL!!! Those guys are planning to hide from me all weekend LOL, LOL!!!!! (or is it the other way around ). I am taking my laptop so maybe a report on thursday night, friday night, and sat. night may come across, i'll have to see about my isp in that area otherwise Dave Sr. or Jughead will have to call you with the info.

Juch's- did you know that they will have that track near the hotel open for practice Wed until 10pm? hmmmmmm. We should get there by 3:30 their time. What say ye????

Happy ThanksGiving All. Leave in a 1.4 days.
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Old 11-26-2002, 04:53 AM   #1958
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darnould: Thanks and good luck! Thanks for the tire info, the lower grip=more wear makes sense.

Happy Thaksgiving all!
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Old 11-26-2002, 09:54 AM   #1959
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Thanks GrizzBob!
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Old 11-26-2002, 10:26 AM   #1960
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aeon Racer
Anyhoo, how is breaking stuff on this car? It happen a lot? I'm a pretty clean driver, but the track the car is going to be run on has pretty massive dots. Launching off one might cause some serious damage, especially to a little 12th scale. Any of you having problems with parts breaking? Should I go ahead and order some spare parts? If so, which ones? Thanks.
I haven't broken anything on my car yet and have had some pretty hard hits. I did pull a bumper screw through the chassis. The screws it comes with have small heads, replace them with ones that have a fuller head to prevent it. The front bumper really helps protect the front end. The only spare parts I have are ones that can wear out like side links, ball ends, center pivot, etc.


Quote:
Originally posted by litespeed-dom
newracer, did you notice that CRC just doesn't transition well in comparison to the L3? Last year I started with a CRC then 2 races later I just can't keep up, it's too heavy, it doesn't transition well. Then I switched to an L3 and it was 5X better car. Now, I'm driving a YRX-12, an even better car than an L3.
The CRC is the only 1/12th I have driven and only on asphalt so far. The only issue I have right now is a high speed push in the middle of a turn. Which I think a stiffer side spring might cure but I can't try it 'cause there is no more outdoor racing till May. 1/12th's don't like the snow!!!

I am going to try and make it to the local carpet track this weekend for the first time with my new Bloody Knife.
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Old 11-26-2002, 12:39 PM   #1961
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Quote:
Originally posted by TC racer
My carpet knife turns very well, but I want more on throttle steering. I love the idea of not having to tape in my batteries and I don't like t-plates. The parts that I would get first of all is a front bumper to protect the front end from any damage and some extra springs for the front end, tweek and center shock.
hey dave glad to hear your doing good with the car! to get a little more on power steering try adding a little more caster or harder side pod springs i think i sent you some with the car. not sure i just packed everything i had for it and shipped it. well good luck keep me posted on how you do with it that car served me well
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Old 11-26-2002, 12:46 PM   #1962
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Thanks mike I will try that out next Sunday. How is the corally car working for you? I'm sure it's very different in how is handles on the track compared to a carpet kinfe.
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Old 11-27-2002, 09:31 PM   #1963
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Are extended shank pinions still requried in the current Corally 12 scale cars?
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Old 11-28-2002, 06:57 AM   #1964
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I forgot to mention that something weird happened to my ESC last sunday. It was running fine before I truned to early and hit the wall. When all of a sudden the Esc resart it self. I don't know what happened.I checked every thing! I first I thought I had hung a brush but they checked out fine. Nothing looked bad. When one of the guys I race with truned off my ESC and then turned it back on everything worked. I'm running a Novak GT7 with a Reedy MVP with putnam brushes blue on the neg and green on the pos. My gearing is 104 spur with a 26 or 27 pinion. My finial roll out is 1.40.
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Old 11-28-2002, 08:48 AM   #1965
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lowrance
Are extended shank pinions still requried in the current Corally 12 scale cars?
They are recommended, but not required.

I am running my SP12M with regular 48pitch pinions.
They are out at the very end of the motor shaft, but I have not had any come lose/fall off or 'wobble' yet. Just make sure it is snug.

However, I am seriously considering switching to 64pitch gearing, including purchasing all new long shank pinions.

Che
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