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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-21-2002, 03:17 PM   #1921
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Skid, I was thinking, next time when you come down, we whould swap Jose's Paragon with some homemade goodies!!!
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Old 11-21-2002, 04:43 PM   #1922
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My club doesn't allow traction compound, probably because we pit in the kitchen of a church hall The carpet isn't ozite and has more grip so it's good to race on, and you can get a set of tires to last over 6 races

I came 4th in the A final tonight, I just need to stop crashing because I'm nearly on the pace

Doesn't matter about that T-plate pivot thing, I know what moving it does now.
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Old 11-22-2002, 06:20 AM   #1923
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Cleveland only 6 days from check in, who will be there? How is everyones' car running, what seems to be the most common problem(s)?
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Old 11-22-2002, 10:49 AM   #1924
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darnould: Good luck in Cleveland. No problems with tne car yet. but I did do rent a racer with my 12L lastweekend. Generated more intrest in 1/12 scale racing. Have 2-3 more people looking for cars now
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Old 11-22-2002, 12:04 PM   #1925
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Default question

who makes TQ traction compound

Thanks, E
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Old 11-22-2002, 12:13 PM   #1926
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Racers Choice TQ8
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Old 11-22-2002, 01:01 PM   #1927
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Quote:
Racers Choice TQ8
If I wanted my shop to order it, who distributes it (Horizon, Tower), where can it be obtained?

Thanks, E
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Old 11-22-2002, 02:36 PM   #1928
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4 cell modified

Hi folks!
We switched from 1/12 6 cell modified racing to 4 cell modified this season, so I am wondering which car to use? I raced an Associated RC12L3 in 6 cell, would it be a good choice for 4 cell modified? Or should I change to CRC Carpet Knife or Speedmerchand Rev. 3? Whats your opinion between CRC and Rev. 3??
Also what motors would you recommend? 12turn, 10turn, double, quad, what would be a good all round motor? Should I prefer a motor with high revs like ORION Chrome or prefer torque like Reedy TI???
Your help would be very much appreciated!!! Thanks!
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Old 11-22-2002, 03:02 PM   #1929
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if you track allows it paragon is the best traction compound out there.

as far as what car for 4 cell mod, the speedmerchant rev. 3 is better. besides having the old style front end which is alot better for carpet, the way the rear suspenion pivots is smoother and more consistant. the CRC uses fixed length side links that are very tough to get smooth even with polishing and softening the ballcups. but the speedmerchant uses adjustable side links that allow for your adjustment to be much more presice, and also its smoother since its an adjustable tension (ie screw holding it on) captured ball link.

and as proof, the speermerchant has being doing much better at big races than the crc. Overall after working on both and having driven both i have found the speedmerchant is better.
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Old 11-22-2002, 08:38 PM   #1930
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Neither...your L3 is fine for 4-cell mod. I'm going to be using 10x2 mainly for my 3300GP's.
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Old 11-23-2002, 12:53 AM   #1931
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Has anybody here tried ne of the new Trinity D5 flatwire motors. If so what wind, was it efficent, how did it feel n the track and what are you compareing it against?
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Old 11-23-2002, 07:32 AM   #1932
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I ran a new 12x1 D5 in my truck(I know not the same, but hey I ran it)..

From what I can say of the motor, it's got a fair bit of bottom end, massive mid-range, and quite a bit of top end compared to my D4 12x2..

As far as efficiency, well, the biggest thing on efficiency is the driver, I slightly overgear my truck and don't use full throttle and am very smooth, which since you run 1/12 I'm sure you drive pretty much the same way... Compared to the forementioned 12x2 I did lose alittle run time, but the D5 was pretty cool as far as temp..

But the motor totally RIPPED.. I used to run a 12x2 Sonic 2(Reedy Big Comm) because of the massive torque it produced, and I think the D5 is right there with it..

I'm actually taking out the motor this weekend, and putting the 12x2 D4 back in, the D5 was just too much power( first time I've EVER said that )
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Old 11-23-2002, 10:31 AM   #1933
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Quote:
Originally posted by stormperson
if you track allows it paragon is the best traction compound out there.

as far as what car for 4 cell mod, the speedmerchant rev. 3 is better. besides having the old style front end which is alot better for carpet, the way the rear suspenion pivots is smoother and more consistant. the CRC uses fixed length side links that are very tough to get smooth even with polishing and softening the ballcups. but the speedmerchant uses adjustable side links that allow for your adjustment to be much more presice, and also its smoother since its an adjustable tension (ie screw holding it on) captured ball link.

Is it not possible to carry out a mod to the CRC to change the balls and use adjustable side links with a turnbuckle?
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Old 11-23-2002, 11:37 AM   #1934
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dtm, you can change the plastic side links to ones with turnbuckles but i don't know why you'd want to, its more things that you have to make sure are perfect on that car and it would add weight. if you want to do it you can, thats one more thing that you would be able to adjust on that car.
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Old 11-23-2002, 02:05 PM   #1935
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they would be REALLY short, and since the rear end can pivot as well, i wouldnt suggest it.

as far as being something else to tune, the rev. 3 and the carpet knife can both adjust the rear pod in relation to the rest of the chassis, but the way it is done is different. the CRC is done by adjusting the screws at the pivot, the speedmerchant does it by the links, which allows it to be alot more precise, and also less likely to re-adjust by itself, thus making it more consistant.
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