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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-19-2006, 12:01 PM   #19426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed Demon
Guys..

How do we pu the AMB transponder in 1/12 car??? I am talking about the AMB conventional transponder. Not the personal transponder. Any pictures??

Also a quick and easy way adding to Ray's methods is also making a hole with a body reamer and mount the transponder anywhere its fits inside the body .staying as close to the bodies center line not through tweak off.

One more thing using the above method. If your club allows, you can stick it between the front suspension arms if you dont use a foam bumber!
It will help keep your cg low.!
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:47 PM   #19427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I doubt he will be able to get the weekend off, but I will ask him. Maybe the Ground Pounder boys? Steve will ask. How about Bill...he better start running 1/12th again soon or he'll stink the place up at Vegas. yeah thas right, I'm talkin bout you CMUHMWHNSNSB Bill!
Funny, I didn't see any evidence of liquor around your work bench.

I am waiting for the indoor season because I have more faith in my Rev 4; AND, someone has to finish last at Vegas...

CMUHMWHNSNSB Bill
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Old 07-19-2006, 09:41 PM   #19428
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Thanks for the info guys... I'll test the car today and if all goes well, I will be racing this weekend.
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Old 07-19-2006, 10:10 PM   #19429
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I am still new to 1/12 and am working on figuring it all out. I just inherited a few lightly used sets of tires and need to get them matched up on my truer. I am running a lowered CRC pod and the IRS front arms on an otherwise stock 12L4. Here are the diameters of the tires I have. Any suggestions on how to pair them up and what diameter to true them down to? I assume I want to pair all the largest tires up to get the most life out of them, but do I want to run any difference between front and rear?

Puple Fronts
1.720
1.726
1.717
1.917

Pink Rears
1.732
1.770
1.771
1.795
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Old 07-20-2006, 12:52 AM   #19430
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hey evryone im looking for a good setup for stock indoor carpet at med bite and it would be for a L4 does anyone have a setup i could use or try.
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Old 07-20-2006, 01:15 AM   #19431
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http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html
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Old 07-20-2006, 01:41 AM   #19432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartarse88
There is an active 12th area at www.rcracechat.com, a UK based forum

Cheers for that mate , i'll check it out .
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Old 07-20-2006, 06:33 AM   #19433
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Is there any advantage to laying the servo flat to having it angled up, the worlds pics, its like half and half, the flat idea seems much better? Any IDEAS???
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Old 07-20-2006, 06:54 AM   #19434
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THis has probably been answered before but I couldnt find an answer....

Can someone explain the handling differences between thin vs. thick dampening fluid in the tubes?

Thanks.
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Old 07-20-2006, 07:03 AM   #19435
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ICEMAN - You will just have to try both and see what you like. I prefer my servo angled on carpet and on asphalt. Some guys run angled on asphalt and flat on carpet and some run flat everywhere.

If you run your servo flat you will need to buy some long offset ball studs for your steering spindles to correct the bump steer. To check for bump steer press the front of your chassis down. If you see you front wheel's toe in increase you need to move the pivot balls on the servo saver closer to the servo output shaft, raise the pivot balls on the spindles or both.

The goal is very little toe change on suspension compression or none at all. Most guys dont get this right and end up with extreme bump toe and wacky handling cars.

If you run your servo angled you dont have to do any of this. The AE dynamic strut front end is designed around an angled servo and will have zero bump toe if built to the instructions.
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Old 07-20-2006, 08:26 AM   #19436
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Default Link to Orr's 1:12 2006 IFMAR Worlds Setup

FYI...

Link to Orr's 1:12 2006 IFMAR Worlds Setup
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Old 07-20-2006, 03:54 PM   #19437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jolly roger
THis has probably been answered before but I couldnt find an answer....

Can someone explain the handling differences between thin vs. thick dampening fluid in the tubes?

Thanks.
thicker lube in the tubes will increase your front traction.i generally try to set my car up by generating as much front traction as i can through setup with minimal rear dampening. i mostly run asphalt and when i cant get enough front bite,the car will double steer on power and be very edgy.by using oil in tubes or on washers will slow the reaction time of the T plate or side springs(depending on the car) enabling the front end to stay planted and not unload.the trick is to try to stick the front as much as possible and the car will be smoothe and react very quickly with minimal tire wear.


hey adrian,check it out bro.test and tune time brutha.yours will be there tommorow.
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Old 07-20-2006, 10:51 PM   #19438
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had a quick question....

what are the handling effects of the offset front axles, ala Yokomo, compared to the standard inline set? i have not tried them back-to-back, so i wasnt sure....
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Old 07-20-2006, 11:40 PM   #19439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
thicker lube in the tubes will increase your front traction.i generally try to set my car up by generating as much front traction as i can through setup with minimal rear dampening. i mostly run asphalt and when i cant get enough front bite,the car will double steer on power and be very edgy.by using oil in tubes or on washers will slow the reaction time of the T plate or side springs(depending on the car) enabling the front end to stay planted and not unload.the trick is to try to stick the front as much as possible and the car will be smoothe and react very quickly with minimal tire wear.


hey adrian,check it out bro.test and tune time brutha.yours will be there tommorow.
Jason,

The new DB12 Looks awesome.....I cant wait to acquire one of the new kit's!!

Keep up the great work...and keep us posted on the progression of the new Kit.

Alex
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Old 07-21-2006, 01:05 AM   #19440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
ICEMAN - You will just have to try both and see what you like. I prefer my servo angled on carpet and on asphalt. Some guys run angled on asphalt and flat on carpet and some run flat everywhere.

If you run your servo flat you will need to buy some long offset ball studs for your steering spindles to correct the bump steer. To check for bump steer press the front of your chassis down. If you see you front wheel's toe in increase you need to move the pivot balls on the servo saver closer to the servo output shaft, raise the pivot balls on the spindles or both.

The goal is very little toe change on suspension compression or none at all. Most guys dont get this right and end up with extreme bump toe and wacky handling cars.

If you run your servo angled you dont have to do any of this. The AE dynamic strut front end is designed around an angled servo and will have zero bump toe if built to the instructions.
Thanks for this Adrian; I forgot about this when this was brought up before and this sheds some light. I run the Slapmaster MS2.3 and when I built the car I guess I just got lucky 'cause I built the servo links so they are parallel to the ground and get zero bumpsteer...
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