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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-04-2006, 09:59 PM   #18691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ottoman
I am new to 12th scale and I have a question... I had a set of Jaco rear tires on my car. I bought a differnt brand of rear tires and I noticed that on the Jaco rim the mounting flange is flush with the edge of the tire and the new set has the mounting flange set inside the tire .120. This will narrow the rear track width of the car by almost a 1/4 inch. How will this affect the handling of the car? Do you use track width as a major tuning option?

Track width is a major tuning aid in link cars so it should be in a t-plate car as well, but I really dont see it much. We (Rice, Chicky, etc.) always set the t-bar cars to max roar width and be done with it. Any L4, RugRat or T-fource cars Ive built for others that were fast were always roar width. The Rev3 I used to run were sometimes very narrow in the back with certain set-ups from a fast friend and I tried narrowing up the CRC 3.2r I now have. Sorry-cannot say Ive ever done it with the L4 or T-fource.

I would blab on and say that if you make a narrow car work really well, but the car sucks @$$ at another track or layout-that would be the first thing I would change. Sometimes with 12th scale-just like TC's, something crazy will work one time, but usually not be a part of your standard set-up.
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Old 06-04-2006, 11:21 PM   #18692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ottoman
I am new to 12th scale and I have a question... I had a set of Jaco rear tires on my car. I bought a differnt brand of rear tires and I noticed that on the Jaco rim the mounting flange is flush with the edge of the tire and the new set has the mounting flange set inside the tire .120. This will narrow the rear track width of the car by almost a 1/4 inch. How will this affect the handling of the car? Do you use track width as a major tuning option?
Track definately affects handling dramatically. Before you even start playing with track width, its really important that your wheel spacing is even from the centerline of the car. Uneven wheel spacing can make your car feel as though it is tweaked. Also, when adjusting track width, check your endpoints afterward. The turning radiuses can change unevenly if the spacing of the rear tires changes relative to one another.

A wider track width will transfer less weight laterally at the back of the car. Widening up the car can free it up. Conversley, a narrower track width will transfer more weight laterally and make the car be pushier. Basically, the farther away from the chassis centerline the tire is, the less leverage the chassis has on the outside tire when it is cornering, thus pushing down on it less.

You can also add shims to the front of the car as a tuning option. A wider track at the front will make the car be more stable and pushy, a narrower track will make the car more agressive and steer more.
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Old 06-04-2006, 11:24 PM   #18693
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Thanks... thats what I was looking for
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Old 06-04-2006, 11:57 PM   #18694
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eforer - Nice website! Did you do the album cover for Diana Krall and the Strokes?
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Old 06-05-2006, 12:24 AM   #18695
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Samples and rejects are on my website. Any of my stuff that has aired/been published/released I don't own the rights to and can't put online. Thats all older work from when I was at RISD a few years ago.
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Old 06-05-2006, 12:25 AM   #18696
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The music is also my old band's last ep which was an extremely limited and unsucessful release. (At least I own the rights to it!)
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Old 06-05-2006, 05:48 AM   #18697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capelracer
Can anyone enlighten me as to what model RC12L this is??
I'm looking at buying it, but the seller doesn't know what it is.
Cheers...
RC12 LW
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Old 06-05-2006, 05:53 AM   #18698
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Hey guys Slapmaster website is down, I was trying to find pics of the thrust beraring saver (not sure what it is called) or if Rayhuang can tell me if it is already on the car, I have your old rev. 3 from Neil Cayhill.
Thanks Tim
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Old 06-05-2006, 05:58 AM   #18699
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Check out Mark Payne's website, he has a photo of it on there.
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:19 AM   #18700
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Mine dont look like that, But it dont look like the one that comes with a 12l4 either. It is a solid piece of alluminum, mabey that is what comes on a speedmerchant? Mabey Ray can enlighten me. Does anyone know how to get one from slapmaster as his website is down.
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Old 06-05-2006, 06:17 PM   #18701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOSIMANJRXS
Hey guys Slapmaster website is down, I was trying to find pics of the thrust beraring saver (not sure what it is called) or if Rayhuang can tell me if it is already on the car, I have your old rev. 3 from Neil Cayhill.
Thanks Tim

That car did not have the thrust assemby. I canot stress enough how awesome a 12th scale diff is by reducing the runout on the diff rings (easily taken care of with facing the diff rings) and very little lube on the balls only, no pre lubing the rings or the holes in the spur gear. Last-ceramic diff balls are awesome for stock and 19t.


Also-this discussion was hot and heavy last year (thrust washers) and someone mentioned how to piece one together yourself to "save" money. of course I am willing to pay Slapmaster to do it so I dont pay $5 to every purveyor in the hardware business buying one or two $2.00 pieces at a time!!
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Old 06-05-2006, 10:18 PM   #18702
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Where could you buy a thrust bearing diff?

Aaron
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Old 06-05-2006, 11:13 PM   #18703
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This is a pic of the one Slapmaster sells

Last edited by ottoman; 08-12-2008 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 06-06-2006, 05:53 AM   #18704
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Thanks for the info ray. When you say facing I assume you mean to sand the diff rings on some sandpaper to make sure they are perfectly flat. Do you use toothpaste to cut in the ceramic balls?

Also wanted to share with you guys some blocks I made out of alluminum to balance the car from side to side
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Old 06-06-2006, 08:00 AM   #18705
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You can also buy similar items (balancers) at a Home Depot or Lowes or someplace like that. They are used for woodworking and called dowel centers. They come in various diameters. I happened to have a a set laying around and found they work well for this application.
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