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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-04-2006, 09:43 AM   #19111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
i agree with you.i do like the independant rear idea but the fact is that coil springs are just not as progressive as a torsion plate.being the minimal movement of the rear pod,the coil springs just dont have the quick reaction of a tplate.the downside is that a Tplate has a glass jaw.i can tell you this,i am working on a new rear end that will give the best of both worlds.when the time is right i will introduce it.
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Old 07-04-2006, 10:18 AM   #19112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbonium
sorry if this has been asked before, but on my Rev.4, i have the oldschool frontend, but i read where one or the other front was better for smooth, or bumpy tracks... any input as to which works better where? i am on carpet, and have access the AE front, as well.

and maybe the +'s or -'s of each setup? thanks....
hey wes

the carpet at ACR is new and the long hair/fiber type, i would consider it flat. traction is still somewhat low with just a slight shaded groove. i get a bite and slip feel throught the race especially in the rear of the car. you and me were both running the most flexible cars (DP-12 Fiberglass and YRX-12) that most would say are for asphalt, bumpy, or lo-trac tracks. yet we finished 1st and 2nd. at ACR i run the 0-deg blocks with a shim front and back. .020 springs with all play shimmed out. i also run a extra set of cutdown suspension blocks inbetween the lower arms and the 0 deg blocks. this makes the top arm lenght longer. car is for me agressive but yet not overly twitchy even with 10 deg blocks. car seems to stay flater with it also. i used to hear it refered to as the Mike Blackstock mod years ago. Derek saw it first hand.
with the IRS lowered front arms you get more useable life out of your front tires and able to run them lower.

last time i saw you with the Rev4, for the traction there, it was either overly twitchy in the frontend making it hard to drive. this is from the old front being really quick on initial response.

some info from the teamspeedmerchant site under the Rev3 on this subject:

the "old skool" front end used by many of our team drivers. Just a note about this. Here at SpeedMerchant, we do a lot of testing, and I can tell you on our car the old style front end works better about 90% of the time. Here's what we've found over the past few seasons.

The new stlye front end is better on bumpy tracks. Hopefully yours' isn't like that, but in our travels we've been on some pretty scary surfaces. In these cases, we put the new style front ends on the cars.

The "old skool" (yes, I realize that's not how school is spelled) front end gives our car more steering entering a corner than the new style front end.

In the center and exit of the turn it has slightly less steering than the new style front end.

This tends to compliment our chassis' handeling characterisitcs. Because of having all the weight in the centerline of the chassis, the Rev.3 doesn't transfer as much weight as most 12th scale cars do when entering a sharp corner, this can lead to "push" or "understeer". Like I said earlier the old style front end remedies this situtaion.

The "old skool" front end has much less "slop" than the new style. Whenever you have "play" in a suspension, either from wear or poor assembly you are just asking for inconsistency.

The "old skool" front end weighs about 1/2 of what a new one weighs. This lowers your cars total weight as well as lowering its' center of gravity.

The "old skool" front end can take a good hit and not go out of tweak. The new style front end is notorious for "moving" after a hard hit and then throwing the whole car out of tweak. Tons-o-times over the past few years drivers have brought me cars to look at with the complaint "It's out of tweak." After going through the car, guess where the problem is usually found. The front end. Either the delrin pivot balls are bound up, a spring is collapsed, or just too much play in the parts, etc, etc, etc.

Remember the K.I.S.S. theory on racing. Keep It Simple Stupid.
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BTW on the old front end...one thing not mentioned, the material AE uses now is very prone to breaking more the the new front. invest in the braces that SM sells
for the old front.
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Old 07-04-2006, 10:48 AM   #19113
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i can see with a more neutral layout having the old school front end getting it into the corner better but overall i do not see it being better.you can always make the new front end more aggressive by making the upper arm more horizontal.the new front end from what i can see has less slop than the old one.my front end is as tight as a drum until the parts just get worn out.the new front end hold corners much better for me and i have never had a problem getting in.this may just be the difference in layout but i just cant get the car to work as well with the old front end.it is simple but then again,the new one is not very complicated and can be tuned.blackstock told me a cool trick he did with the new front end by using 4-40 screws in the upper arm in front and rear and tapping the castor block and made a push pull caster adjustment.this avoids the unwanted slop caused from compressed teflon washers.
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Old 07-04-2006, 01:50 PM   #19114
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how many have the new sp12x?
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Old 07-04-2006, 02:32 PM   #19115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultraspeed84
how many have the new sp12x?
It hasn't been released yet. I read somewhere that it will be available in about a month. There were quite a few at the Worlds, including the one driven by David Spashett who won.
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Old 07-04-2006, 02:39 PM   #19116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
It hasn't been released yet. I read somewhere that it will be available in about a month. There were quite a few at the Worlds, including the one driven by David Spashett who won.
This is Spashett's car at the Worlds...Hardly an SPX12...

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Old 07-04-2006, 02:53 PM   #19117
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damn,he made a 12L4 out of a corally.
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Old 07-04-2006, 04:16 PM   #19118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
damn,he made a 12L4 out of a corally.
looks like the only thing there that is corally are the body post and the rear axle well i guess thats the only way to make a corally car go fast
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Old 07-04-2006, 04:26 PM   #19119
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Has anyone used the IRS 12th scale kingpins instead of the standard e-clip ones?
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Old 07-04-2006, 05:31 PM   #19120
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I use them and they are GREAT, much easier than messing with washers and e-clips
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Old 07-04-2006, 10:10 PM   #19121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex
This is Spashett's car at the Worlds...Hardly an SPX12...

If it is not an SP12x then what is it? Just because its modified doesn't mean its not a Corally.
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Old 07-04-2006, 10:35 PM   #19122
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Interesting how a lot of the fast cars are going back to the "old skool" cells across the chassis arrangment.
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Old 07-04-2006, 10:43 PM   #19123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Interesting how a lot of the fast cars are going back to the "old skool" cells across the chassis arrangment.
No kidding. I did it on my car so the tape wouldn't get rubbed off by the track, now I'm thinkin' maybe I was just smart!

You can get the weight a little farther back that way, though.
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Old 07-04-2006, 10:56 PM   #19124
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Anyone know when the new CRC chassis parts will be available. The new rear pod looks pretty trick as well...but mainly interested in the new, narrow chassis and new damper tube brace.
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Old 07-04-2006, 11:02 PM   #19125
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Its amazing how much fashion dictates how manufacturers have to design cars.

Case in point. The current trend in sedans to have easily removable top loading diffs. The engineers hate it. They say it increases the chances of building a tweaked car and makes the car tweak easier when it takes hit.

The Yokomo YR-4 series and the Schumacher SST series sedans were like that in the mid 90's. We got away from that and the cars were solid. Now its 10 years later and we are back where we started with the same problems.

In 1/12th the trend was battery adjustability and Narrow, Narrow, Narrow... Centralize mass at all costs. Guess what...the fast guys run thier batts slammed as far back as they can get them...ALWAYS and now they are running wider chassis cars.
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