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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-22-2006, 02:30 PM   #19456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
hector,

that steering setup would give you different ackerman settings for each wheel dont ya think?the car would have a different feel in each direction.
I dont know why it should, if does it will be minimal! I believe reducing EPA would correct this. Maybe have better balance left to right. Just think about it. I am going to try it, I just wanted to see if anyone else other then old schoolers like my self has tried it recently!
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Old 07-22-2006, 02:33 PM   #19457
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cool.your still a punk!!

let me know how it goes brutha
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Old 07-22-2006, 02:52 PM   #19458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest2000
hector...

corally used to have the center point steering but it was really sloppy just a piece of wire curled into a circle. I've never seen one other than that so I don't know how well it would work if done properly.

would it even be possible the way you are talking about? one would be a little further out than the other even in that case would it not?
The Corally center point steering has to be use with corally steering blocks together(that is, the car must have a corally front end), otherwise the ackerman will be wrong. It has a lot of play, that was done with purpose, to makes steering less sensitive near the center. I was assured by Oscar, the system works(who was still working for Corally back then, Corally SP12G2 was my first car)
Asso front end, sticks with normal two points steering.
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Old 07-22-2006, 03:00 PM   #19459
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thats what i figured.its funny,my first 1/12th was a corally sp12g.the steering linkage never changed.the slop in it didnt seem to really hurt the car being that back then nothing could touch that car on carpet.however,the standard setup on the L4 car seems to have very little slop to me and doesnt bind so i never tried fixing it because it seemed good to me.but hell to each his own.people trying something new has gotten these cars to where they are today
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Old 07-22-2006, 04:56 PM   #19460
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quote from corally manual

"Do not replace this steering system or remove the play at the centre pivot. The tolerances in the track rod eyelet's have been designed to aid straight line stability. Fitting 'play free' ball joints will change the geometry and make the car very difficult to drive- you have been warned!!!"

that steering system seems to work fine for me
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Old 07-22-2006, 05:00 PM   #19461
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i know,i wasnt saying it doesnt work.they have had it that way for a long time.a little play doesnt hurt.same in touring car.too much play sucks but the corallys seem to be fine.
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Old 07-22-2006, 06:06 PM   #19462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
people trying something new has gotten these cars to where they are today
AMEN ! DCR 1/12
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Old 07-22-2006, 07:39 PM   #19463
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Anyone see how Darkside deals with this issue on the 10th scale oval pan cars? It's a center-pivot bellcrank rack with a single trailing link arm to the servo. A nice alternative, but the larger cars have more room to do this with. Pretty slick idea, though.




I wonder if the zero-Ackerman/zero bumpsteer sliding rack that Custom Works designed many years ago for dirt oval could be developed in a 12th scale format? It's a flawless setup for 2wd dirt oval cars, no reason why something simple couldn't be adapted and designed for 12th, too.

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Old 07-22-2006, 07:52 PM   #19464
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Anybody know where I can get some CRC procuts cheaper than their own online shop? I have seen one of the Japan online shop selling them for around $13USD a pair but they are out of stock.
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Old 07-22-2006, 07:54 PM   #19465
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Stormer Hobbies carries them at about that price. Their stock goes in and out, but they had just about everything a couple of weeks ago when I placed my order.

When you run them, make sure to glue the sidewalls of the rears if you run anything close to a high bite surface. Otherwise, they split pretty easily (then chunk). Even the firm compound rears...
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Old 07-22-2006, 08:43 PM   #19466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Stormer Hobbies carries them at about that price. Their stock goes in and out, but they had just about everything a couple of weeks ago when I placed my order.

When you run them, make sure to glue the sidewalls of the rears if you run anything close to a high bite surface. Otherwise, they split pretty easily (then chunk). Even the firm compound rears...
I know people glue the outer sidewalls, but is it necessory to glue the inner too?
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Old 07-22-2006, 09:49 PM   #19467
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i run the jaco wraps and i have to glue the outer sidewalls.i dont do the inside because really the outside is only under the excesive side load.im sure the same applys for the crc ones.
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Old 07-23-2006, 07:00 AM   #19468
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I ran Jacos and TRC all of last season in stock and 19T and had never had to glue sidewalls ever (I don't like doing itI think it looks hack and it makes the tires behave erratically). I was surprised that after a single test session in stock (purple/grey), that the rears pulled themselves apart. After a re-glue, they were fine, but I wouldn't run those again without gluing them.
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Old 07-23-2006, 08:16 AM   #19469
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yeah,its only the TRC and JACO wraps that i have had this issue with.the standards i never had a problem.i never tried the new CRC tires so i cant say for them.from what your experience with them was,i would say they fall into the same catagory.
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Old 07-23-2006, 08:19 AM   #19470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
I ran Jacos and TRC all of last season in stock and 19T and had never had to glue sidewalls ever (I don't like doing itI think it looks hack and it makes the tires behave erratically). I was surprised that after a single test session in stock (purple/grey), that the rears pulled themselves apart. After a re-glue, they were fine, but I wouldn't run those again without gluing them.

Apex the car shouldnt be erratic ( inconsistant ). Now if you glue the whole side wall. You will loose traction.
This is a trick for running on high bite carpet, to make the car less prone to traction rolling. But at that point you only coat 1/2 to 3/4 of the sidewall.
You'll be giving up cornering traction.

Now your only supposed to put a small bead of glue at the seam. If you apply it neatly it wont be hack, you only need enough at seams! .
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