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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-25-2006, 07:14 AM   #19531
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what is the best reciever pack for use with a 1/12th ? (and where to get it)

thanks in advance.
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Old 07-25-2006, 07:42 AM   #19532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black-knight
what is the best reciever pack for use with a 1/12th ? (and where to get it)

thanks in advance.
Reciver pac is generally used to supplly your electronics with 6vlts. It also helps in mod to gain a little extra runtme, maybe 10 sec's worth. Some speedos dont work well with less then 6 volts, newer speedos dont require it as they have been designed to run on less voltage. Even the new spektrum has been redesigned to work on lower voltage.

The only reason I would use a rec pack now adays would be for quicker steering response . Run time isnt an issue with 3800+ mah batteries.

You can go to www. Battlepack.com you'll need 5 2/3 aaa 150mah batteries. Call him he'll know what you need.
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Old 07-25-2006, 10:03 PM   #19533
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To all 12L4 owners,

Got a used rolling chassis and was thinking of what parts/spares I need to tune the car. Will run only on outdoor asphalt, so let me know what I need from the list below and if I missed any.

1) Symmetrical T-Bar 12L4 (What size?) (Spares/tuning)
2) Rear Axle Ride Height Adjustment TA4348-TA4351 (tuning)
3) Upper Suspension Mount TA4561 (Spares)
4) Lower Suspension Arms TA8419 (Spares)
5) Steering Block TA8421 (Spares)
6) Associated Springs = TA4113, 4114, 4116, 4117, 4118 & 4119 (tuning)

Thanks in advance
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Old 07-25-2006, 10:05 PM   #19534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danjoy25
To all 12L4 owners,

Got a used rolling chassis and was thinking of what parts/spares I need to tune the car. Will run only on outdoor asphalt, so let me know what I need from the list below and if I missed any.

1) Symmetrical T-Bar 12L4 (What size?) (Spares/tuning)
2) Rear Axle Ride Height Adjustment TA4348-TA4351 (tuning)
3) Upper Suspension Mount TA4561 (Spares)
4) Lower Suspension Arms TA8419 (Spares)
5) Steering Block TA8421 (Spares)
6) Associated Springs = TA4113, 4114, 4116, 4117, 4118 & 4119 (tuning)

Thanks in advance
t plate 0.063
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Old 07-25-2006, 10:14 PM   #19535
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You might consider investing in a set of the IRS rear ride height adjusters. I found that the AE adjusters bound up my rear axle quite a bit despite my best efforts to shave and free them up. The IRS adjusters were free from the git go. Plus the IRS set has a few more steps to adjust ride height. 10$ for 8 different heights if I am not mistaken.

#IRS1167

http://www.teamirsrc.com/podplates.html
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Old 07-25-2006, 10:39 PM   #19536
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the list sounds about right, but you might be overkill on the front springs... although i have never run a 12th on aasphalt, most of the setups i see only list a couple different springs.

although, they arent expensive, so not a big deal.

i agree with Andrew on the IRS adjusters... more adjustability, plus better precision...
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Old 07-25-2006, 10:55 PM   #19537
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I have all the springs and have never used the ones below 018. They are still new in their packets. I race on both carpet and ashfelt.
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Old 07-25-2006, 11:53 PM   #19538
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If you are running on asphalt, you may want to take a look into the Yokomo L4 chassis. May help some.
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Old 07-26-2006, 01:12 AM   #19539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatbear
I have all the springs and have never used the ones below 018. They are still new in their packets. I race on both carpet and ashfelt.
That's right. If your car is right .020 is pretty much the only spring to use. For extreme high bite maybe .022.
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Old 07-26-2006, 12:02 PM   #19540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danjoy25
To all 12L4 owners,

Got a used rolling chassis and was thinking of what parts/spares I need to tune the car. Will run only on outdoor asphalt, so let me know what I need from the list below and if I missed any.

1) Symmetrical T-Bar 12L4 (What size?) (Spares/tuning)
2) Rear Axle Ride Height Adjustment TA4348-TA4351 (tuning)
3) Upper Suspension Mount TA4561 (Spares)
4) Lower Suspension Arms TA8419 (Spares)
5) Steering Block TA8421 (Spares)
6) Associated Springs = TA4113, 4114, 4116, 4117, 4118 & 4119 (tuning)

Thanks in advance

Maybe on asphalt you dont need them, but I always use irs 4014 lowered front suspension arms so I can run small fronts. Then you can buy the CRC front arm shim kit to raise your ride height back up. The CRC are just easier to use due to their one piece design.

Also-on the t-bars-buy 5 packages at a time. Reason being they are all different thickness. I just bought 5 of the 0.063" and they were 0.061, 0.063, 0.064, 0.065 and 0.066". This gives you great tuning ability.

Also-some high bite asphalt tracks require the thick t-plates too (0.075") small tires and low ride heights (like SIR in Washington).

and yes-the irs axle (irs1167) adjusters are the greatest thing to happen to 12th since the Parma speed 8!!

And last, might i recommend the CRC Dura shock (4284 to 4286 depending on color). Its very smooth, easy to build and bleed and doesnt pull apart like the stock VCS shock can.
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:05 PM   #19541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Maybe on asphalt you dont need them, but I always use irs 4014 lowered front suspension arms so I can run small fronts. Then you can buy the CRC front arm shim kit to raise your ride height back up. The CRC are just easier to use due to their one piece design.

Also-on the t-bars-buy 5 packages at a time. Reason being they are all different thickness. I just bought 5 of the 0.063" and they were 0.061, 0.063, 0.064, 0.065 and 0.066". This gives you great tuning ability.

Also-some high bite asphalt tracks require the thick t-plates too (0.075") small tires and low ride heights (like SIR in Washington).

and yes-the irs axle (irs1167) adjusters are the greatest thing to happen to 12th since the Parma speed 8!!

And last, might i recommend the CRC Dura shock (4284 to 4286 depending on color). Its very smooth, easy to build and bleed and doesnt pull apart like the stock VCS shock can.

Actually Ray we use those outdoor's also, as for T-plates on very rare occasions if the track has med to high bite we'll use .075 thickness. But the track must be smooth!
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:11 PM   #19542
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what is a good starting setup for a 12L4 for high grip asphalt. the track is very fast and flowing, european style horsepower track. need info on body, tires and such as i am new to 12th scale but not onroad.
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Old 07-26-2006, 04:16 PM   #19543
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Thanks for all the reply guys. Just need to find out an online shop that sells 12l4 and IRS parts that can shipped overseas. I did find one but was quoting $30+ shipping for parts worth under $30
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Old 07-26-2006, 04:23 PM   #19544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danjoy25
Thanks for all the reply guys. Just need to find out an online shop that sells 12l4 and IRS parts that can shipped overseas. I did find one but was quoting $30+ shipping for parts worth under $30
Did you check with KT hobbies.....Kraig has a ton of things instock for 12th scale.
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Old 07-26-2006, 04:34 PM   #19545
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How would one go about figuring out everything he would need to get a 12L4 up and running, with the correct parts to have a kevin kane type L4.
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