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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-21-2006, 04:13 AM   #19441
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you will get 0 bumpsteer when the steering turnbuckles are close to the same angle as the upper arms.
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Old 07-21-2006, 07:47 AM   #19442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
you will get 0 bumpsteer when the steering turnbuckles are close to the same angle as the upper arms.
should it be the same for both the horizontal and vertical angle's or just the horizontal?
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Old 07-21-2006, 08:19 AM   #19443
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ok hey im not that new to onroad i had 2 xxx-s graphite pluses before but im new to 1/12 scale cars. im looking into getting an oval car cause im gonna get into dirt and asphalt racing and i was looking at the RC12L3. just wondering if this is good for me and if anybody new what i should get like battery packs wise and a good motor for it. i dont have a lot of money right now so if anyone has like an extra one they could sell to me for cheap LMK to thanks.

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Old 07-21-2006, 08:47 AM   #19444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbonium
what are the handling effects of the offset front axles, ala Yokomo, compared to the standard inline set?
I'm just getting back into 1/12 scale, after almost 20 years .

I too am curious about the handling differences between offset and inline front axles.
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Old 07-21-2006, 09:08 AM   #19445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed-e
I'm just getting back into 1/12 scale, after almost 20 years .

I too am curious about the handling differences between offset and inline front axles.
Offset: standard for any pancar but oval
Inline: huge increase of steering response. Normally too much for 12th scale. Car becomes really twitchy. Sometimes used at 10th scale roadcoarse pancar.
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Old 07-21-2006, 09:22 AM   #19446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REVO MAN
ok hey im not that new to onroad i had 2 xxx-s graphite pluses before but im new to 1/12 scale cars. im looking into getting an oval car cause im gonna get into dirt and asphalt racing and i was looking at the RC12L3. just wondering if this is good for me and if anybody new what i should get like battery packs wise and a good motor for it. i dont have a lot of money right now so if anyone has like an extra one they could sell to me for cheap LMK to thanks.

Kory
If you are thinking about 1/12th oval racing, take a look at this conversion kit.

http://www.jphracing.com/1_12_Scale_..._Mini_Mav_.cfm
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Old 07-21-2006, 09:39 AM   #19447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REVO MAN
ok hey im not that new to onroad i had 2 xxx-s graphite pluses before but im new to 1/12 scale cars. im looking into getting an oval car cause im gonna get into dirt and asphalt racing and i was looking at the RC12L3. just wondering if this is good for me and if anybody new what i should get like battery packs wise and a good motor for it. i dont have a lot of money right now so if anyone has like an extra one they could sell to me for cheap LMK to thanks.

Kory
Contact Doug Powell At PRC, theres work being done right now to develope a new oval car. Contact him at Quad12@comcast.net he also will perform custom work at the customers request.

Sorry there isnt a pic at the moment but it will be offered as a replacement/conversion kit for the 12l3/4 based kits.
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Old 07-21-2006, 10:00 AM   #19448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex
should it be the same for both the horizontal and vertical angle's or just the horizontal?

It is most important to have the steering linkage at the same horizontal plane as the suspension (or at least the suspension that moves and can alter the path of the steering hubs). Ideally, you want the hub, steering and suspension all moving in the same plane to reduce or remove any steering alignment change through the suspension movement.

The angle you see from the top should be as straight as you can get it to reduce the Ackerman that is created by altering the path of the steering links. If you want more Ackerman, you can lean out the angles of your steering links front to back (viewed from the top). Ackerman change can be used as a tuning aid, and I feel most people overlook this setting in a 12th scale because it is so hard to measure. With the servo saver bellcranks we use, though, it may be just one of those things we have to live with until someone develops a better steering linkage setup for pan cars.
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Old 07-21-2006, 10:37 AM   #19449
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ok sure will thanks.

Kory
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Old 07-22-2006, 05:31 AM   #19450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
It is most important to have the steering linkage at the same horizontal plane as the suspension (or at least the suspension that moves and can alter the path of the steering hubs). Ideally, you want the hub, steering and suspension all moving in the same plane to reduce or remove any steering alignment change through the suspension movement.

The angle you see from the top should be as straight as you can get it to reduce the Ackerman that is created by altering the path of the steering links. If you want more Ackerman, you can lean out the angles of your steering links front to back (viewed from the top). Ackerman change can be used as a tuning aid, and I feel most people overlook this setting in a 12th scale because it is so hard to measure. With the servo saver bellcranks we use, though, it may be just one of those things we have to live with until someone develops a better steering linkage setup for pan cars.
Sometimes I wonder about mounting the tie rods with captured ends at the servo savor using one screw. Making the steering link work equal side to side. I saw it years ago on someones car and never tried it. Any of you guys try this. I like to hear if Ray H. or even Adrian tried this he tries everything!
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Old 07-22-2006, 08:04 AM   #19451
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I'm wondering if any of you 1/12th gurus were racing in the late 80s/early 90s? I am doing a restoration on the original Trinity Revolver 12, and I'm searching for bodies for the project. Can any of you guys recall what the body of choice was right after the TOJ died? I have this fuzzy blank period in my memory, for some reason.

Was it the Associated Nissan GTP? Was there something else before the P35 or the early Protoform Intrepid GTP?


Did any of you ever run the Revolver? I had one for a little while after I tired of the early Corally, but I don't recall the shock being so short that it didn't reach the pod in the fully extended position.

Anyone out there with a memory better than mine?
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Old 07-22-2006, 09:40 AM   #19452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
I'm wondering if any of you 1/12th gurus were racing in the late 80s/early 90s? I am doing a restoration on the original Trinity Revolver 12, and I'm searching for bodies for the project. Can any of you guys recall what the body of choice was right after the TOJ died? I have this fuzzy blank period in my memory, for some reason.

Was it the Associated Nissan GTP? Was there something else before the P35 or the early Protoform Intrepid GTP?


Did any of you ever run the Revolver? I had one for a little while after I tired of the early Corally, but I don't recall the shock being so short that it didn't reach the pod in the fully extended position.

Anyone out there with a memory better than mine?

Mcallister still has a couple bodies , the notables were the jaguar, spice fiero, corvette from associated (the one onthe box cover), brm lola's, andy's mercedez sauber, parma arundal, osceola, mazda gtp by parma pse, and the ford probe . The Nissan p35 was mid 90's. There are others I just cant remember the manufacture they correspond with.
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Old 07-22-2006, 10:20 AM   #19453
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hector...

corally used to have the center point steering but it was really sloppy just a piece of wire curled into a circle. I've never seen one other than that so I don't know how well it would work if done properly.

would it even be possible the way you are talking about? one would be a little further out than the other even in that case would it not?
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Old 07-22-2006, 12:10 PM   #19454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest2000
hector...

corally used to have the center point steering but it was really sloppy just a piece of wire curled into a circle. I've never seen one other than that so I don't know how well it would work if done properly.

would it even be possible the way you are talking about? one would be a little further out than the other even in that case would it not?
Whats up Skeen havent chatted in awhile.

Skeem back in the late 80's and early 90's There was a car called the Lucas Aggitator! Gary Owens the guy from associated had one. That car had the steering set up like that and he said the steering was even from side to side.
It didn't have the corraly set up, it did have if I am not mistaken Dubro captured ends. I remember it having 0 slopp! Even though one is spaced out further you can compensate with Epa. I think I am going to try it. I just wanted to check if anyone else has!

How the Business going? I am going have to call ya and order some stuff! Hey quick question you been doing any oval racing?
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Old 07-22-2006, 02:22 PM   #19455
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hector,

that steering setup would give you different ackerman settings for each wheel dont ya think?the car would have a different feel in each direction.
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