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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-11-2006, 06:40 PM   #19261
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Hey guys,

A little help needed. I've searched for a reference for adjustment and what to expect on the track. Some specifics I am wondering about
  • Side Springs (Link Car) What does stiffer srpings to vs lighter ones?
  • Center Spring (Link Car) What does stiffer srpings to vs lighter ones?
  • Front Springs (Associated) What does stiffer srpings to vs lighter ones?
  • Droop? Angle of rear pod to chassis, what effect does it have?

If anyone knows of a reference similar to Hudy's Setup Book that comes with their setup station, I'd take that as well.

Thanks for looking and double thanks for sending tips & tricks my way....

Vincent
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Old 07-11-2006, 06:47 PM   #19262
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If you go to the airplane department of you local hobby shop look for a "Standard" not "Metric" Prop reamer(look for a sharp one!!!!). The first set of flutes is 1/4" and the 2nd is 5/16"(that 1/12th wheel bearing O.D.). You can use this tool to cut back the flutes in the front wheels to set the out side bearing in deeper.

Please practice on worn wheels a few times and make sure when you cut wheels that the left and right sides are identical or you will have a poor handling car.

This is not a fool proof operation so if you are not 100% confident in your ability to do it properly dont do it.

FYI, running a flanged inner bearing on the inside of your front wheels will get you a big increase in front width and stability. You will need threaded axles to do this.

FYI 2, this mod is for high grip carpet only. On asphalt running the front narrow gets you more steering.
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Old 07-11-2006, 07:00 PM   #19263
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  • Side Springs (Link Car) What does stiffer srpings to vs lighter ones?

Lighter springs more side bite, stiffer springs less side bite.
  • Center Spring (Link Car) What does stiffer srpings to vs lighter ones?

Lighter springs give more rear traction and better control on bumpy tracks.
  • Front Springs (Associated) What does stiffer srpings to vs lighter ones?

The stiffer you go the less steering you have. .020" springs are used 99.999% of the time on carpet and asphalt. You can use .018" on bumpy low traction tracks. .022" springs are never used. If you feel you need 22's there is something wrong somewhere in your car.
  • Droop? Angle of rear pod to chassis, what effect does it have?

Rear pod droop affect turn in. More droop in the rear makes the car turn in harder. Less or none at all makes the car smoother into corners.

In the front droop gives more high speed steering (yes...the opposite is the case in sedans...2wd dynamics vs. 4wd )

I have not fooled around with angling the rear pod.
  • If anyone knows of a reference similar to Hudy's Setup Book that comes with their setup station, I'd take that as well.

Here is a good resource...http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

Anyone got a link to Lufaso's website?
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Old 07-11-2006, 07:03 PM   #19264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Anyone got a link to Lufaso's website?
http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html
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Old 07-11-2006, 09:59 PM   #19265
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which lowered pods do y'all prefer for the 12L4? Pros cons of each?
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Last edited by andrewdoherty; 07-11-2006 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 07-11-2006, 10:15 PM   #19266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Can someone enlighten me on what some of the factory guys are doing with their Jaco front wheels to let the wheel nut (front) sit inside of the bearing race? I noticed a few SpeedMerchant guys doing it, like Mike Dumas, for one. Without the wheel on, they have a large stack of shims to compensate, too.

I have long had a problem with the front axle nuts catching boards and other cars, and it would help me a lot to be able to pull them under the surface of the wheel face.

Are they thinner bearings, or something else?
I am still new to 1/12 so fogive if this is a bogus suggestion. Is there any way to convert to the AE axles with the e-clips? On my 12L4 the axle and clip don't protrude. You would have to deal with e-clips though so stock up. Not bad though. You can get a lifetime supply for 5 dollars.
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Old 07-12-2006, 12:28 AM   #19267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i never ran the checkpoint yet.my kamodo has been such a rocket that i never really tried anything after it.
What spring combination and brushes do you use?
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Old 07-12-2006, 04:16 AM   #19268
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i have been using the xxx w green springs with alot of success.i put a .030 verticle slot in the brush.F brushes also work good full face w/ red springs.i mostly go the xxx route though
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Old 07-12-2006, 07:24 AM   #19269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
I am still new to 1/12 so fogive if this is a bogus suggestion. Is there any way to convert to the AE axles with the e-clips? On my 12L4 the axle and clip don't protrude. You would have to deal with e-clips though so stock up. Not bad though. You can get a lifetime supply for 5 dollars.
To run the front end wide you will need threaded axles from Riemon, CRC or Parma.
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Old 07-12-2006, 07:37 AM   #19270
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I guess I wan't really addressing the widening issue but rather thinking it would help keep his axles from catching because they stuck out. I thought that was why he wanted to move the nut inward.(or the wheel outward, however you look at it) Thanks for the clarification though.
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:32 AM   #19271
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Eh, E-clips were the worst method for securing a race wheel I have ever seen. Getting rid of those has been the best thing for 12th scale cars. I think getting the nut recessed into the Jaco wheel a bit more would be the best of both worlds.


Then again, there are other wheels out there that don't have this offset issue.
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:50 AM   #19272
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e clips are better then the o rings on the older corally cars. I remember them running down the straight and watching a wheel pop off just for the heck of it.

as for the recess. the older CRC rims did that for that reason. the nut is recessed back from the face of the rim. you can pop a wall and not scrap the nut on the wall. (sounds like something seaball would do) frank did it for that reason. the Hi-roller rims are not like that though.
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:56 AM   #19273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nashrcracer
e clips are better then the o rings on the older corally cars. I remember them running down the straight and watching a wheel pop off just for the heck of it.

as for the recess. the older CRC rims did that for that reason. the nut is recessed back from the face of the rim. you can pop a wall and not scrap the nut on the wall. (sounds like something seaball would do) frank did it for that reason. the Hi-roller rims are not like that though.

Oh yeah, I forgot about those. I guess I blocked them from my memory.


I wonder why CRC went back to a design on the High Rollers that would allow the nut to hang out in the open?
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:07 AM   #19274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nashrcracer
scrap the nut on the wall....sounds like something seaball would do
LMAO
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:09 AM   #19275
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Hi all, wanted to post a pic of the a new 12th car that I'm gonna give a go this winter series and wanted to see what people thought. There will be damper tubes on to control the rear end when they eventually turn up in case you were wondering...

Any thoughts?

Let me know what you think.

Cheers guys,

Chris.
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