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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-02-2006, 08:46 PM   #19066
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i was more wondering on the castor of the pin.
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Old 07-02-2006, 09:00 PM   #19067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPC Racer
how much castor do i want to run for stock on a carpet track?
On the AE front end you run one shim in front of the reactive caster block and one behind. If you wan a smoother feel you can run both in back. Caster is really good for fixing problems in steering feel. You want your car to steer in a linear realtionship to how you turn your Tx wheel. If your car turns in hard but you need to turn more mid corner to hold the line add more caster. This will make the car more consistant to drive and faster.

Like Jason said...10 deg reactive blocks are used everywhere...always. One top AE driver told me he has no idea why the 5 and 0 blocks exist.
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Old 07-02-2006, 09:12 PM   #19068
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thanks both of you for the information. now how much castor is it when im running the shims split? if the the angle of the pin was off from side to side would that give a tweak feeling?
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Old 07-03-2006, 01:10 AM   #19069
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looking for spare parts for swicthblade spashett edition and reflex any help would really be nice thnks.
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Old 07-03-2006, 01:31 AM   #19070
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I searched for "16 gauge wire" in this thread but only found old info. Does anyone have a lead on getting some 16 gauge wire? LHS doesn't carry it.
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Old 07-03-2006, 01:58 AM   #19071
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i dont know where you are but have you tried a local electrical shop
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Old 07-03-2006, 02:13 AM   #19072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPC Racer
thanks both of you for the information. now how much castor is it when im running the shims split? if the the angle of the pin was off from side to side would that give a tweak feeling?
I am pretty sure middle is 4 deg and back is 6 deg.


Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
I searched for "16 gauge wire" in this thread but only found old info. Does anyone have a lead on getting some 16 gauge wire? LHS doesn't carry it.
Try this place: http://robotmarketplace.com/marketplace_wire.html
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Old 07-03-2006, 05:58 AM   #19073
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Hi,

I recently got a RC12L4 that I race on asphalt. In a nutshell, what setup tips could anyone give me? I read about 5000wt oil on the plates but don't quite understand.

I use speedmind 30 rear foams and 35 in the front. Usually run a 8x3 or 10x3 motor. The car always seems to push like crazy through the corners, and when leaving a corner with the trigger pegged, the car wiggles. The car is built as per manual with no changes. Watching the worlds, the cars seem to be on rails and I know mine would never take any corners at those speeds.

There is a national event coming up in a few days time and any tips that might help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 07-03-2006, 06:54 AM   #19074
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I sense an overabundance of power.
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Old 07-03-2006, 08:37 AM   #19075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clinehobbies
...we are running 19t or mod.
SRS is re-doing there on-road track after next weeks race. We should have a new layout for the 14th.....
Bill
Bill,
I'd like to come up. I'll see if Max (crc) and John (he running a Hara car now) want to go.

What 19t are you guys using? The CP or KD? Is Keoni running his own line of motors?
E
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Old 07-03-2006, 08:41 AM   #19076
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You think? Wot motors are the blokes using at the worlds?
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:18 AM   #19077
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In some cases having too much dual rate dialed in can also cause double steer. Sometimes less dual rate actuall equals more turn in... just throwing out one other scenario.
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:41 AM   #19078
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the heavier oil in the discs slow the reaction of the rear pod squaring up and allows the car to hold the roll.what you will find is the the car will bite in much harder throughout the whole corner.you will know if the dampening is too thick because it will bite in so hard that it will start to lift the inside rear tire in the tight corners.
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Old 07-03-2006, 12:41 PM   #19079
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Hydrogen Fuel Cell RC Car....... Sweet!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...28#post2476928
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Old 07-03-2006, 01:23 PM   #19080
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OK....have a good laugh at me

Are you saying I must put oil.....perhaps a drop of 5000wt oil between the damper plates and the plate? Like so:
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