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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-07-2006, 12:21 PM   #18721
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jack the gripper work very well no problems a long as everyone is using non winter green based additives. if you want even more grip try the cs racing stuff it provides even more grip.

Ohh Mark payne thanks for the thrust bearing you sold Fab he said it made the car much more easier to drive. You could plant the 12 single down much more confidently when exiting a corner and not have it squirm out under power. I think you probably had the same result at chesterfield. Now to get me car back of Fab.
Require a large bat and some ninja tactics....
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Old 06-07-2006, 09:16 PM   #18722
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hey guys I have a question for those who might know I just picked up a ofna tire truer.I need to get a arbor for 1/12 wheels and was wondering what brand to get I hear that ofna's kind of sucks.I run a crc with crc tires if that matters at all?
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Old 06-08-2006, 06:13 AM   #18723
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Default SP12M

Looking at starting in 1/12. Is the SP12M Ahoniemi Euros spec car a good startig place for parking lot racing?
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Old 06-08-2006, 06:50 AM   #18724
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The SP12M is a good car, I would suggest going with a plain jane 12l4 though. The reason I suggest the 12l4 as the first 12th scale, is it is the most "Standard" Car, and it easiest to get parts for, and thier is a wealth of knowledge and help. The car also uses standard wheels ( the Corally does not ).
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:32 AM   #18725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoking motor..
jack the gripper work very well no problems a long as everyone is using non winter green based additives. if you want even more grip try the cs racing stuff it provides even more grip.

Ohh Mark payne thanks for the thrust bearing you sold Fab he said it made the car much more easier to drive. You could plant the 12 single down much more confidently when exiting a corner and not have it squirm out under power. I think you probably had the same result at chesterfield. Now to get me car back of Fab.
Require a large bat and some ninja tactics....
I used a modified thrust bearing from a centax clutch(nitro car) and it works great
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Old 06-08-2006, 01:23 PM   #18726
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Default Rev 4.5 Conversion

Hi Guys,

I just got a peek at this from Bruce at Speedmerchant and I must say it looks very very slick. Though it may look like just a 4-bolt pod conversion it's got a bunch of new and well thought out features. No more removing the top plate to swap motors, the top plate is machined in so the motor screw washer doesn't rub, motor offset has been adjusted for today's technology and a nice centerline mark for setting rear track width. Best of all the suspension geometry hasn't changed one bit!

Mine are on the way already, snag em' while you can!

http://www.teamspeedmerchant.com/Rev45Conversion.html

Nick
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Old 06-08-2006, 01:39 PM   #18727
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Default 12th scale for life!

Interesting notes on soaking tires, I'll have to try something like that so I dont spin out as easy on paint.
12th scale is so precision, theres so much to know, I love it!
I'm really addicted now, who knew on road could be so much fun, cant do jumps and freestyle tricks but I'm just getting so much more satisfaction from it for some reason. It's real direct and smooth and you can feel all the little adjustments you make. It's too bad the only place to race them around here is on the highway.

Anyone know of an on road raceway around northern Georgia?

I think I'm going to invest into some calipers, I like to buy something quality once unlike my brother who put all the lowest quality components in his car and is having nothing but troubles now, hah, I warned him, cheap is only cheaper in the short run.

I'm looking on ebay at digital calipers, the three popular brands look like starett, mitutoyo and brown and sharp, seem to go around 75-100, not bad assuming the quality is good and they'll last along time. Any recommendations? Thanks. Shawn
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Old 06-08-2006, 01:57 PM   #18728
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Check Harbor Freight tools. They have metal digital calipers for $20 (when they are on sale which is often). I bought one from them years ago and have never had trouble with them. The others you listed are very good quality and you can't go wrong. However, for the minimal uses we have for them in R/C racing a cheap caliper will work just as well.
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Old 06-08-2006, 03:32 PM   #18729
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I second the digital ones from Harbor Freight. I have a set and they are just fine for my needs. I mainly use them from measuring comm thickness.
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Old 06-08-2006, 04:15 PM   #18730
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I just ordered some Calipers from them and they sent me what appears to be a used 12" caliper, the sticker is peeling off, there's no extra battery, and it's dirty... We'll see how they take care of me, but this is the second time I've ordered from them and the last order was even more messed up than this one.
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Old 06-08-2006, 07:55 PM   #18731
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Hey tel, I was fun running with you this last weekend. Now you see what we have to contend with when running against P2.You are always welcome to race some 12th scale with us down here.
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Old 06-08-2006, 10:55 PM   #18732
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Is the 172mm ROAR max width for just the rear or the front also?
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Old 06-09-2006, 12:51 AM   #18733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee
Is the 172mm ROAR max width for just the rear or the front also?
It's front and rear JayBee, I went through the 1/12 ROAR tech box the past two days. Now I'm pretty sure you would never want the front the same width or worse wider then the rear....
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Old 06-09-2006, 08:23 AM   #18734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThrottleControl
I think I'm going to invest into some calipers, I like to buy something quality once unlike my brother who put all the lowest quality components in his car and is having nothing but troubles now, hah, I warned him, cheap is only cheaper in the short run.

I'm looking on ebay at digital calipers, the three popular brands look like starett, mitutoyo and brown and sharp, seem to go around 75-100, not bad assuming the quality is good and they'll last along time. Any recommendations? Thanks. Shawn

look into peps boys I got mine three years ago and they work great they rn around 18 to 25. comes with case and spare batt
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Old 06-09-2006, 08:25 AM   #18735
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarlosG.
Hey tel, I was fun running with you this last weekend. Now you see what we have to contend with when running against P2.You are always welcome to race some 12th scale with us down here.


Carlos how many are showing up for 1/12th on race days
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