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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-14-2006, 11:56 PM   #19336
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Yes I am ODPURPS!!!!! And the traction isn't that great...we're running green rears with purple fronts (Paragon F&R). Some people are even running .24 springs in front to calm the cars down. Very flowing high speed strack with switchbacks. Any ideas for traction??
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Old 07-15-2006, 02:42 AM   #19337
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAL
Yes I am ODPURPS!!!!! And the traction isn't that great...we're running green rears with purple fronts (Paragon F&R). Some people are even running .24 springs in front to calm the cars down. Very flowing high speed strack with switchbacks. Any ideas for traction??
The sealed surface at SoCal is similar to the one of our local tracks here in Ripon. It's weird that even though the track is sticky enough to pull your shoe off when you walk on it, the bite for 1/12th at Ripon is not very good. While greens or aquas worked well for stock last year, 19t doesn't seem to hook up with them this season. The best traction we've found is Wraps with Paragon or Niftech. When I ran at SoCal (once) greens were the ticket for 1/10th pan, but you should try the 2 stage for 1/12th. If you could get some bite you wouldn't need those .024s, but I know the feeling!
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Old 07-15-2006, 02:57 AM   #19338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
The sealed surface at SoCal is similar to the one of our local tracks here in Ripon. It's weird that even though the track is sticky enough to pull your shoe off when you walk on it, the bite for 1/12th at Ripon is not very good. While greens or aquas worked well for stock last year, 19t doesn't seem to hook up with them this season. The best traction we've found is Wraps with Paragon or Niftech. When I ran at SoCal (once) greens were the ticket for 1/10th pan, but you should try the 2 stage for 1/12th. If you could get some bite you wouldn't need those .024s, but I know the feeling!
Thanks for the help. Yeah random 360's don't get you points for style I guess I will try some .024's. Who makes the best front end ride height shims?? I'm new to the 12th stuff. Thanks!
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Old 07-15-2006, 03:20 AM   #19339
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I only know of one brand but man are they the bomb. The companies name is fiber lite (or light). They are carbon fiber double horeshoes that only require you loosen the front end screws to slide them in. I bought two sets from a guy at my track who put in a group buy for some of us at my LHS. I think he ordered so many of them because the shipping from england made them expensive to get here in the states. Sorry I can't tell you more about how to get them, as I too am new 1/12. GL.
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Old 07-15-2006, 08:53 AM   #19340
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CRC also make them. They are color coded and work the same way as discribed above.
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Old 07-15-2006, 10:49 AM   #19341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Protc3 - Are you ready for the duel...1/12th and 19T Sedan at ten paces

its on sucka!!

RAL,

heavier dampening in the washers will add more front traction.when the car has a push or double steer,it is from the rear not allowing the front tires to hold the corner.when this occurs,i will start thickening the dampening in the washers until double steer is eliminated.if you go too far you will actually start to see the inside rear tire lift in tight corners.hope this helps
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Last edited by protc3; 07-15-2006 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 07-15-2006, 12:14 PM   #19342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
its on sucka!!

RAL,

heavier dampening in the washers will add more front traction.when the car has a push or double steer,it is from the rear not allowing the front tires to hold the corner.when this occurs,i will start thickening the dampening in the washers until double steer is eliminated.if you go too far you will actually start to see the inside rear tire lift in tight corners.hope this helps
Thanks for all the help guys! Going to the track today to wee what happens.
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Old 07-15-2006, 08:27 PM   #19343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
I only know of one brand but man are they the bomb. The companies name is fiber lite (or light). They are carbon fiber double horeshoes that only require you loosen the front end screws to slide them in. I bought two sets from a guy at my track who put in a group buy for some of us at my LHS. I think he ordered so many of them because the shipping from england made them expensive to get here in the states. Sorry I can't tell you more about how to get them, as I too am new 1/12. GL.
Hey AWD,

Kevin in Shreveport here....... do you guys have any more sets for sale?? I may need a back up set. I may have cracked one.
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Old 07-15-2006, 11:33 PM   #19344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAL
Thanks for all the help guys! Going to the track today to wee what happens.
No more helping RAL.
He just took 1st place tonight!
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Old 07-16-2006, 12:26 AM   #19345
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Default Help! My 1/12 keep spinning out of corner!

Guys..

I am new to 1/12. I tried everything except changing the front tire. Currently, the front tire waer out fast. Whenever I exit the corner and apply throtle, the car will spin. I have to be very very gentle on throtle, but that makes me very slow in the corner. 1/12 are not supposed to be slower than TC in corners.

Could the reason be the front tire has too much grip??? I have placed an order for a harder one but it's still on its way.
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Old 07-16-2006, 12:29 AM   #19346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBucks
No more helping RAL.
He just took 1st place tonight!
HaHa!!!!!
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Old 07-16-2006, 02:38 AM   #19347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed Demon
Guys..

I am new to 1/12. I tried everything except changing the front tire. Currently, the front tire waer out fast. Whenever I exit the corner and apply throtle, the car will spin. I have to be very very gentle on throtle, but that makes me very slow in the corner. 1/12 are not supposed to be slower than TC in corners.

Could the reason be the front tire has too much grip??? I have placed an order for a harder one but it's still on its way.
I had that problem a week ago. I don't know whether you run a T-plate or link car but I run a Slapmaster MS2.3 (T-plate). I found on my car two things: First, my rear track width (center to end of each wheel) was off. That measurement has to be even center to each edge of wheel with a max. width of 172mm. Second, my diff was too tight (I believe it would spin out if the diff was too loose also). After I corrected those things the car was back to normal. Check those two things because the whole time I thought the front-end was the culprit. But listening from the experience of others taught me that more often than not it's the rear-end that causes these types of problems.
What surface are you running on? Is it technical, tight, wide-open, flowing, etc? What tyres are you running right now?
I'm not by any means an expert so EXPERTS correct me if I'm wrong...HTH
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Old 07-16-2006, 06:17 AM   #19348
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JayBee,

Thanks for the info.. I will check those mentioned. I am running on asphalt with some tight corners. The car is using T-plate.
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Old 07-16-2006, 06:50 AM   #19349
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Hey AdrianM ygpm question for ya please get back to me
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Old 07-16-2006, 11:03 AM   #19350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speed Demon
JayBee,

Thanks for the info.. I will check those mentioned. I am running on asphalt with some tight corners. The car is using T-plate.
some more things to check:
-if the car spins out to one direction every time, check tweak. re-adjust tweak and swap the left and right tires every run to make sure they remain at equal diameter.
-if the car is generally twitchy to drive, check ride height balance front-rear.
should be about level.
-front lower than rear: aggressive steering. too much: car spins out every corner exit
- rear lower than front (generally not used): sluggish steering. too much: very much understeer. may also cause strange spinouts in certain conditions.
- rule of thumb: make sure front and rear ride height are within 1mm of eachother.

if the problem persist check back here for more advise.
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