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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-03-2006, 01:29 PM   #19081
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yes
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Old 07-03-2006, 01:35 PM   #19082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Like Jason said...10 deg reactive blocks are used everywhere...always. One top AE driver told me he has no idea why the 5 and 0 blocks exist.
0 blocks rule in OVAL!!!!

-Monti-
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Old 07-03-2006, 01:38 PM   #19083
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I have my 10L2 up for sale with some extra goodies if anyone wants a big brother for their baby pan car...

RC10L2 ROLLER WITH EXTRAS!!!
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Old 07-03-2006, 02:31 PM   #19084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychosilence
OK....have a good laugh at me

Are you saying I must put oil.....perhaps a drop of 5000wt oil between the damper plates and the plate? Like so:

Just like so...spread it on the disks with your fingertip
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Old 07-03-2006, 02:58 PM   #19085
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Thank you for the info! Im going to try it out this weekend......it would also explain why the front tire wear looks like a cone after a run or two. Way to much tilting of the chassis in a corner. Should be able to take corners a little faster now too!
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Old 07-03-2006, 03:38 PM   #19086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychosilence
OK....have a good laugh at me

Are you saying I must put oil.....perhaps a drop of 5000wt oil between the damper plates and the plate? Like so:

that is correct.i put the oil on the discs and then rub them together.make sure they have a nice wet film on both of them and then put them in place.another thing to look for is that your T plate is in good working order.when they are done in is when they feel like real light spring tension.the rear pod doesnt move very much.you want the 1st 1/16" of flex to have a nice progressive feel.if it feels loose and weak toss the T plate.also,do not let anyone twist the snot out of the rear pod.that kills the T plate.
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Old 07-03-2006, 03:40 PM   #19087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychosilence
Thank you for the info! Im going to try it out this weekend......it would also explain why the front tire wear looks like a cone after a run or two. Way to much tilting of the chassis in a corner. Should be able to take corners a little faster now too!
let us know how it goes buddy.if your front tires are still coning,mess with the camber a little bit until they wear even.which direction are they coning?
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Old 07-03-2006, 03:50 PM   #19088
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Wear is twice as much on the outer of the tire compared to the inner.
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Old 07-03-2006, 03:54 PM   #19089
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Another question..... when running on a relatively bump asphalt surface....what setup should I be looking at?
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Old 07-03-2006, 04:47 PM   #19090
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if it is wearing on the outside of the tire i would run more camber.try 1 degree of camber per wheel.if you want to add camber gain you can swap some shims on the king pin and raise the upper arm to more of an incline.just make sure not to preload the spring too much.i usually set it so that when at ride height i have no gap between the lower arm and steering knuckle.i set it with as little preload as possible.on a bumpy track i would run about 25 wt shock oil with the olive spring in your shock.5mm rear ride height and 4.5mm front ride height.(5mm front if its too twitchy for you).try the .020 front springs,.063 T plate,double pink front and rear jaco wrap tires at 1.9" diameter rear and 1.825 diameter front.i like a little bigger tire size for bumps.you get more forward traction,and a parma speed 8 body.hope this helps buddy
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Old 07-03-2006, 05:26 PM   #19091
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Anyone run CRC's procut foams? I'm still new to 1/12th and want to ask which compound should I use on Ozite? I don't think I can handle same rating front and rear. Do I also have to still true them for use? I believe its 1.80' front and 1.90' rear.

Also another question, how many runs can these foams be used before I have to throw them out? Nothing like 1-2 runs compare like 1/10th TC right?
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Old 07-03-2006, 05:44 PM   #19092
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TFR - Wear on carpet is really good. How long you can run your tires depends on how much traction your track has and how competative you local crowd of racers are.

If the grip is moderate and the locals are regular club racers you can run Procuts right out of the box.

If the grip is super high and you race with natinal level drivers you will have to true them smaller, ca the front side walls and you will get fewer runs from them.

I would run Purple fronts and grey rears on carpet unless you are running Mod. Mod runs double pinks all around for more forward traction (they can spin grey ) and the double pink fronts dont get as sticky and grabby as purples at mod speeds.
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Old 07-03-2006, 08:40 PM   #19093
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TFR .... At fastcats, CRC Black front and CRC white rear are a good combo... Purple and grey work to.

Good luck
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Old 07-03-2006, 09:49 PM   #19094
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The setups you all are giving, are they for a thick chassis or a thin chassis like the 12l4. I have a 2.5 mm chassis on my car, and I run it on asphalt. I have also the same setup as Protc3 is describing. Except for damper disk( I use tubes) and the ride height( I run 3.5 to 4 mm all the way around).
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:01 PM   #19095
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ANyone know if it is possible, or worthwhile, converting a T-Fource to a Carpet Knife?? I have the latest version of the T-Fource if it makes a difference.

thanks
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