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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-18-2006, 06:55 PM   #18856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
man,jeff brown just posted this in another forum.its a walk down memory lane huh.

http://www.rc-car-museum.de/1_12_Mod...m_ep_4_wd.html

yeah thats pretty cool. this isn't the same but it got me thinking about the 4 wheel steer car i saw online about 8- 10 years ago. i think i know who made it but i'm not wearing my fire suit today
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Old 06-18-2006, 06:58 PM   #18857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graphitedust
A few questions for the masses:

I am running a 12L3 and my question is this:

How is the motor pod supposed to sit in relation to the chassis plate? Is it supposed to be on the same plane as the chassis? Or is it supposed to droop and how much? As the droop is increased, what happens?

And what is the method for adjustment -if any? Preload the shock spring? Washers under the front ball on the "T" bar?

Just what happens when you increase the preload on the shock spring?

I'm not sure how this pod thing is susposed to be set-up and how changes affect the car.......All answers are appreciated!

what you want to do is have the pod sit level at ride height.the way i set this is by first taking the shock off the car.i adjust the spring collar so that is just touches the spring when shock is at full extension.then i put it back on the car.then you want to check your rear pod for level with a ride height gauge under all four corner.if it is sagging in the front,extend the shock by backing the ballcups on the shock,if it is higher in the front of the pod,shorten the shock by screwing the ballcups onto the shock more.i never use the shock collar to adjust this because then i will lose my preset droop setting.if you preload the spring using the shock collar,it can allow the shock to blow apart in a crash.important part is that the pod is level at ride height.
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Old 06-18-2006, 07:12 PM   #18858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
what you want to do is have the pod sit level at ride height.the way i set this is by first taking the shock off the car.i adjust the spring collar so that is just touches the spring when shock is at full extension.then i put it back on the car.then you want to check your rear pod for level with a ride height gauge under all four corner.if it is sagging in the front,extend the shock by backing the ballcups on the shock,if it is higher in the front of the pod,shorten the shock by screwing the ballcups onto the shock more.i never use the shock collar to adjust this because then i will lose my preset droop setting.if you preload the spring using the shock collar,it can allow the shock to blow apart in a crash.important part is that the pod is level at ride height.

Listen to the man he knows his stuff

Jason great run today I wish your rear tire didn't peel off the rim so you could have signed your name next to the track record for 12th scale @ Speedline. Your car was crazy fast. Keep me posted on the new BMI 12th scale car .


Later,
E

Last edited by RED-LINE M03; 06-19-2006 at 04:50 AM. Reason: .
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Old 06-18-2006, 08:03 PM   #18859
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thanks dude.the car was great today.im gonna start c/aing the rim for now on to stop that.i never had that happen before. i didnt even get a chance to hit anything yet.
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Old 06-18-2006, 08:36 PM   #18860
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Jay, good to hear the car was dialled at Speedline, Adrian and my cars were right on pace at the FSEARA race. I ended up TQ'ing and Adrian was not far behind. We got rained out for the mains. I think Adrians car was a bit faster then mine, but we had two of the fastest cars there. Thats two TQ's for the DB12 in a row at the State series.
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Old 06-18-2006, 09:01 PM   #18861
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thats awesome tim.congrats to you and adrian.my car was on fire today also.i just ran into some problems with the wraps unwrapped. its sucks because i was on pace to be about a 1/2 lap ahead of the track record.oh well,there is always next year for that layout
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Old 06-19-2006, 12:12 AM   #18862
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Thanks CarbonWorks and odpurple!... that sounds great. Then I can gett the "old" one and just bye the new micro reciver.

Many thanks
Fredrik C
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Old 06-19-2006, 05:10 AM   #18863
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Default asso L4

Hello i've got an associated L4 full option , and i broken a part but the problem it is i don' t find this part . This is a photo join with the part .


THanks
Best regar


Sorry for the language , i m french
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Old 06-19-2006, 06:18 AM   #18864
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That looks like or might be a BMI chassis, not a 12L4. You might want to ask the guurus of this thread. However a top brace like that would really stiffen the chassis. I never seen a top brace like that for a 12th scale. Neat looking...
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Old 06-19-2006, 06:42 AM   #18865
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That indeed is a picture of a BMI DB12, I call that an upper deck, but it may have another name.
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Old 06-19-2006, 08:08 AM   #18866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiftycent
Hello i've got an associated L4 full option , and i broken a part but the problem it is i don' t find this part . This is a photo join with the part .


THanks
Best regar


Sorry for the language , i m french
Go here to see that part at BMI Racing. You need to contact BMI.

http://www.bmiracing.com/images/BMI%...ssis%20kit.jpg

http://www.bmiracing.com
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Old 06-19-2006, 08:13 AM   #18867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
thats awesome tim.congrats to you and adrian.my car was on fire today also.i just ran into some problems with the wraps unwrapped. its sucks because i was on pace to be about a 1/2 lap ahead of the track record.oh well,there is always next year for that layout

Way to go Jason!!! 12th scale guru-eh??
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Old 06-19-2006, 09:24 AM   #18868
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how do you figure out roll out on a 12th scale and what is a good roll out for a monster motor on a camilation 19 t?
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Old 06-19-2006, 09:51 AM   #18869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadrashracing
how do you figure out roll out on a 12th scale and what is a good roll out for a monster motor on a camilation 19 t?
((tire diameter X 3.14) X Pinion) / spur)

Monster roll out = 48mm - 50mm

C2 = 52 - 55
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Old 06-19-2006, 09:53 AM   #18870
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thanks
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