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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-02-2006, 02:32 AM   #19051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
years ago when fronts were $18+ and rears were $20+ (standard foam yellow,green,& blue compounds) one could save alot of money by saving rims and buying donuts. donuts were cheap compared to the overall price of pretrued/mounted tires. due to more competition prices have come down, but not on just donuts

when you look at stormerhobbies site and see JACO purple, grey, white donuts for 9.99 and pinks for 11.99. then do to kthobbies, they sell JACO mounted/trued tires in the same compounds front or rear...for 12.99! why bother.
Why Bother? Well RC Champ in Tokyo sells them for less than $7usd a pair( in packs of 3 pairs ). A friend bought a pack of 3 pairs from them in person earlier in the year and they seem to be working very well at our local track. They're a Xenon P/N, ( though on the Xenon site it says they are actually Jaco pinks ) but when I emailed about getting more they said they only had one pack in stock and infered they might not get anymore . IF they had some in stock, at that price they are cost effective considering 1/12 wheels and tires are rare as hens teeth in Australia, so you have to mail order anyway. I already emailed KThobbies, they wanted way more than stormer for postage, a bit of a rippoff actually. I'll see what CRC can do. Seems like a waste ending up with a bunch of left over rims. But Thanks everyone for you're input.
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Old 07-02-2006, 08:57 AM   #19052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricF
Bill,
CH has switched to racing on friday nights. I'll see if Max is willing to trek up to SRS on the 14th. I haven't ran my 1/12 on asphalt in a while. Besides CH needs to replace their carpet it has more ripples in it than the ocean. Not good for 1/12.

What chassis do you run? Will you guys be running mod, 19t or stock? What traction compound do you use at srs?

E

I am running a speed merchant rev.4 chassis so is one other guy. Kenoi is running a crc t-force, I think gabe is running/ will run a trinity chassis, there is also a guy from tuscon that has a corally. We have only run one friday 2 weeks ago. and are planning on running 1/12th next on the 14th.
but a few of us are brining them to the track every week to pratice and setup the cars after the normal racing. I have a lot of old compund tires and
am trying to find a setup for using all my old greens and yellows with a old 2-blot rear axle. so far I have the car working with old jaco pinks front and rear.
I have been using Paragon, and jack the gripper for tracton compound. we are running 19t or mod.
SRS is re-doing there on-road track after next weeks race. We should have a new layout for the 14th.....


Bill
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Old 07-02-2006, 04:13 PM   #19053
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Default 12L4 setup issue.

Ok, a question for all you setup guru's out there.

I am having an issue with my 12L4. In fact I have always had this issue to some extent.
The front end of the car "wobbles" alot coming into corners. It's like it grips, loses grip for a fraction of a second and then grips again. It will do this three or 4 times as I come into the corner. It always hold the line I want but can be a bit off putting with the front end moving around like it is.
I am running a 12L4 on ashfelt in modified. We do not use traction additive as we are not allowed too. But even when I have raced overseas where traction additve was allowed the car still had the problem.
My latest theory is the centre spring I am using is too soft so I have ordered some harder ones and will try them. Is there any other theory's out there?
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Old 07-02-2006, 06:00 PM   #19054
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Hello There Fatbear,

Though I have not raced asphalt 1/12th scale in years I race carpet in the winter months you could try a Harder front spring or a harder front tire compound.

You may push alitte but it may be alittle easier to drive you can also reduce your caster block to a 5 degree one It will take away steering but It will be alittle more easier to drive.

Again my knowlege of running asphalt is limited I hope this this may help Theres a guy on here His name is Adrian he is sponsord buy Shumacher he is very knowledgable about running 1/12th asphalt as well as The guy from BMI to I think his name is Jason.

Hope this helps
Mike
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Old 07-02-2006, 06:54 PM   #19055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatbear
Ok, a question for all you setup guru's out there.

I am having an issue with my 12L4. In fact I have always had this issue to some extent.
The front end of the car "wobbles" alot coming into corners. It's like it grips, loses grip for a fraction of a second and then grips again. It will do this three or 4 times as I come into the corner. It always hold the line I want but can be a bit off putting with the front end moving around like it is.
I am running a 12L4 on ashfelt in modified. We do not use traction additive as we are not allowed too. But even when I have raced overseas where traction additve was allowed the car still had the problem.
My latest theory is the centre spring I am using is too soft so I have ordered some harder ones and will try them. Is there any other theory's out there?
The problem is not in your front end. What you are describing is called double steering and it is a result of the rear breaking and regaining traction mid corner. This is usually caused by too little rear side to side damping (too heavy a grease on the damper plates). What are you using?
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Last edited by AdrianM; 07-02-2006 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 07-02-2006, 06:59 PM   #19056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
The problem is not in your front end. What you are describing is called double steering and it is a result of the rear breaking and regaining traction mid corner. This is usually caused by too much rear side to side damping (too heavy a grease on the damper plates). What are you using?
I am using 100WT shock oil on the damper plates. Oh and it happens to be Shumacher brand as well.
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Old 07-02-2006, 07:13 PM   #19057
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try 5000 wt. 1/8th diff oil and put it on the washers.i use that and i went to double pink front tires and it makes it harder for the front to lose the traction at speed.
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Old 07-02-2006, 07:20 PM   #19058
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What if you had the same problem he's having but, using damper tubes and springs? Do you use a lighter/heavier oil in the tubes? Or lighter/heavier springs? or both?

I have had that problem in the past on carpet and usually just drove through it but, I obviously was losing speed in the corners.

?

Thanks
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Old 07-02-2006, 07:20 PM   #19059
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I agree. 100wt is too light. I also use 5000wt diff lube from 1/8 nitro car diffs.

The double pinks are a good idea but only if they are Jaco wraps. Non-wrap double pinks in front will make the car super twitchy.
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Old 07-02-2006, 07:22 PM   #19060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
try 5000 wt. 1/8th diff oil and put it on the washers.i use that and i went to double pink front tires and it makes it harder for the front to lose the traction at speed.

Thanks both Adrian and Jason.
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Old 07-02-2006, 07:24 PM   #19061
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i like twitchey!!!!!!!!!!

with the tubes you can go thicker also.what it does is dampen the twist of the t plate or compression of the side springs.the more dampening,the slower it reacts(spring return)and it will not allow the front end to unload
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Old 07-02-2006, 08:14 PM   #19062
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I re-read my post an realized I got it backwards. Double steer is caused by too little side to side damping....sorry
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Old 07-02-2006, 08:25 PM   #19063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Decathalon
Why Bother? Well RC Champ in Tokyo sells them for less than $7usd a pair( in packs of 3 pairs ). A friend bought a pack of 3 pairs from them in person earlier in the year and they seem to be working very well at our local track. They're a Xenon P/N, ( though on the Xenon site it says they are actually Jaco pinks ) but when I emailed about getting more they said they only had one pack in stock and infered they might not get anymore . IF they had some in stock, at that price they are cost effective considering 1/12 wheels and tires are rare as hens teeth in Australia, so you have to mail order anyway. I already emailed KThobbies, they wanted way more than stormer for postage, a bit of a rippoff actually. I'll see what CRC can do. Seems like a waste ending up with a bunch of left over rims. But Thanks everyone for you're input.
shipping from japan is high here, in that case, i would still say why bother. from what you have said in your post, sounds like that was NOS (new old stock) and wont be getting more. postage is teribbly high for some reason to your country and NZ. i have sold items on ebay to individuals in each country once. for example: on a $38 item the individual won on the auction the shipping was $42. when i inquired at the US post office they told me the price jump comes at their (your) end. items couldn't be insured and to make sure they got them i had to register them.

any americans or US military racing at your track? the reason i ask, when they do orders you could piggy back off them. they are allowed to use the US postal system at a US embassy or if set-up at a military base. when shipping from your country and when receiving, etc. shipping for them is calculated from a APO Box address in california which means the shipping is about only 25% or less than you would pay.
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Old 07-02-2006, 08:25 PM   #19064
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how much castor do i want to run for stock on a carpet track?
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Old 07-02-2006, 08:30 PM   #19065
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on asphalt and carpet i run the 10 degree castor blocks.i tried the others and they became paper weights shortly after trying them.i run on shim in front and back of the upper arm
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