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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 11-15-2002, 08:52 AM   #1861
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Default Corally sp12

Hey guys,

I will possibly be getting an sp12g3 in a trade and was wondering if any of you have some setups for the car for assphalt and carpet? Also, do you have to purchase Corally wheels for the car or will the Jaco and Trc's work fine? I noticed that the TRC's are about 5 bucks cheaper a pair than the Jaco's, do they lack in performance or are they as good? Also the Corally Silvers and Golds seem to be the cheapest, how do they work.?Thanks, Blake.
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Old 11-15-2002, 08:54 AM   #1862
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thats a very good point kevin. besides i dont really trust a manufacturer that has a monopoly on just about everything r/c that wants to run for president. i feel that will not be good for the sport. I would like to have the same deal as europe has where you know what batts will be legal for the year so theres no guessing.
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Old 11-15-2002, 08:55 AM   #1863
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Corally have to use their own wheels, so the only way to run Jaco or TRC would be to glue them yourself and buy the wheels separately.
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Old 11-15-2002, 09:00 AM   #1864
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KevinK: I understand. Ernie did not make it. Rick Wilson has the vote, on the ROAR site . Do not trust them. GP is actually a powers cell I was told. Not sure on the size thing. Some oval racers have them here, I will see what we have. Cells came from promatch. Are the new sanyo 3300 legal size?
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Old 11-15-2002, 09:12 AM   #1865
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Originally posted by RC Nitro
.......Do not trust them. GP is actually a powers cell I was told. Not sure on the size thing. Some oval racers have them here, I will see what we have. Cells came from promatch. Are the new sanyo 3300 legal size?
Powers are a GP cell!
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Old 11-15-2002, 09:30 AM   #1866
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Hey everyone, just got back up to speed here with my recent move things have been really hectic.

Fiddle Faddle- The trinity 02 will have a narrower rear track than the maximum legal width unless you use an extra shim or two. I don't have my car with me just now but i will look at it and get back to you on just what shims i am using. I know that on the left side hub there is a small flange on on side of it and a longer flange on the other side. What you want to do is use the longer flange side toward the bearing/pod plate and let the smaller size flange be on the inside of the left wheel. If i remember correctly i have two spacers on the left side of the car and two spacers on the right side of the car (but i think they total a little less lenght than the left side ones). I'll let you know the exact dimensions.

Kev- Looking forward to Sat. at Venture and Sunday at Trackside doing the 12th scale mod. Regarding the batteries issue i'm not sure. Capacity to some degree seems influenced by size but if we are talking about 43.3 mm vs. 43mm being the rule as an example then it seems a little mute because the capacity shouldn't be coming from something that small. All it would take to make them "legal" in that example would be what many racers already do when they assemble their cells which is to dremel the pos/neg sides. Now if we are talking about 48mm vs the leagal 43mm then maybe there is something to it, and who is to say/define what "production tolerance variation" is/will be, i don't know.

i do remember that they did increase the rule on length when the 3000's first came out and if i'm not mistaken i remember that some voiced the same concern about rule infraction on length then. My main concern is to have a durable cell that keeps its performance over 30+ cycles (the more the better) and to lower the cost for buying batteries. The USTC did discuss a battery freeze every two years but voted against it when everything was looked at. It's hard to say because i'm not sure anyone really has the hard data to know what racers want and why and a fifty or so informal comments over various boards doesn't statistically count vs. the thousands of racers. One aspect that i haven't heard talked about is the "boomerang effect" as i call it regarding technology freezes. If we freeze batteries every two years then during that brief summer period for battery review who is going to pick what to use for the upcoming indoor season or in the midst of the outdoor season? Who is to say that the battery manufactuers are going to make anything to our specs? If batteries are increasing in capacity in spite of RC than we will have to ammend rules every "x" amount of time anyway. Who is going to test the durability of these cells during these intervals? Who is going to get the importing rights and who will enforce price rules and how will they be ammended especially since we will be making rather large jumps in performance (and battery manufactuer pricing i suspect) all in a narrow time window for the next "x" amount of time? It just seems to me to be a lot more complicated than it gets presented and even then who is to say that the racer will be happier? Who knows? I sure don't.
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Old 11-15-2002, 11:32 AM   #1867
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Also, one other little detail, Trinity only had an exclusive deal with Panasonic, not Sanyo or Gold Peak(the producers of the new 3300mah cells). Form my perspective, as long as the cells will last, then we should use 'em. The only reason why i bought any this fall is because the SMH's I bought last year had deteriorated too much, lost too much capacity(to being little if any better than a 2400mah NiCd cell) & I knew the Sanyo HV's were holding up better, & I heard that the testing on the new GP cells were looking great. I know a lot of guys think that we HAVE to buy the newest cell just because it's out there, but as long as your packs are in good shape, it really isn't neccessary. And many of us hardly ever even run on tracks that follow ROAR rules that closely, so as long as it works, we'll use it. PLus, as a few have already mentioned, the packs of GP3300's I got for my 1/12 scale fit in my 12L3 perfectly, I did not need to do any grinding on the battery slots(& that's with the extra shrink wrap that ProMatch sent with the GP3300's, I normally don't use it). From the runs I've done with them so far, they hardly even get warm in charging or discharging, & they seem an excellent balance of good voltage & great internal resistance, plus they're cheaper than ANY of the others, so what's the big deal? You put those things together & that's usually considered a GOOD thing for us, great performance & long life for a killer price, what more do you want?
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Old 11-15-2002, 02:51 PM   #1868
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Grizzbob....If you are in the states and you want to get GP cells guess who you have to buy them from???? Trinity thats who....E has the rights to be the exclusive distributor of the GP cells. Now you can buy Powers cells from over seas from the likes of Yokomo and others...Reedy will use the cells from Yokomo Im sure so they dont put money into E's pocket everyone else in Europe will more then likely get Powers cells which they are all the same cell....but if your a state side battery matcher you are going to get your GP's from Trinity unless you buy from over seas.

Anyway this is my last post on this subject if the battery gets aproved then fine if not what ever.
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Old 11-16-2002, 06:50 AM   #1869
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Hey all....The indoor season in the south is heating up(finally)we had the Louisiana state race last weekend.....My Knife is running pretty good(slight push on turn in)....qualified 2nd. in 1/12 stock out of 15, and finished 3rd.
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Old 11-16-2002, 11:06 AM   #1870
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I dont see what the big deal with the GP cells are. And I cant see why any racer who values thier money wouldnt like em. You can buy those GP cells cheaper than any 3000's or 2400's. But they work as good or better than the Sanyo 3300's that are going for over $100 a pack. If you have to change the rule to allow the extra .3 mm, then I think that is a small price to pay, for all the benefits the GP cells have to offer.
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Old 11-16-2002, 11:13 AM   #1871
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Yeah, and remember at the end of the day R/C is supposed to be fun and it's only a hobby!!! These cells are just simply good for the consumers, more bang for our bucks!!
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Old 11-16-2002, 05:59 PM   #1872
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Default legal cells

I recently started up in 12th scale and as everyone knows I dumped some serious cash. I went to my local hobby shop and spent $280 dollars on gold peak 3300s. I find it hard to believe that a product that you can buy(very reasonably)over the counter from a known manufacturer would turn out to be unusable at ROAR events. I guess I could have waited but I had no other cells to use while the issue was solved. No sour grapes though, club racing is enough of a challenge. for now.
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Old 11-16-2002, 06:23 PM   #1873
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You'll find that from year to year this happens all the time. I'm sure they will make those cells legal soon. I'm buying them as well as are most people so I wouldn't worry about it.
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Old 11-16-2002, 09:48 PM   #1874
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Default 12th Electronics

Hey Guys,
I am getting a 12th scale within the next month and was getting ready to order the electronics for it. What specs should I look at in shopping for a servo. How fast? How much Torque? Mini? Any help appreciated.
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Old 11-17-2002, 07:04 AM   #1875
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James, I have the airtronics 94145 and like it. I really don't know what the specs are but it works great.
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