R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-13-2006, 06:39 PM   #18781
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 25,177
Trader Rating: 140 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Capelracer
Can I use the Hara conversion on an RC12L3, or do I need an L4???
I have it on my 12L3
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2006, 08:31 PM   #18782
Tech Elite
 
speedxl's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Portland Oregon.
Posts: 3,876
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Capelracer
Can I use the Hara conversion on an RC12L3, or do I need an L4???
Capel the car was designed to be a conversion for the 12l3. You can use a 12l4 if you'd like.
__________________
Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push
speedxl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 04:37 AM   #18783
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: ..... still far from heaven!
Posts: 1,407
Send a message via MSN to ickvanovs
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Capelracer
Can I use the Hara conversion on an RC12L3, or do I need an L4???
what is Hara conversion?
ickvanovs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 06:00 AM   #18784
Tech Elite
 
MAD916's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Center Seca
Posts: 3,117
Default Race at Timezone this July 21,22,23 2006

Hey Guys: We just wanted to get a reminder about our Race this July 21, 22, 23, 2006 at Timezone Raceway Park in Washington State. Truly one of the finest permanent on road facilities in the United Sates, We will be running 10th scale and 12th scale Pan Cars as well as 10th scale touring cars. We attached an Ariel photo, an entry form and we guarantee you a great time.

for more information go to: www.timezoneracing.com
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-ariel_photo1-copy.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2006 pan car touring car championships.pdf (104.4 KB, 73 views)
__________________
Timezone Raceway Park " on-road outdoor european style road course.
Timezone II 60'x100' indoor carpet track. Host of the ROAR 2011 Carpet Nat's.
Timezonehobbies.com your new source for online RC products.
MAD916 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 08:24 AM   #18785
Tech Master
 
nordheim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 1,725
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ickvanovs
what is Hara conversion?
http://h1069795.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...?prod=HBS90200
__________________
SEATTLEINDOORRACEWAY.COM - VALLEYVIEWRC.COM
nordheim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 08:46 AM   #18786
Super Moderator
 
Marcos.J's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Semper Fi
Posts: 25,177
Trader Rating: 140 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nordheim
almost everybody is out of stock on the conversions
Marcos.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 09:14 AM   #18787
Tech Master
 
CarlosG.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Falls City,TX
Posts: 1,145
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to CarlosG.
Default

I know DPowell has the chasis conversion for a thicker chassis. But I have tried to get just certain parts for the conversion and you can't get them from Hotbodies. I had my LHS become a Hotbodies dealer, that was last year around march, and still no parts have come in. I wanted back then the bottom pod plate and chassis. I think my lhs still has one kit left of the AH-12 for less than $100. I recommend if you get the conversion get the DPowell chassis conversion for the graphite pieces.
CarlosG. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 09:24 AM   #18788
Tech Regular
 
Fervidsea's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 251
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default SP12M AE

Hey guys can I get a baseline setup for the SP12M AE, running on an asphalt parking lot track.

Thanks
Fervidsea is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 09:55 AM   #18789
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J
almost everybody is out of stock on the conversions
I am not sure it is still being made. The Hara 12 car was...uh...challenging to get going fast with.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 03:49 PM   #18790
Tech Lord
 
protc3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Spring Hill,Florida
Posts: 10,813
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM
I am not sure it is still being made. The Hara 12 car was...uh...challenging to get going fast with.

nice
__________________
Jason Breiner
BMI Racing
Team Associated
J Concepts
protc3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 07:22 PM   #18791
Company Representative
 
Team Kwik's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 517
Send a message via AIM to Team Kwik Send a message via MSN to Team Kwik
Default

Hi Guys,

I just posted this over in the Speedmerchant forum and wanted to share it here as well. I'm just a bit too excited about all this =)

I had a chance to run my Rev4.5 last night for the first time and I have to say, this is hands down the most amazing car on the market right now. Those of you who know me will agree that I am by no means an incredible wheel but last night I looked like a million bucks! I attached a few pictures of the car for you guys to check out and there's a bunch of little updates over the past year or so that really complement the kit. Bruce deserves a big pat on the back for taking an already proven winner and refining it to be an even better chassis.

First on my car is obviously the 4.5 conversion, the pod went together smoothly and the parts fit well. Overall it's the best innovation yet for the Rev.4. No more struggling to change motors and out of every 4-bolt pod design this one is by far the easiest to solder a motor into. Worth every penny!

Next is the rear tweak brace and large standoffs. I had purchased a kit some time ago and it included the standard tweak brace made of the same thickness carbon as the chassis. Bruce and company saw this part could exhibit flex and over time might be an area of concern. After talking to Bruce he mentioned the updated part which is made of a much thicker carbon so of course I jumped at the idea. Also on my car are the new large standoffs, talk about a SOLID rear end, the added size not only looks cool but it does lend extra support to this critical area of the chassis. If you've got an older car treat yourself with this setup, it's pretty cheap and worth it on the track.

Finally I got a bunch of the new tweak springs. Bruce wasn't kidding when he said these were more consistent and much higher in quality. From the moment you snap these on the retainer you can see the difference and they hang nearly perfect. Toss out the old painted springs and snag a few pairs of these as they are totally worth it.

Sorry for rambling on, but these tweaks all added up to some great runs for me last night at the local track. I went A LAP faster than my best after taking my time freshening the car up with a few new parts!

Nick
Attached Thumbnails
1/12 forum-nicksrev4.jpg   1/12 forum-nicksrev4-1.jpg   1/12 forum-nicksrev4-2.jpg  
__________________
Team Kwik
http://www.teamkwik.com
Team Kwik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 07:38 PM   #18792
Tech Master
 
STARSCREAM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,351
Default

worlds are on carpet....and that kid Marc is running a CRC car....hhhmmmmm
__________________
Sean Maybell

Team Associated/Reedy/LRP
STARSCREAM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 07:48 PM   #18793
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Kwik
Hi Guys,

I just posted this over in the Speedmerchant forum and wanted to share it here as well. I'm just a bit too excited about all this =)

I had a chance to run my Rev4.5 last night for the first time and I have to say, this is hands down the most amazing car on the market right now. Those of you who know me will agree that I am by no means an incredible wheel but last night I looked like a million bucks! I attached a few pictures of the car for you guys to check out and there's a bunch of little updates over the past year or so that really complement the kit. Bruce deserves a big pat on the back for taking an already proven winner and refining it to be an even better chassis.

First on my car is obviously the 4.5 conversion, the pod went together smoothly and the parts fit well. Overall it's the best innovation yet for the Rev.4. No more struggling to change motors and out of every 4-bolt pod design this one is by far the easiest to solder a motor into. Worth every penny!

Next is the rear tweak brace and large standoffs. I had purchased a kit some time ago and it included the standard tweak brace made of the same thickness carbon as the chassis. Bruce and company saw this part could exhibit flex and over time might be an area of concern. After talking to Bruce he mentioned the updated part which is made of a much thicker carbon so of course I jumped at the idea. Also on my car are the new large standoffs, talk about a SOLID rear end, the added size not only looks cool but it does lend extra support to this critical area of the chassis. If you've got an older car treat yourself with this setup, it's pretty cheap and worth it on the track.

Finally I got a bunch of the new tweak springs. Bruce wasn't kidding when he said these were more consistent and much higher in quality. From the moment you snap these on the retainer you can see the difference and they hang nearly perfect. Toss out the old painted springs and snag a few pairs of these as they are totally worth it.

Sorry for rambling on, but these tweaks all added up to some great runs for me last night at the local track. I went A LAP faster than my best after taking my time freshening the car up with a few new parts!

Nick
Damn! I didn't know about the new standoffs. And I just placed an order, too. Guess I'll have to add to it!
Thanks Nick
__________________
TOP Racing USA--OD Racing--Novak--Power Push--J Spec
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2006, 10:52 PM   #18794
Tech Champion
 
AdrianM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 5,914
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Kwik
...out of every 4-bolt pod design this one is by far the easiest to solder a motor into.
The BMI DB-12 has been like that (wide open and easy to access) for 2 years.
__________________
Adrian Martinez
What I run: Schumacher Mi5/Associated RC10R5.1/Associated RC12R5.2/Futaba/HobbyWing/Team EA Motorsports/BSR Racing
Where I run: Florida Indoor R/C Complex/Thunder Racing/Florida On Road State Series
AdrianM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2006, 08:37 AM   #18795
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 270
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default 1/12th CRC 3.2R Help!

Hello...
Just built and ran for the first time a CRC 3.2R last night...I'm new to 1/12th scale and need some advice...
How do I adjust ride height? It was different all around the car...I added shims to the front, moved the shock, up and down on the tweak screws...changed the rear pod axel holders...Where do I start first and how to proceed?

Any other set up tips would be great too!

Thanks in advance for the help!
Maxxratter is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:53 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0