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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-29-2006, 05:03 AM   #19606
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usually any funky acceleration steering is caused by a front end that is not properly shimmed or the diff.check your tweak with the penny method by putting a penny on each front tire and slowly lift the front dead center of the front of the car.you want both to drop at the same time.i check my tweak with both a tweak station and this way to tweak the front and rear of the car.a tweak station only checks the springs or t plate,it doesnt tell you if your kingpin shimming is equal.if it is not properly set one front wheel will become light under acceleration.if this doesnt work,try rebuilding your diff with new balls,washer and bearings.
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Old 07-29-2006, 05:31 AM   #19607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinkrat99
Hi all,

I was having a lot of trouble with Torque Steer on Wed night. We run 19t on Ozite carpet.

I checked tweak on two different setup stations and made sure I was dead at 0. I also checked ride height and for free movement of the suspension on my Hara. HAs anyone tried adding tweak to offset Torque Steer? I would think under acceleration this might help but what about during normal racing in the infield? Would this not cause strange behavior in the turns?

Thanks
Which way is it torque steering?

Things to check:
- Check the front end and make sure it 0's out and is square
- Make sure the front springs are of even height and nothing is binding the movement. One good hit can significantly compress a front spring.
- Make sure the esc wires aren't binding movement
- Make sure all the screws are tight in the roll center housing
- Try checking tweak without the damper rods/puck connected and see if it's different when connected (although, I don't think you can do this with the hara car??)
- Make sure the clamping hub on the left side isn't slipping
- Check your tire sizes on each side of the car to make sure they are the same size (Rotate your tires each run)
- Make sure the front track is square
- Make sure the rear track is square
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Old 07-29-2006, 08:49 AM   #19608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinkrat99
Hi all,

I was having a lot of trouble with Torque Steer on Wed night. We run 19t on Ozite carpet.

I checked tweak on two different setup stations and made sure I was dead at 0. I also checked ride height and for free movement of the suspension on my Hara. HAs anyone tried adding tweak to offset Torque Steer? I would think under acceleration this might help but what about during normal racing in the infield? Would this not cause strange behavior in the turns?

Thanks
\
Beside what everyone has mentioned check for a seized bearing, and see if any hardware is dragging( loose screws).
Also make sure the axle nuts for the front wheels aren't too tight. Another thing to look at is make sure the left rear tire is'nt rubbing the pod, or screws that are to long rubbing the pod. If your running a t-plate car, check for a fatigued plate. Plus make sure you dont have a bent hinge pin up front, or castor block. Also check the chassis plate on a flat surface for tweak. These are things to check to along with everyone elses recommendations. Good Luck..


One more thing 12 scale by having an offset diff has a natural tendacy to torque steer. We set steering trim slightly off so while car is traveling it wont pull. A little counter trim helps!.
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Last edited by speedxl; 07-29-2006 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 07-29-2006, 04:24 PM   #19609
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hey adrian,
marcos ran his DB12 for the 1st time today at fast track.he was really pumped about how good it ran over his previous car.he ran is 3 star brushless for a bit after the race and said it was sick fast but still smoothe.
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Old 07-29-2006, 05:54 PM   #19610
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Thats cool. The 3 Star is a 6.5T so me and Marcos should have similar power. I am looking forward to running my BL system. Gearing is the main thing I will have to figure out.
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Old 07-29-2006, 06:19 PM   #19611
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marcos said he ran 35mm and the motor was cold afterwards.i would imagine a little taller than that.maybe 37-38mm possibly.its gonna be fun tommorow.
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Old 07-29-2006, 06:20 PM   #19612
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do you still want me to bring the 5800 motor?
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Old 07-29-2006, 06:22 PM   #19613
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im interested to see how my 10 turn runs.i have a feeling im gonna need to tie the front of my car to the back of yours and marcos down the straight.
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Old 07-29-2006, 06:28 PM   #19614
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just wanted to know if anybody has information on the big race in las vegas? if so can someone please let know thank you.
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Old 07-29-2006, 06:31 PM   #19615
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i believe it is sometime in september.what would you like to know?they have a thread on here for it that seems to always be pretty busy.im sure you can find a ton of info on that thread
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Old 07-29-2006, 06:35 PM   #19616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i believe it is sometime in september.what would you like to know?they have a thread on here for it that seems to always be pretty busy.im sure you can find a ton of info on that thread
what is the name of the thread? i'm thinking about going to the race so i need info on track and hotel stuff like that.
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Old 07-29-2006, 06:37 PM   #19617
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http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=101368
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Old 07-29-2006, 06:40 PM   #19618
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thanks for the info
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Old 07-29-2006, 06:42 PM   #19619
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no problem buddy
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Old 07-29-2006, 06:42 PM   #19620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
im interested to see how my 10 turn runs.i have a feeling im gonna need to tie the front of my car to the back of yours and marcos down the straight.
I think we are all going to be really close. Our first run will be really interesting. You are one up on me and Marcos because you know the perfect roll out for a 10T. You won't have to fool around with gearing. Marcos and I will be looking at your lap times so we can see if we are geared right.

I wonder if we all will make time...lol! My batts are pretty beat up.
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