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Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 07-18-2006, 02:35 PM   #19411
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Are brushless faster than stock? How about all the wires
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Old 07-18-2006, 02:43 PM   #19412
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Originally Posted by whynot
Are brushless faster than stock? How about all the wires
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Old 07-18-2006, 02:45 PM   #19413
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brushless motors seem to have more punch than its brushed equivelent but the brushed seem to eek it out on top speed when it is built right.brushless is cool because they are always fast and there is no voodoo behind it.it is just fast.the down side to brushless is that they are not as easy to drive as a brushed motor.i still run my 5800 and 4.5 brushless motor in my sedan because of lack of maintanence.i usually run better lap times with a brushed motor though.it could be just me though.
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:30 PM   #19414
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Originally Posted by RAL
Hey you bay area guys!!! Whoever called Fastlaps it worked, they're going to spray for the upcoming two day race because we want your crew to come down!!!! SWEET!!!
OK, OD and JRRC. Looks like we will be going to the Central Coast Summer Race Daze !! I will send in my registration tomorrow. OD and JRRC, who else can we get to go down with us?
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Old 07-18-2006, 06:02 PM   #19415
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Originally Posted by whynot
Hey Ray does anyone use brushless in 12 scales at the gate. It seems like it would be nice to not have to worry about turning the comm. but can they compete with the stock class. Or is there class for brushless.Mikey and I arent racing gas anymore just about have it all sold. we are thinking of just racing 12 scales ans I was considering using a brushless system.
Mike-its too fast to compete with stock cars-you'll blow there doors off.

Realize when you build a brushless 12th scale-its critical that the pods movment not be affected by all the wires going to the motor and it is no small task. if you dont get it perfect and keep it perfect-your car will forever run tweaked.

Also-12th motor maintenance is not a big deal-even against all the hotshoes at the Gate I rarely rebuilt my motor more than once during a race day. Usuualy for the third round and then I'd leave the motor in till i gt to the next race days third qualifier, etc.
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Old 07-18-2006, 08:20 PM   #19416
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Originally Posted by CarlosG.
A couple of guys here in San Antonio are using video proccessor heatsinks that come in a pack that cost $10. The pack comes with a 2 heatsinks and one fits the LRP Sphere just right. It even sits lower that the stock heatsink that come with the esc. The whole pack also comes with a fan surrounded in a aluminum case, some heat transfer tape and the paste. When I get a chance to tonight I will post a pic of it.
What took you so long! Here is a pic of mine, got it for $5 at the Goodwill computer store. Fits the LRPs like a glove and does a great job! No thermal shutdowns for me, ambient temps here are between 90-100*F. ESC temp is 188*F after 8 mins. 3 star temp is 170*.
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TopRacingUSA | Team EPIC | Thunder Power | OD Racing
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Old 07-18-2006, 08:52 PM   #19417
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P2, I don't have a digital camera that I can just download to the computer. I have to use my cell phone.
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Old 07-18-2006, 08:52 PM   #19418
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Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Don't know if anyone has run the CRC Pro Cut wheels & tires yet,

yes... they rule! Ready to run out of the box. Better wear and quicker lap times. Very pleased with them. From some of the pictures on the web, it looked like half the field was using them at the Worlds...
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Old 07-18-2006, 08:58 PM   #19419
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When Lufaso won the Asphalt Nats in 2005 he ran a regular Sphere (not the Comp) with no heat sink at all. You wont need it in 4 cell.
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:28 PM   #19420
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Originally Posted by Crashby
OK, OD and JRRC. Looks like we will be going to the Central Coast Summer Race Daze !! I will send in my registration tomorrow. OD and JRRC, who else can we get to go down with us?

Crimson Chicken
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Old 07-18-2006, 10:50 PM   #19421
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Originally Posted by jrrc
Crimson Chicken
I doubt he will be able to get the weekend off, but I will ask him. Maybe the Ground Pounder boys? Steve will ask. How about Bill...he better start running 1/12th again soon or he'll stink the place up at Vegas. yeah thas right, I'm talkin bout you CMUHMWHNSNSB Bill!
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
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Old 07-19-2006, 04:17 AM   #19422
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Guys , could you give me some links to other 1/12 forums.

I remember someone posting about them maybe over a year ago , tried the search but go no results
I remeber one was something like one12.com but tried that and it didn't work.

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Old 07-19-2006, 05:14 AM   #19423
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There is an active 12th area at www.rcracechat.com, a UK based forum
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:56 AM   #19424
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How do we pu the AMB transponder in 1/12 car??? I am talking about the AMB conventional transponder. Not the personal transponder. Any pictures??
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Old 07-19-2006, 09:01 AM   #19425
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Originally Posted by Speed Demon

How do we pu the AMB transponder in 1/12 car??? I am talking about the AMB conventional transponder. Not the personal transponder. Any pictures??
No pictures, but what I did and many others was make a Transponder mount (or use Buds) out of kydex and attach that to the top of the servo and mount the Transponder off to one side. Another method was to take lexan and make a box like device just barely larger than the trasnponder and mount that directly to the chassis.

We sometimes had to turn our antennae mounts sideways to allow us room to put the receiver in the middle behind the servo so that there was room for the trasnponder on the right side.
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